chucK

Cool report Russ. Thanks!

Hey fellow Seattle sprayers! Head out to the UW Rock right now! I am going there. It is the thing to do!

Newbies are a lot less likely to know that downclimbing is way more difficult than going up.

"Hepped " up on goofballs is a Simpson's quote. You fierce individualists will be chagrined to note that you are way behind Simpson's geeks in the internet discussion of this colloquialism. Check groups.google.com. Search "hepped goofballs". If you also add "chucK" to your search you will find it used in a climbing newsgroup . How's that for chestbeating?

quote: Originally posted by trask: help me, that Flash dude is stalking me. Trassk dude here's what you do...make yourself scarce. Don't post for like a week or two. That'll throw him/her off of the scent. Try it.

Nice job Lammy. Nice report too. I think you spelled Gendarme wrong a couple of times though . Why did the Stuart Glacier hurt your ankles? Too steep, torqueing 'em sideways?

quote: Originally posted by fern: quote:Originally posted by chucK:

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: DaveW, I was only implying changing the massive amounts of webbing to chains, using the existing bolts and hangers. The best example is the belay at the top of the 10.b of Urban Bypass. While at times I like the high visibility of the colorful webbings so I can see where I'm trying to get to, I'd still prefer the chains and bolts for overall disguise,safety and piece-of-mind. That's what DaveW was talking about. Changing all the stations to that like the one on top of Urban Bypass.

quote: Originally posted by ryland moore: Chestbeating to me is more on an "I'm better than you" approach. Or Look what I can do and you can't mentality. You mean like your 2600 word diatribe against the idiots who only climbed up the south side of hood then had the gall to make phone calls? quote: I guess I think there are many types of Chestbeating, I just disagree with the type that belittles others. I think if you read the board a bit longer you will realize that "chestbeating" basically refers to presenting to others a climb that you did. What you are referring to as chestbeating is just some strawman argument you brewed up inside your head without regard to reality and has nothing to do with the subject. Cleophus did not put anybody down. You put him down more like it. I agree that belittling others is not very cool. But you will find yourself doing it again. It's not easy to post very much to this board without belittling someone. [ 09-27-2002, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

There are people who "chestbeat" on this site by sending out trip reports. Telling their "pals" about their latest adventure. Most people don't really give a shit, some do. Whatever. The more "chestbeater" trip reports posted the better, I say. If it's something of interest (like a route I wanna do, like a route I did, like the current snow conditions, like if I ever wanna climb with that guy, like if it's a colorful story that eases my climbing jones, etc...) that's great. If not. I don't read it. There are other people so caught up in worrying about being a chestbeater it makes me puke. People so worried that people will know that someone is better than them. These types will never post anything to expose the exact level of their climbing. Fine. If you're that insecure and it prevents you from "chestbeating", that's your business. But when you get obnoxious because someone else steps up to show their warts, that's lame. Someone else can do it (I mean send out a report here). You cannot. You haven't the guts, so you decide to diss it. Worm.

OK, how about this one??? Hey guys! I am doing a project for my stats class and need to due a survey. Hear is my questions. How many check marks can you boast from these books? 1. nelson-potterfield, vol 1 2. n-p vol 2 3. Kearney book Please respond soon because I need a good grade.

How ironic [ 09-27-2002, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: Ok I am sure the authors of the books have done more than any of us, but how many check marks can you boast? Vol 1: Vol 2: Kearney: OK for you that don't have the books, here's links to the lists in question: vol 1 vol 2 Wayne, do you think you could type in the route list for Kearney's book please? Put me down for 18 in vol 1, 7 in vol 2 part I, 19 in the sport/crag section of vol 2. There.

Spent the last couple of fine days out just East of the crest on an annual backpack with a couple of old high-school buddies. Climbed Summmit Chief in the process. It's a very prominent peak in the area, though I don't seem to hear much about it. Picked 'em up at the airport and headed straight for the hills. After a stop in Factoria for and , we made it to Cooper Lake in a little more than a shortcase. Crack o' noon-thirty we headed out to a little lake called Escondido (one dictionary translates this as "lurker"). Beckey says it's the closest way to Summit Chief from the road. The trail was dusty with lots of horseshit, but the lake was OK. Next day was some spectacular shit. Once we 'schwacked out the the Escondido hole we got on some excellent airy ridge running, with great views all around. There's been a fire there some years back and the stark burnt snags rising out the turning foliage was kinda cool. Out across the traverse, Summit Chief was pretty imposing, and it never appeared to get much closer. The easiest way up appears to be over some big snowfields, but without crampons, axe or boots, I skirted the snow on the left on some really fun, solid and featured rock. Many hundreds of feet of great scrambling. A couple of towers needed to be downclimbed (and one needed to be retreated from and skirted) which got pretty nervy but overall big for the quality of the rock and exhillarating scrambling. Two of us summitted maybe a few minutes past our second or third turnaround time. We left the third somewhere down low on the ridge. But we were pretty sure he was still alive. As every trip report and summit register entry says, "great views, wonderful day to be in the mountains, blah blah blah". Many more miles of downclimbing, and ridge-running in the crisp fall air. Hang out at the tarns. Then, finally an unpleasant vertical 'schwack down to the lake. We staggered out of the bush with the party intact in the failing dusk. The next day we found a trail that would have eliminated the bushwhacking.

quote: Originally posted by tomrogers: Pitch 11: to top, straight forward. We didn't do. Tom, Too bad you didn't get to that last pitch. It's incredible! The mark of a fine classic is how it just keeps getting better. You must get back there, if only to tick the summit pitch.

Sorry, but your request must first be routed through Veggiebelay (the site irony cop) before the site at large can consider it.

I thought that's what bones were for. What the hell is a midsole?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: He lost the nail but not the toe. Speaking of necessities, novelties, and plain uselessness, where do toenails fall in this categorization? Seems like all they do is get in the way and hurt in rock shoes and boots etc. Is there something you can paint your toe with after a nail falls off so another one will not replace it?

quote: Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by chucK: Scott, In reference to the picture you linked to, there is now at least one, I think two, bolts between the photographer and the bolt you have just clipped. really chuck??? i dont rememeber clipping one until i started to traverse....who knows i routinly miss obvious bolts... It would make sense you woulda missed 'em, 'cause there's no bolts in the groove. They're all to the left of it. Like Tom's "Great summary of the route" says, "Climb left or directly to the first bolt. Do not get sucked into the groove proper". Of course, if you go left, to the bolt (first one's probably less than 15' from the belay bolts) you will be officially on Safe Sex, not on Dreamer, 'cause Dreamer goes up the groove without the bolts. Am I making any sense?

Scott, In reference to the picture you linked to, there is now at least one, I think two, bolts between the photographer and the bolt you have just clipped.

Just look at Mattp's topo. He's usually quite accurate at getting the correct bolt count. According to Matt the route Dreamer goes right up that groove. The line of bolts just left of the groove is "Safe Sex". [ 09-26-2002, 03:24 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

I think Renton was obscured by Chimney Rock.

Norman, So why is a cellphone convo different than if both people in the coversation are present? What about talking to someone on the bus? Surely you have sat on the bus when there are two people who actually know each other are sitting together and talking. Everyone else on the bus gets treated to enforced eavesdropping (unless they have a personal music device). I know it is uncomfortable to be forced to listen in on someone else's conversation. Would you advocate no talking on the bus, or perhaps just talking allowed only if both conversants are present? What about talking in a restaurant? I recently heard about some restaurant that banned cellphones. I know most people have this love/hate or just hate/hate thing with cells and say, "f*ck yeah, that restaurant is cool". But you should ask yourself...why is it OK for people to talk in restaurants ONLY IF they're both there? I think it comes from discomfort with new phenomena. People will get used to these conversations with ghosts just like they got used to rock n' roll, microwaves, friends, and body piercings. I still think you should MIND YOUR OWN BUSINESS. I undertand that having to endure someone else's pea-brained yabber is something one does not want to do while on a lovely mountain peak (or zoning on a bus) but think of the bright side of cell phones...at least you don't have to listen to BOTH of the babbling morons!

Hey Ryland, I assume this is not the published version. Did they make you cut out all that extraneous cell-phone-whining BS? You seem to make a good point about helping the less experienced so noone gets killed, but what is the deal with, quote: I hope that other, more experienced climbers will politely ask the next person they see on a cell phone calling to brag from the summit,” Would you mind waiting to do that on your own time in the parking lot and not on mine up here?” It's their mountain too. Cell-phone talking rights are not just allocated to the "experienced". What about people talking to their buddies right next to them? Saying “Man, what an awesome line!” or, “Yeah, could you believe the conditions we had in the Couloir?” Would that be OK because they didn't need to use a newfangled gadget? I think that in most of your article you come off as a psuedo-self-deprecating elitist. You seem to believe your motives for being on Mt. Hood are correct and someone else's perceived motives are unacceptable. Their motives should make no difference to you. Who cares if they're not in it for the long run? It's NONE OF YOUR GODDAMNED BUSINESS!! You sound like the lameshits who grouse about people with North Face gear who don't climb. Someone's trying to break into their elite "club" without paying the proper dues. Give me a break . There's always someone more experienced. In fact, you namedropped a bunch of them in your article. There's always someone up there with different motives than yours. Are they justified in griping about you like you gripe about those who want to make a call from the top of the mountain? In closing, you write: quote: On the ride back to Eugene, Gabe, Graham, and I didn't talk about the summit scene on Hood. Maybe we wanted to erase it from memory, lest it detract from the incredible experience we had had during the ascent. ...or perhaps maaaybeee.... they didn't obsess over a bunch of people enjoying themselves at the top of a notoriously crowded mountain!!. Just a thought. I can understand how working hard on a big essay like you did can start screwing with your brain and get you thinking some extreme stuff (look at me in this flame ). You're probably not like that in real life. But in your essay you come off as one crotchety f*ck for being only 26 years old! I'd hate to see you at 40! Cheers Ry. You did write that you appreciate dissent.