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Necro's posts usually had a point. But he went too far abusing people once too often I think, but I think his humor far surpassed "eat balls asseyes". All Trask did was abuse people with mindless vulgarity. "Provocative" , yeah right. How provocative is a fucking random bad word machine. That's what Trask's posts were. Sure he was funny sometime, but I'll bet he drove a lot of people away. Read what another banned kamp member had to say about Trask. I agree with him. Someone said that, "Trask was CC.com". If so, that sucks. I hope CC.com is moving away from being, the Trask site. Naughty words are funny, but they get old pretty quickly.

Thanks man. You're a prince.

Help out an old guy clueless on the lingo here. What's "fake n' bake" mean?

Ooooo , sounds like a real gem. Not me. I don't moderate Spray. But I probably would have.

Yep. Mindless off-topic distractions are being discouraged outside of the spray forum. Also, pointless vulgarity and abusiveness are being discouraged even within spray. So if you're going to be a Dick at least have a point.

Cracked, Your post makes no sense. I like Lance's posts. What do they have to do with sport climbing or chipping or whatever you are yammering about?

1) Don't place it, enjoy your "style" while you crater

Because sometimes a short fall is your primary concern, and there's no other possibilities for better gear. If the gear self-cleans it won't be causing rope drag anymore. Understand?

Somtimes it's worth the rope drag to set a crappy piece that'll probably hold a very short fall. Y'know, like those situations when you've got one chossy move to make it to easier ground and/or better pro. Usually those pieces don't even give you too much ropedrag either since they eventually self-clean. But I certainly wouldn't carry around a fragile cam that could only be used in such a situation.

me too

the idea is for pro to be back up.. as long as you don't PLAN on falling on it you should be fine. I would use it as long as it looks good. Sorry for saying this but, completely idiotic statement above. If you don't plan on falling (so much so that you don't need gear that works) then you don't need all those cumbersome ropes and gear. Gear is to protect you if you fall. If you don't trust it, then it's worse than worthless. It's extra weight.

People who climb hard. Whenever falling is a very real possibility, I consider that to be climbing hard.

Combination cow-slaughtering and dressing and MRI machine!

Fox News has uncovered the startling fact that both Democratic candidates are RICH!!!! and they live in big mansions too!!! link

The time I climbed Diedre was with a party of three. I led up to the last belay in the dihedral (next pitch gets you to the trees), and realized I really needed to pee! We were moving well so there wasn't anybody backed up behind us, but there were quite a few parties making their way up the route, so I didn't wanna just unload a quart right down the dihedral . So when the second guy comes up I tell him to leave the third down below while he belays me to the top, "it's an EMERGENCY!!!" . So I'm racing up the last pitch and it's real easy, so I'm not putting in any pro. Then about 50 feet out I start thinking maybe I should put something in, but now the crack's closed up. I get to that last move below the roots with no pro between me and the belay. One friction move to get to the pin. Fear of a gigantic fall weighting my brain, pressure ready to explode in my bladder. What a predicament! I made it. Watered those trees good and long!

Investigative report on KIRO TV that finds MANY more CJD (human variant of BSE) than have been otherwise reported. Many misclassified as strokes and Alzheimers. The report looked at WA and found many more cases than have been thought. It states that WA has a higher incidence than everywhere else, but I think that might not be correct because everywhere else has not undergone this upgraded scrutiny. What probably is true is that CJD is much more prevalent than the doctors and govt. are telling us. link

i.e. climbs at Index that are rated like they were at Squamish

After pulling that shit on Zoom earlier in the morning, well, the getting all pumped out part, and actually falling, but not 60 feet, I was leading Breakfast of Champions. For those not familiar, it is a short, straightforward, locker-handjam pitch, but it does get tiring. I was just below the spot where you can move up into the hole where the loose block used to be, but was so pumped I couldn't quite pull the move. I tried then slumped back down to my tiring "stance". Unfortunately, when I was moving back down, my foot caught a loop of rope and I was now standing on a bight. My strength was rapidly leaving. I was past the point of being able to pull a cam-trigger, and I was fearfully contemplating the rope catching my foot, flipping me over, and smacking my head into the wall. Almost...peeling off, then for some reason I moved my knee left and it stuck against a crack for a very lucky knee bar! That was all I needed to rest my arms enough to pull the move. Phew! Got lucky on that one.

Yeah right. You're not really a chick. Do a search on "Amber".

Scott, Nice pics. That's my cordelette damnit! Why you little.... Though he could have phrased it more tactfully, Greg has a point in that noone is going to be as enamored of your child as you are. I would normally advise restraining yourself and posting only the highlights not more than once a week or so; HOWEVER, in this case it's pissing off the biggest asshole on this board, so I say go for twice a day!

The bolts were backed up by at least one 3/8"er last summer by Clint Cummins. Do a search for it on this site. Here it is. If those guys wanna bivy on top, they could just haul it up there the easy way one day and cache it, then climb Liberty Crack the next and hang out and bask in their triumph (although it wouldn't be that triumphant because they wouldn't have to carry all their stuff on the climb)

I think most people don't care that much exactly where it's gonna be, so I don't think we're really taking much away from the "peeps" with the "decide the week before" deal. That way people know where it's gonna be and can plan. If there's a place you really like, you can always post about it in a thread to get people who actually attend to discuss it.

There's a topo of sorts here on robert_m's page . I think Clean Break is also in the 2nd edition Vol II Nelson-Potterfield guide.

Your shoes could be too tight. Note that you said one of your pairs was not too bad, but they were a little big. If you've got shoes where your toes are hammered over you are obviously going to hate cramming those things in cracks. My advice: shoes that let your toes lie flat.

So with this nice weather I was driving around town and noticed big ol' Baker up there!!! How hard is it to ski Baker (summit) the easiest way? Could a BC gumby like me (ample lift skiing, and hiking) summit Baker and ski off pretty easily? Would I have to know what I'm doing? What if I found someone who knew what she was doing, is there much new skills over slogging and downhill skiing that are necessary to do this? Thanks in advance for your substantiative replies!