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Sam Boyce

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Everything posted by Sam Boyce

  1. Trip: Johannesburg - “Flight of the Bumblebee” FA of the sit start to the NE Buttress of J Berg TD 5.9+R 1500’ Trip Date: 08/27/2022 Trip Report: This weekend, Kyle and I climbed the sit start to the NE buttress of J-Berg. We ended up rappelling due to injury after linking into the ‘57 route on the NE buttress. We added about 1500’ of steep and challenging climbing. The sit start climbs a tower with a bit of a distinct summit, so I don’t feel too bad claiming an FA. Becky likely wouldn’t have given us credit for anything, so judge it how you will. If linked to the summit, it would likely be one of the biggest monolithic climbs anywhere. TD+… ED…? Only one way to find out. This is likely a one and done for me, when we topped out the lower buttress I thought to myself “the climb we did so no one else had to”, but rapping where we did leaves the door open for at least one suitor to up the ante. The lower buttress in moody, morning fog We had a late start sat morning. The uncertain weather had us sleeping in and waiting. Lani and I had attempted the line a couple years ago and ultimately bailed because the climbing looked like it was going to be far more time consuming than our 2 day itinerary would have allowed. This time around, kyle and I packed a couple taco portaledges in case we had to bivy on the steeper lower wall. The approach involves a good bit of blueberry and devils club laybacking in high exposure. We came prepared this time and had leather garden gloves to grab the clubs… Kyle on the approach The approach is a bit of foreshadowing for what to expect on the rest of the buttress, but simply steeper… The first pitch was a long moss gully with difficulties that felt about like 5.7. For the second pitch, we discovered a sick splitter hand crack. Too short and too easy… Starting up the second pitch The third pitch was ledgy and mossy hand crack steps that fed into the main gully/corner that defines the route. This was the previous high point. starting up the third pitch The fourth pitch is what intimidated Lani and I off the route before. Steep, mossy overlapping roofs and steep corners loom above. This time around we were prepared to aid if needed and had a good bit of iron and a real hammer. We didn’t end up using the ladders and battled the moss with a nut tool and clawed our way up the slightly overhanging corner past a roof to a sloping ledge. We decided to start hauling the leaders pack at this point and ended up needing to tag the iron up for this belay. Kyle on the traverse above the P4 roof pitch 5 was more of the same, but with a chimney. Pulling through the chimney made me happy about the decision to haul packs. I ended up climbing a steep crack on the face to diverge from the main corner. To make faster upward progress, Kyle ended up climbing the thorn bush corner. He ended up unintentionally releasing about a ton of gravel when he stepped in the wrong spot. That reinforced the decision to take the spicy looking face. We ended up setting up a bivy at the top of this pitch. Glad to have the tacos as it was completely hanging. heading into the chimney on P5 kyle following the choss corner at the end of P5 chilling at the bivy in a super taco looking up at the upper corner from the bivy The next few pitches were actually pretty fun. Steep face and corner climbing on surprisingly solid rock. starting up P7. 5.7R up to the roof. kyle following the roof at the top of P7 The 8th pitch was the start to the sting in the tail. We climbed a runout face to the right of the corner. This took us up to the edge of the wall. The wall pinched off to a blunt, knife edge arete. A 5.8 downclimbing traverse into a rock scar was probably the most dangerous point on the climb. The last piece was maybe about 60 ft away and around the arete. A fall would likely chop the rope along the arete. Strong R. The rock scar was overhanging 5.9 stemming on less than ideal rock but with good gear. climbing up near the arete on pitch 8 kyle finishing up pitch 8 Once on the prow of the wall we had a few options. None of them looked good. The chimneys above looked truly awful, so we opted to traverse the arete to the right and found a mossy ramp that took us out onto the NW face. I belayed short for communication and to help make decisions. The next pitch was bleak, dead vertical terrain everywhere and so much munge. We ended up making a huge S shaped traversing pitch to work our way up moss covered 5.8 sketch blocks. We named this pitch “Phil’s Traverse” as we were intending on calling the route “the land of confusion”. The sting in the tail continues… kyle following the zag on Phil’s Traverse A long pitch of overhanging 5.7 tree climbing spat us out on a decent ledge where we transitioned out of rock shoes to prepare for the Forrest. I was nearing the end of the rope on a classic J-Berg tree pitch and grabbed a tuft of moss, as you do. This particular tuft was a bees nest. I felt stinging and saw a few on my right hand and about 100 bees shot out of the hole, dead set on face fucking me off the mountain. I let go in a knee jerk reaction and went for a slow motion, sports action highlight style whipper. I kind of wish I had a video camera on as it had to have been funny to watch. I ended up grabbing, and swinging off a tree on the way down, making a single rotation tomahawk and falling onto my feet as the rope caught me. Glad I took a lead belay. I ended up rolling my ankle and was otherwise unscathed. I belayed Kyle up and we weighed our options. We decided to find a place to bivy and wait until the morning to make any decisions. We ended up climbing up another 300’ of forest munge to the top of a heather slope. The top of the slope was a comfy knoll that marked the summit of the lower tower, and an awesome bivy! This was our summit and the first point where it was obvious we had linked into the ‘57 line. kyle rapping a steep section of the wall Waking up, my outlook was pretty grim. I could barely hobble around, so we decided to descend our route. I couldn’t really put weight on my ankle so I ended up glissading the last 100’ of 35 degree heather. Once back at the tree line we began rapping. We ended up rappelling about 1800’. Primarily rapping on trees and using an escaper we were able to get away with only leaving a couple gear anchors along the way. Traversing the talus back to the car was kind of miserable, but manageable. My ankle is starting to feel better already, crossing my fingers for a minor sprain. For the aspiring munge warrior, here’s pitch notes P1 5.7 180’ head up moss gully on the left to a big ledge with trees. P2 5.7+ 180’ traverse to left edge of ledge. Head up good hand crack. Traverse slab to the right and climb a nice finger crack up to a large ledge on the ridge crest. P3 5.8 150’ head up into the large mossy corner. Climb up to a distinct roof with hands to fists gear for anchor. P4 5.9 100’ continue up the corner. Mossy crack climbing leads to a rightward roof traverse. Pull past the roof onto the large sloping ledge. Two beaks in place for anchor P5 5.9 100’ continue up main corner on clean slab. Past a short chimney and a crack on the right face (5.9+). Belay at uncomfortable stance below a striped roof in a good crack in the main corner. P6 5.9+ 85’ continue up main corner past a small roof (crux) to an alcove at the base of the massive looming roof above. #4 critical for belay. P7 5.9+ 70’ climb the face to the right of the corner (5.7R). Up past an off width section to a section of steep crack/stemming on good rock. Belay in a cave. P8 5.9+ 160’ traverse out of the cave. Climb the face on the right up to a knife edge arete (5.8R). Traverse the slab rightward into a steep rock star (5.9+ spicy). Continue up past low angle broken terrain. Belay by a bush on a small ledge. P9 5.7 60’ head up and around the arete to the right. Traverse over on mossy ledges and build an anchor P10 5.8R 100’ “Phil’s traverse” traverse right. Up mossy blocks to trees. Traverse back left to a big tree for a belay. Heinous drag. P11 5.7 150’ climb the belay tree. Then continue up until rope drag stops you. P12 5.6 200’ trees up to the ridge crest to join ne butt route. Gear Notes: Double Rack .2 - 1 Singles 2 - 4 no nuts placed. Pins in place. Approach Notes: Park at cascade pass. Traverse talus to the base of the “munge cone”. Traverse to the right up steep ferns. Gain a steep ramp that cuts up and left on 4th class devils clubs. Mandatory devils club laybacking. We brought leather gloves for this. Traverse the ledge to an exposed perch by a steep gully.
  2. Planned iten was to bivy on the wall the first night, then climb up to the bivy at the snow arete high on route the second night. So we went relatively light on water. No water on route. We carried 5 liters total. We tagged the leaders pack through some of the harder pitches when it looked like we could find anchors within 100’. Followers pack was likely sub 30 pounds. Stopping on the route where we did meant a night/morning without water which ended up being not that bad because there is water near the base.
  3. Didn’t see anything. I did the ‘51 route back in 2019 with my friend Parker. We found half of a carbon black prophet (the head half) that had been there for many years… always wondered who’s it was. I think Parker still has it.
  4. A high level of tolerance and stupidity mixed in with a short term memory are staples for the cascades climber.
  5. Trip: Whatcom Peak - “Castle in the Sky” FA of the South Buttress of Whatcom 5.10b TD Trip Date: 08/06/2022 Trip Report: Yeeehaw! What a weather window it’s been! From Aug 5-7th Lani and I climbed the first ascent of the south buttress of Whatcom. This route came as a suggestion from Wayne. Thanks! It was excellent climbing on great rock in the most perfect of settings. I would say it’s one of the finer alpine routes I’ve had the pleasure of climbing in the cascades! We would highly recommend the route! There is certainly some choss and some runout but it is the pickets. I have to start work today so a hasty trip report will have to do. Here’s a link to the report I wrote up. Sorry for the forced click through, I’m rolling out the door and don’t have time to format photos for CC. Thanks for the stoke y’all! Go get it while the gettins still there! https://www.theclimbingguides.com/post/castle-in-the-sky-first-ascent-of-the-south-buttress-of-whatcom-peak-iv-5-10b-td Gear Notes: Single rack .1-3 doubles .2-1 full set of nuts. Optional #2 and 3 KB’s. Single 60M rope Approach Notes: We took easy peak to the imperfect impasse.
  6. Hopefully this helps. The lower part and traverse pitch are compressed at that angle so it’s probably not exact, but this should show the upper part well. We climbed that giant cleft at the top of the wall for 2 long pitches and were surprised not to find loose rock. It ended up being a lowish angle (low fifth) water polished slot canyon.
  7. Photo dump. These are kind of in order (reverse order that is, starting at the top and working down to the bottom)
  8. Here are some high res photos that We got on Joe’s camera. I drew in our route line and put dots at all of the belays.
  9. Trip: Spectre Peak - “Spirited Away” FA of the S Ridge of Spectre Peak 2000’ 5.8 Trip Date: 07/26/2022 Trip Report: Joe Manning and I just got out of the Northern Pickets. We did the first ascent of the South Ridge of Spectre Peak. We had excellent weather and were out for 4 days. I’m having trouble loading any photos from my phone on here so this will be super brief. For extensive photos and whatnot check out my trip report on our blog… https://www.theclimbingguides.com/post/spirited-away-first-ascent-of-the-south-ridge-of-spectre-peak-2000-5-8 Gear Notes: Singles .1-2 doubles .3-1 light rack of nuts and optional 3. 40-50ft of cord and a single 60M rope. Approach Notes: Easy peak to improbable impasse to perfect pass to challenger col to phantom to pickle pass.
  10. Trip: West Fury - Mongo Ridge 5.9 ED1 (second ascent of the Pole of Remotenesses) Trip Date: 07/14/2022 Trip Report: Hello all, Lani and I got out of the pickets a few days ago. We repeated Mongo Ridge and got the second ascent of the pole of remoteness. Lani wrote a solid trip report on our blog with tons of photos and more beta which is linked below. For now here are some important cliff notes on the route… https://www.theclimbingguides.com/post/mongo-ridge-and-the-pole-of-remoteness-7-09-2022-7-14-2022 1- we did not do the rooster comb. This feature is awesome looking and deserving of being climbed if you have the time. The bypass doesn’t seem to detract from the aesthetic of the line too much, you are about 100-150’ from the roosters comb the whole way as you traverse the south face. 2- we did not encounter any 5.10 terrain. After seeing photos from Wayne’s trip we climbed slightly different terrain than he did on tower 3. 3- everyone seems concerned with the commitment grades thrown at this thing. I would argue that an American commitment grade makes little sense on a climb like this. I would like to propose Mongo as the benchmark ED1 for the cascades. It is a considerable step up in length, commitment and general alpine involvement over NE butt of slesse, and I’ve always understood that climb as the benchmark TD. There was 3500’ of climbing done in 30 pitches without any simuling. we chose not to simul as there really wasn’t enough solid gear to make it feel like we weren’t just soloing. 4- this was my first technical climb in the pickets, so I don’t have much to compare it to but I felt the rock was pretty damn good and the route was fucking awesome. The route was similar in nature to the west arete, but longer and with better rock, and almost no overhead hazard. I would highly recommend the route. 5- the sit start to the ridge is a logical evolution of the route. For those interested, it looked improbable to gain the lower ridge anywhere other than toe. This would ultimately add about 1200’ to the climb. Once seasonal snow is gone, it may be easier to trudge up the depths of goddell creek… Gear Notes: Single rack .1-2, doubles .3-.75 Approach Notes: Long
  11. Trip: North Norwegian Buttress - Jötnar VI 5.9 A3 Trip Date: 08/01/2020 Trip Report: Whaddup maggots. The crew of vagrants and miscreants just got down yesterday from north Norwegian round 2. We completed our line to the top of the buttress. We spent 1 day fixing back to the high point then 6 days on the wall climbing in capsule style to complete the route. We are naming the line “Jötnar”, the race of god-like giants in Norse mythology. We unofficially started calling the Norwegian cirque Jötunheim, “the realm of the giants”. While only having one line up there might not give us “authority” to name something, I’m enamored with the zone and like the name, and no one else has to call it that... anywho, here’s a brief report of our experience, hopefully this inspires someone to follow in our footsteps, as it’s an incredible route. In June, we made our first foray onto the wall and found soggy conditions as our route runs through a water streak for a good portion of the lower buttress. Poor weather lead to poor conditions, if you read my previous trip report, you’ll remember we did not get far. In 4 days of climbing we completed about 700’ of the line. We left gear stashed with the intent on returning. Our window of time off about 3 weeks away. Prep for the route started a few days before our departure date. I headed over to kyle’s studio (For his gear business “high mountain gear and repair”) in Ballard to make some various things. One of those being an inflatable big wall hammock that we had been discussing in recent weeks. Kyle would test it out on this wall, likely the secret weapon for big wall alpine routes in the cascades. Kyle came up with the name “Taco” as a mockery of conventional portaledges. After making various things for the wall we set out on our own errands the next day then reconvened to shuttle a load up to lake serene. Fetching water was considerably easier than last time, the moat had opened enough to walk inside, being a whiteout day we decided it was safe enough to brave for 15 min to get water (better than hiking back to the lake!!) After unwrapping our gear stash we discovered a snafflehound gnawed on a rope! The backup lead line nonetheless. Another rope was needed, the volume of rope was becoming absurd. We told Lani to pick one up on her way down from Bellingham. Logistics here got weird. Kyle had commitments in the form of a bike packing trip during the start of the window we had to climb. So when Lani and I started climbing we would have to leave lines fixed to the ground for Kyle to use to join us two days into the climb! On the first day we got a ride to the trailhead early morning and moved with motivation all Day to fix lines the the high point on our route. The line climbed substantially better because of the cleaning we were able to do previously. Fixing high on the wall we descended to the base that evening to sleep on the ground and prep the load to haul. We woke up early again and started the manual labor. Moving faster that expected we were able to haul to the high point and get camp set up around mid afternoon. Plenty of time to start up new terrain. Lani started up the next pitch which would prove the steepest on route. She got about halfway up the pitch before deciding it was time for dinner. On day 3 she headed up the pitch and pulled through the massive steep band that blocked our view of the upper buttress. This would prove to be the only pitch that requires a fixed line for descent. I took over the lead on the next pitch and found cool expanding beak cracks that lead up to a surprise! We pulled into a band of bulletproof skagit gneiss that would run the whole middle part of the route, immaculate stone. I climbed up into a massive right facing corner and up an amazing #2 crack through the second massive roof on the route “the fang” as we had pre named it. Continuing up an easy flare I found a good stance at the base of a large slab. Lani was still feeling mega tired from the steep lead and told me to keep going, I quested upwards on the slab utilizing a mixture of hooks and rivets to reach a dike that proved discouragingly shitty. The dike however led to a good flake that rapidly turned not so good, the whole corner was a Jenga stack. Being on lead I reluctantly bat hooked the face around the choss. These bat hooks could maybe be avoided post cleaning, still chossy and expando in there though. I eventually put a bolt in to reach far and tension to the next small corner, which proved to be cruiser C1 to a good stance for a belay, post dirt removal this would likely be sweet 5.9-10. Here I called off belay while placing the anchor bolts and Lani zipped down to camp to start dinner. Meanwhile Kyle had started up the wall hauling the second half of the load solo, having to haul twice he only got to the bivy at pitch 3 and would camp here. Day 4 started with shenanigans to situate the ropes where they needed to be in order to fix higher. After we were able to snag an independent rope Lani and I again began the commute up the fixed lines to push the line higher while Kyle hailed up to camp. From the high point, Lani led up Inobvious but moderate aid to the crest of “the dude”. The biggest roof on north Norwegian, and an intimidating mega overhang. Incipient and creative low angle A3 led up and left under the roof and around the bushy corner to a small ledge. Reaching this ledge we figured we were far enough up to move camp, and thus Lani went down to assist Kyle in starting to haul while I started soloing the next pitch to the intended next camp. About halfway up my pitch I got a call saying there were technical difficulties at camp, we decided to reestablish camp and fix to the top my pitch. Day 5 would start super early with the big move. Myself and Lani would double counterbalance sky haul the pigs while Kyle cleaned the line below and brought up fixed lines. A few hours of hot manual labor brought us to the high point ledge. A grassy inset which seemed suboptimal for two portaledges, we spotted a good spot left of the buttress crest and concocted a creative plan to swing the bags over. I free climbed up to the top of a flake and put a good bolt in and lowered down (clipping the haul line to the bolt) to the intended spot. I drilled while Kyle and Lani prepped the bags. Once ready I took tight on the haul line with my gri gri and they kicked the bags over top rope style to me where I lowered them in place and docked them at the anchor. Shenanigans. After setting camp up I hugged up to my high point on the pitch and continued my lead. “The head wall” proved to be wicked exposed but I had to fight the features pulling us left into the chossy chasm and drill my way to a stunning corner on the buttress crest. Kyle and Lani came up to join me and Kyle started up the next pitch. Moderate free and aid led up through a tree to a roof. An inobvious ramp cut out left through some chossy bush. Kyle bulldozed his way up eventually running out of patience and drilling around some dangerous choss. Running low on daylight Kyle threw in a belay and called it a day. Day 6 started with a poor decision, only one gallon of water came up the wall... after jugging we were already dehydrated but didn’t think too much of it. We started on the e face and got good afternoon shade but the upper part of the route climbs the crest of the se ridge, and gets blazing sun all day. I got the the high point first and in the spirit of decluttering the tight stance I started free climbing. 50 ft up I hit an awesome ledge too good to pass up, so I added an anchor and moved the team up. Kyle in the mean time cleaned the previous bit to a state of being semi pleasant climbing!! At this belay our peril became evident, we were already spiraling into gnarly dehydration. Kyle was getting loopy, Lani unstoked, and myself crankerous. I would continue up with inobvious route finding. A long circuitous pitch of steep 5.9 led to another good albeit sun exposed ledge. We were closing on the summit, Lani encouraged me to keep leading while Kyle cleaned the route. A blueberry filled corner provided passage to the next tier, a pitch likened to the tree climbing on j berg!! One more mega ledge and we could smell it! A casual pitch of 5.7 led up to a short bit of heather clawing onto the summit of the buttress. We had read that it was easy climbing to the summit of middle index from here and it looked so. It also looked like a bunch of cascadian bush mank that seemed like it would taint our experience in our state of dehydrated madness. We descended to camp to smoke the joint we found in the parking lot and contemplate our descent. One or two puffs in I had this idea to lower Kyle with the bags down the whole face. We all became (mostly) convinced it would work and put wheels in the motion the next day. After wranglin the bags back to fall line we descended two pitches to the intended “drop zone”. We delicately stacked 1000’ of rope joined with edk’s, we would would bump em all through a munter. Kyle and the bags were probably closing on 400 lbs, we needed a gri and munter to control the load. The lower went smooth, and we were amazed! Bags were down!!!! So myself and Lani dropped all but two ropes down the face and Kyle started managing the clusterfuck. Our new friend River had responded to a Facebook call for porter help and met Kyle at the lake to take down 50-60 lbs of our load while me and Lani rapped the face and cleaned our gear. We touched down not too long after and started the soul crushing hike down, we had about 70-80 lbs a piece. I had called my parents again as it seems like all our friends are busy this time of year, they met us at the parking lot with a cooler of cold bubbly, fucking great climb. Shoutout to Lani for stoke, Kyle for his undying willingness to suffer and commitment to the manual labor and route creation, and River! For being willing to come up and help total strangers hump our stinky clusterfuck around. This route was certainly the effort of a village, and a wonderful big wall line that I hope people enjoy. Gear Notes: Double Rack micro to #4, Single 5, Single set of offset nuts (didn’t use rp’s), 4-5 each beaks, 2 small lost arrows, 10 rivet hangers. All bolts and rivets are stainless, one or two bolts didn’t take well in the wet mud, but could potentially be reset with a funk and tightented (all anchors have at least 2 good bolts). Some may need to be tightened up again after initial loading. No ledges big enough even for 1 to sleep, good portaledges camps at the top of pitch 3,6,9, and 12. Do not haul above 12. Bivies at 3,6, and side of 11 take 2 ledges well. Rap the route, some directionals need to be placed on a handful of pitches to get down, pitch 7 needs to remain fixed with an extra 35-40M rope (it could be possible to down aid the roof on rappel to get back to the previous anchor) Approach Notes: Scamper to Lake Serene while the tourons ask about your “paraglide” or “boats”. Easy talus walking to near the waterfall between the buttresses. Enjoy your stay in Jötunheim!
  12. [TR] Johannesburg - 1957 NE Rib 08/01/2020

    J berg has some of the best rock quality in the cascade pass region. Not really sure why there’s a bunch of hype over the choss, type 1 cascadian hilarity the whole way! Maybe best done sans rope and sans bivy gear, I recall my 15 L pack was about all I’d have wanted to carry through the jungle gym of cedars. Anyone do any of the lines on the wall to the left? The Yellow flower route and the two just right of center look neat, looks kinda steep for 5.6/7 though, sandbag or optical illusion?
  13. As far as I can tell this is it. A couple fxed lines over there gave some clues on features.
  14. Trip: Mt. Index - North Norwegian Trip Date: 06/25/2020 Trip Report: Bringin big walling back! I’ve grown up in a vacuum, an existence in climbing severely lacking a critical component. There’s no fucking wall climbing in the NW! Or at least nobody does it, and when they do they retrobolt it for the sport wanking mutants. This is a trip report and a calling. Last year I caught a bug and became obsessed with a specific wall, the North Norwegian. Maybe the largest proper wall around and no one climbs it, 5.9 A3, that’s a damn moderate. I scheduled attempts and got shut with weather and work until sept. I convinced my friend Lani to go and check it out, work of course cut into the plans and shattered our window from 6 days to 3. So we cut the bolt kit down to the minimum “Peter couldn’t have put that bad of bolts in could he?”, oh how naive we were. We ran up there with like 6 bolts and a handful of rivets in case any blew. We climbed the free pitches up to the “bivy” in the topo and climbed the 2 pitches above. The anchor for the first pitch was a rusted carbon 1/4” wedge and a excavated #3. The 3 fell out when I kicked the rock above the anchor and the structure of the rock in the belay changed a bit. Needless to say the first few beak placements were moderately stressful. Reaching the second anchor we found a couple more gnarly rusted 1/4” carbon bolts. One I pulled out with a light tug of the hammer. I slugged one of our stainless bolts in there and we decided to head down. Not enough bolts with us to tackle that whale! The thought of that bail festered all winter and plans percolated into the spring. Weather persisted to be quite shit for quite too long. We escaped down to the valley for a lap on the captain and raced back to wa to impulse take advantage of a weather window. A last minute call to my friend Kyle and we were 3. 3 bumbling idiots lumping way to much shit up to lake serene. After the taste of the doorish route we determined it would be the same amount of effort to climb a new line. We choose a weakness that runs the left side of the buttress, opposite of the two existing routes. On our first stint up the wall, we pushed the route about 700’. Of course the cascades had its way with us and we got plenty of rain half the time we were up there. Turns out our line happens to blast straight up a seasonal water streak, hence the nice cracks... so even when the sun was out the soakage continued! It was mud wrestling, manual labor, much trundling and plenty of hilarious fuckery. We set up the route to return and our window of time off is narrowly approaching and stoke is high! Hence the spray! Pitch 1 is more or less shared with the doorish line (or at least what we could discern from the mank topo). Getting to the base was entertaining and involved with a couple hundred feet of neve unexpectedly gaurding the wall. We had very minimal snow gear so I ended up hauling the pigs off a single ice axe anchor, which mostly worked, until it didnt and all parties went flying. Quite entertaining for a little 20 degree slope. Eventually we got the bags up there and docked on an axe and we could climb. A delicate saunter up the pitch was mostly familiar, but I veered left towards our crack. I think I found 1 piece of gear in some 200’, but at least two points of contact were mostly attached to the wall most of the time, that’s redundancy right ther. I stretched the rope and got to a horrid low angle stance on the “ledge” and drove a shit beak in to tag the anchor kit up. The sloping shit ledges would become a theme of the route so far. Bolts in I started to haul, Kyle helped the bags surmount the chossy 5.7 as dusk rolled. Lani finally gets up to the lake having climbing baker that morning and we decide to convene on the ground for some sleep. We had to bring one bag back down to fill up water at the lake as the moats were particularly man eating and scary to get water from. Morning came and we all set our wheels in motion. I jugged the lead line and stole one of the ropes to start soloing the next pitch while Kyle and Lani got water and hauled the load to the pitch one anchor. Pitch 2 started out with a nice 5.8 slab that led up to some C2 choss blocks to an A3 crack up a face. At one point an expanding beak popped out a little and I’m pretty sure I’d a shit myself if I hadn’t just emptied my bowels. This angry beak proceeded to pop 2 more times until it was only in there about an eighth inch. Held in by broken dreams and the tears of a “fear fucked orangutan”. I got 2 two lobe cams shoved behind a loose block and equalized em and jumped on em. Much fuckery persisted as the junk show assembled at the base of the pitch. I eventually made it up to the “gnar shard”. Figured I’d kill my partners if I tried to climb up through this thing this far away from them so I again tagged up the drill. So much for the plan to stretch the pitches out! Unsure if I’d already dead ended the team I figured I’d go up and check this block out. An easy C1 crack led up to the big stack of death blocks, I looked around and tapped it with my hammer. I felt like I could deconstruct it at a reasonable pace to huck the individual blocks clear of the belay. The first few were toasted sized and easy to manage. Then I had to top step and try the big un’. It unexpectedly popped and nailed me in the collar bone. I wrestled the microwave and won! Using my body to shield the belay I was able to will it away. Some primal noises ensued, the route goes on! We were expecting weather at this point so I was tasked with locating a reasonably sheltered spot to set up a portaledge camp. The easy C1 crack continued up to a large overhanging corner beneath a roof. Bingo! I started setting up the bivy anchor while the clusterfuck migrated. The next would be the last pitch for my block, so I decided to fix while Kyle and Lani set up the ledges and got camp situated. This would prove to be the crux of the route so far (A3+ or so) and the first rivets to come out. The rock quality however increased substantially. There was a heinous water streak coming off a roof partway up the pitch. Climbing in a waterfall is... fine... the pitch topped out with a bunch of cool natural hooks in near overhanging terrain to a small ledge in a mud waterfall corner. I fixed the ropes and zipped the line to a warm camp. A whiteout rolled in that night. The whiteout and drizzles came and went throughout the next day but the water streak provided a constant deluge of water. The weather was never bad but conditions would have been... engaging. Nobody could muster the motivation to go up there and lead the mud waterfall pitch in those conditions. We decided we were lame and were ok with that and drank some tea. The next morning we awoke to sun, much needed to dry our stuff out from the “dry our stuff out” day. We rambled up to the top of the fixed lines and Kyle volunteered to take the next block. He started up a relatively dry but mud filled corner. This dry corner soon became a fun experiment in the dynamics of daily snow melt cycles. It slowly progressed into a muddy waterfall. The muddy corner became full of death blocks and the drill came out to avoid some heinous choss. Out of sight we heard “fuck I just broke my finger!”. Having not heard rockfall we guessed Kyle smashed his finger driving a rivet in. Turns out that was the case. We showed up at the belay and his finger was starting to turn funny colors in a particularly unnatural direction. Kyle touted it was “just the tip” and there was nothing to do about it so we decided to continue on. He was however not psyched on leading, so I was somehow nominated to continue up the soaking wet pitch above. Again aiming for what looked like an obvious ledge, I found fun and solid thin nailing up to another shitty sloping stance. I started to set up the anchor for another bivy as things had progressed to a particularly damp state of affairs. The positioning of the ledges was tricky but we managed and settled in to weigh options. With our time off from work running low we decided to use the time we had to better set up the route for a return visit (trundling n whatnot). The rappel was mostly without incident, other then Kyle sending off a smart car sized boulder that caused a house sized chunk of snow to collapse into the moat. Coming off the wall I reaffirmed a concept and am psyched to turn it into a project. I want to write a PNW big wall guidebook, I know the walls are out there, most are unrepeated Pete Doorish obscurities with death anchors. I’m starting a tick list of faces, features, walls and routes, I think these lines could use some updated anchor bolts and some friggin traffic! Here’s my rough list so far, who’s got suggestions? I’m not super familiar with sw bc walls. Write me the most fucked up tick list you can! NNB (gotta wrap up our line this month and update hardware on that doorish line at some point, also clear all the trash rope left on the doorish line and voodoo proj) South Norwegian N face Baring utw routes Diamond on N face bear SE face tower mt e face liberty bell anything else I’m missing in the wa pass/ rainy pass zone? the chief/Squamish wall lines Big wall belt!! Who’s read those aac posts?!? southern bc has so much granite, what are the biggest baddest faces up there? theres purportedly a wall style route on slesse mt snoqualmie of all places tower rock down south sounds cool Gear Notes: Evolving Approach Notes: Jaunt up lake serene trail
  15. [TR] Mt. Index - North Norwegian 06/25/2020

    Back at it! Got back to the high point and settled into camp yesterday, starting up the next block of the wall today. It is STEEP!
  16. Looks like a little high pressure system might push in early next week. And i have tue-wed off. I'm looking to do a one day summit push and ski on either day (normally wouldn't be all that big of a day, but that all depends on how much of the road is going to be snow covered). All pending conditions and snow stability. shoot me a text if your interested 425-761-9849
  17. Just climbed outer space yesterday (9/28). The flake moves about the same as i remember it did when i climbed it last (spring 2014). Doesn't seem to be going anywhere, but who knows after another winter or 5's worth of freeze-thaw cycles. It doesn't change the difficulty to not use it, so i'd say just avoid it until it comes off on its own.
  18. Trip: X38 - New routes at Gun Show Date: 9/12/2015 Trip Report: Finally had an alignment of the big three, time off, weather, and a partner. For those unaware, throughout this year i've been cleaning and bolting a number of climbs on the buttress to the far right of Gun Show. For what its worth heres a poorly drawn topo of the area. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaUhEdTJ5NUtiakE/view?pli=1 To get there, take the trail that gets you to endless bliss, from there, turn right and head down down a gully with a with a fixed line. Go past web slinger and continue up for a short distance and you should see the large obvious chimney. This is where 4 of the 5 routes are, for "welcome to the jungle" (the 3 pitch trad line) continue right to a small talus field, the whole climb will become visible. Here are the routes from right to left. Welcome to the jungle 5.8 ** 3 pitches approx. 60m FA Sam Boyce, Joe Manning, swap leads 9/11/15 It looked pretty easy from the ground, so i decided it would be a good opportunity to go ground up on something. After a bit of inspection i decided to trundle p1 on rap. Turned out to be a good idea as i pulled off many body sized blocks. The rock underneath however was bomber and gear options plenty. The pitches are unfortunately fairly short, but we decided to pitch it out for rope drag and communication. It might make sense to link either 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 for future ascents. P1- Start on the lower left of the lower wall with a few chimney moves, move out right and follow the scrub line. Pull onto the big ledge and belay at the tree to the left. Super solid rock, good gear, and fun climbing. 5.8 *** P2- Those not thrilled on adventure can downclimb a bit of 4th class to the right. This is where the route got its name. Start by monkeying up and around the belay tree and continue up the dirty chimney (climbs cleaner than it is) to the final ramp. Good gear belay. 5.5 * P3- Get a couple pieces in and gingerly dance around the big scary block, easier climbing to the top out (loose). Walk either all the way to the trees at headlight point or build a gear anchor about halfway up (theres a solid anchor about 100 ft back from the top out and toward climbers right). 5.6 * P4?- Walk up to Headlight Point then either hike out, or climb up and top out on headlight. GEAR: SR from blue metolius to 3 (#4 is nice for P3) Descent: Walk off from either headlight or top of eastern bloc View of the Whole Route https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BejEwNUZfUlRHTkk Joe leading P2 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BTW1BWVlhNkRSVVk Leading P3 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BQzAxRUZNU3hIdmc Anchor i used for the top of P3 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BdXJMRmdNX0RhRmM Heading toward Headlight https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BWUZFaVlQVzJIN28 View from the top https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BZDRRWXRhZ0U4RDQ ?Dislocated? 5.11c *** 2 pitches. 40m FA Kyle Elliot The start of the climb is the overhanging clean dihedral just to the right of the chimney. I bolted this back around February, at the time i couldn't figure out the sequence for the start the dihedral so i made it an open project. Kyle Elliot snagged the FA, the name is a tentative, but derived from an apparent finger injury sustained on the crux. You can walk off/onto the P1 anchor ledge from climbers right through a couple trees. Shares P1 anchor with "Relocated" and P2 anchor with "Relocated" and "Stairway to Stem". P1- Boulder up the dihedral then walk up the easy, but dirty slab to the anchors on the ledge above. 5.11c *** P2- Face climb straight up, a couple options are available, the crux comes as another boulder problem to gain the final headwall headed toward the top. 5.10d *** Gear: sport rack Descent: Rap the route. Base area of Dislocated https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BdWwzUnNDNWtkLWc The starting Dihedral https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BRDJIekN4QjBjLW8 P2 is the flat face high center in photo https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc'>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc Relocated 5.6 ** 2 Pitches. 40m FA Sam Boyce (OS lead), Joe Manning (OS Follow) 9/11/15 The ramp located between stairway and dislocated. Looked like a short and fun little trad line, worth climbing for the final 25-30 ft. Shares P1 anchor with "Dislocated" and P2 anchor with "Dislocated" and "Stairway to Stem". P1- Up the ramp/dihedral either cut right halfway up at a crack or continue further climbers left. 5.6 ** P2- Walk right across the ledge and start climbing at some blocky flakes. Up a 4th class slab to the final headwall (gear options if insecure on slab, but gear might increase rope drag). Continue right until you see the super broken up face. A few fun moves brings you to a super airy traverse (really fun) leftward. Continue straight up to the anchors. 5.6 **** Gear: SR Descent: Rap the route. Start of the route https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BN183eFB3UU1vYVE Leading P1 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaGt0N0xWRE5ZSkU P1 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc The second Pitch https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BXzhxY1p3dlhzSWs Stairway to Stem 5.9 **** 2 Pitches. 40m FA Sam Boyce (OS lead), Andrew Nelson (OS follow) Feb 2015 The large obvious chimney. First route i bolted in the area. the massive debris field at the base is reminiscent of the sheer volume of rock and dirt that was removed from this thing. The lower part of the climb can tend to get dirty as it seems to be the funnel of debris in the area. Don't let this discourage you to much as the actual climbing stays pretty clean. Shares P2 anchor with "Relocated" and Dislocated" P0- Comfortable parties may want to solo the 4th class stairway to the first bolt. P1- Stem straight up, Fun and unique to the area. Top out right to continue on stairway, top out left to climb P2 of Baby Steps. If continuing on stairway there is an optional chainless belay right after the top-out, stop here or continue to the top. 5.9 **** P2- Start by traversing right, head straight up on some fun and really airy face moves. Head straight up to the anchor. 5.9 **** Gear: Sport Rack Descent: rap to the P1 dislocated/relocated anchor then to the ground. P1 is the chimney hugging the right edge of the photo https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ'>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ Baby Steps 5.10b *** 2 Pitches. 40m FA Sam Boyce (OS Lead), Joe Manning (OS follow). 9/11/15 Takes a line to the right of the massive nose shaped roof, starts just left to the start of stairway. Looked cool, the anchors on P2 were actually there (hangerless) when i scrambled up there, i'm guessing from when someone put up web slinger. Super clean on solid rock with good gear. P1- Starts off on the blocky bit to the left of stairway, gain the initial slab (ignore the chains below the roof, they are for a project not yet completed). Its a bit runout, so those unaccustomed to slab climbing may find this the a tad spicy. first bolt is on a ramp feature, mantel past it and walk left to gain the next bolt. 2 face cruxes are separated by a really good jug that you can place gear from. The protruding block at the end of the second move is solid (i couldn't get it to come out with a crowbar) but use it at your own discretion. I yarded on it on lead and Joe followed without using it. Top out onto the slab and head straight to the anchor. 5.10b **** P2- Head into the obvious dihedral. Bomber finger locks and solid gear brings you to a large block (again i couldn't remove it with a crowbar). Use the bolt, do not use the splitter crack behind the block for what should be obvious reasons. continue up the dihedral and finish on another low angle slab. 5.8+ *** Gear: 4 bolts + SR with grey/blue metolius (protects crux), #4 is helpful in P1 Descent: Rap the route. The route starts center, and follows right of the nose, P2 is the dihedral barely visible high center https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ Chains on and below massive Nose roof Incomplete as of 9/12/15. Intended line is to the left of the nose with possible aid line straight up the prow of it. Will complete when i make my next hanger order.
  19. I bolted a couple lines a while back and never got around to posting them, so here they are. They are to the far right of gun show, about a couple hundred feet to the right of web slinger. The first one is a 2 pitch stem width chimney (p1 is the chimney, p2 is on an arete). http://www.mountainproject.com/v/stairway-to-stem/110503508 The other is a 2 pitch face climb that probably goes somewhere in the 12's. It starts in a overhung dihedral (probably in the 12's) to the right of stairway to stem, it then heads up some easy slab to an anchor. From there its thin face climbing (11's) up the obvious face and to the right of the arete toward the top. This is an open project. Here is the MP page i made for the variation i took on an FA attempt http://www.mountainproject.com/v/unfinished-business-/110503770
  20. New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1142936 weather, injury, and lack of availability prolonged it longer than i'd like but i finally got out and did some final scrubbing and climbed the new lines.
  21. New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

    Hey guys, haven't posted in a while so i figured i should give an update on what i've been up to (not as much climbing as i'd like). I had some time off and couldn't secure a climbing partner to go to squamish so I made some last minute plans and went on a solo backpacking trip. After i got back i was riding my motorcycle and got rear-ended by another bike. I got some decent road rash, nothing to stop me from climbing, but enough to make me not want to head up and clean (seems self-explanatory, but for those who don't know, scrubbing tends to generate an unpleasant cloud of dirt and lichen debris). Everything is ready minus the far left line (ran out of hangers, so i need to get some more to bolt the short section of rock without gear options). I'm hoping to get out this week to get the 3 new lines climbed. I'll bring my camera when i get out and post all the info/grades and such then. Also, i recently checked in on the MP pages and it seems like someone climbed the proj dihege, i'll try and get a hold of him, see if he wants to name it, see what he felt about the grade.
  22. New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

    Also, for all you adrenaline junkies, there is a bit of a side project coming into fruition. I don't feel disposed to share details until i'm sure its safe, but i'm psyched for it, so if you want some beta shoot me a PM.
  23. New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

    Hey Guys, figured I should give an update and a bit of a warning. I've been up in the same vicinity as the other routes I bolted cleaning a few new lines, today especially I kicked off a number of rather huge blocks. So this is more of a warning for the next few days. It will NOT be safe to go all the way down to web slinger, web slinger might be "ok" but I've noticed quite a bit of shrapnel flying in that direction. I'll try and rope off the approach with the fixed line and might make a sign (maybe for the TH and the rope, thoughts?), and will certainly try to give advanced warning for bigger rocks. With all that said, there should be a total of 4 new independent multi-pitch lines in the vicinity by the end of the week. I'll post some beta once I get them all cleaned and climbed. Once climbed there will be a total of 6 routes (adding up to a total of 15 pitches) from left to right: -3 pitch 5.hard, don't know what it'll go at, still need to clean and bolt the crux. mixed pro -3 pitch (optional p-1) mid 10, mixed pro -stairway to stem -2 pitch 5.8-9 on gear with bolted anchors -2 pitch 5.hard open project dihege to 10- face to V3-4 -3 pitch 5.7ish all gear, top out at headlight As I was cleaning , I noticed the lines I bolted earlier this year had gotten a bit grungy and dirty, so I took a scrub lap down p2 of stairway. I'm holding off on rescrubbing p1 of stairway as that is where all of the cleaning debris in the area accumulates. Everything should be good to go later this week. I'll post a topo for the area along with pictures/better route descriptions and names once they get climbed (speaking of, anyone want to do some FA's thur afternoon)
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