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This approach is an appetizer of nettles and other thorny shrubbery types that thoroughly enjoy tickling your ankles with utter abandon. The 5.4 on the super gorge classic corner is a splendid main course in prime conditions currently. Though we wondered if frozen moss would allow for less rope drag when pulling to rap? How old is the pin by the tree?
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ahutton joined the community
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Kelty Cloud 6500 Pack vs Wild Things Andinista
ahutton replied to erewhon's topic in The Gear Critic
It's now over 20 years later; and I still don't regret the purchase of the Kelty Cloud (or my Hilleberg tent) and it's as durable as it was on day one though a bit dirtier. Sometimes good gear is good gear. -
Elizard joined the community
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Hey did you end up finding anyone for this attempt? Short notice, but we just got shut down by the aftermath of the storm last week, and I'm chomping to find another opportunity to make it up there this season. Happy to discuss in more detail.
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John, Yep, I saw that photo when looking for lines other than the first ascent. If the summit register is to be believed, the Plumb Line Buttress is probably the, in my flea-bitten opinion, less aesthetic buttress starting from the right edge of the leftmost snow patch. We initially had our sights on the thinner rib west of our central buttress but there appeared to be a section of rot where it first gets steep and another below the top so we opted for the safer option. It's anyone's guess where Roger Jung went but I wouldn't be surprised if he climbed roughly the same line as us. I would call ours a "possible" rather than "probable" first ascent. To add to Eric's list of stats: We took about 6 hours on the route but that's 'cause one of us is "old and in the way".
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Rodny Rodriguez changed their profile photo
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Jaredvg started following Partners wanted: All the Things and Types for the PNW
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Partners wanted: All the Things and Types for the PNW
Jaredvg replied to wingy's topic in Climbing Partners
Sent you a DM - I’m always looking for partners as well. -
MRNP Carbon River/Mowich Lake Access Closed
Fairweather replied to Fairweather's topic in Access Issues
Access to MRNP just got worse. (For Pierce County residents.) https://mynorthwest.com/chokepoints/sr-410-white-river-bridge/4121822 -
Baranof Island Alpine Traverse August 22 - 25, 2023
Joe_Poulton replied to Fairweather's topic in Alaska
There was a guide a few decades ago that was planning to open this traverse up as a guided outing. It didn’t happen however. I just came across this bit: https://www.kcaw.org/2017/11/17/sitka-hikers-wrap-epic-six-year-baranof-island-trek/ -
A moment ago I was searching here for anyone possibly climbing with POTS. I have 4 kids now; the 2 oldest most likely have POTS; one of our 4 year old twins survived two open heart surgeries in her first two years of life; both at UCSF Benioff—the best pediatric cardio-thoracic surgeon Dr Reddy is down there. But back to POTS; found something somewhere else so, I figured I’d drop it here: https://blog.weighmyrack.com/how-to-climb-with-pots/ Anyone here have kids with POTS that go out in the woods hiking or climbing?
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Thanks for the clarification, John @John_Roper -- I've seen it variously referred to with the -burg, the -berg, the full name with either an e or a u, and sometimes the hyphenate J-. Presumably the playful J-berg is truncated to make clear it's a smaller version of the real deal, and refers to a mountain and not a city? Anyway, now we know, J-berg! Fixed it in the title, etc.
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I have been gone from the area for over 20 years now. But I never thought that this would happen in my lifetime. Rather melancholy about that now.
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FA - Helms Deep - The Stairs of Cirith Ungol - 6 pitches, 5.11c
wayne replied to aawait92's topic in Alpine Lakes
We tried it today, it could use a good scrubbing- 4 replies
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- first ascent
- middle fork
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Nice line, especially the side view. Naming history: Little J-Berg. 7945’ on map. P745 (now Lidar P790). This was the original (August 23, 1968) name for this summit since from Easy Pass its shape resembles that of massive Johannesburg Mountain near Cascade Pass. (A "berg" is a mountain; a "burg" is a town.) Fred Beckey was lukewarm about this name for his guidebook, so Legends Peak came to mind to honor Indian legends and legendary climbers. The alternate name was Arches Peak for its arcing shape and for a blocky arch low on its north slope and was so recorded in green Fred CAG. I still like Little J-Berg best.
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Chauceeer joined the community
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A few days ago Lani and I did a fun link up on forbidden. We climbed the East ridge North Ridge and West Ridge. This is a rad way to move through a lot of scrambling terrain. Uncertain weather before the atmospheric river gave us a pretty narrow window to work with, so we headed up the evening before and bivied at the base of the East ridge. We left the B basin trail around 5pm and set up camp around 8 for an early night. The cloud ceiling quickly raised up, putting us in a thick,misty whiteout for the whole of the night. We woke up to even more whiteout and low confidence, expecting to bail we went back to sleep for a few hours. We ended up leaving the bivy around 8am. We climbed up the East ridge, then down climbed the north ridge. Down climbing the North Ridge was surprisingly mellow, we didn't end up needing to rappel. And the route finding was almost easier on the way down than the way up. There is only one 20' section of 5.5 at the very bottom, otherwise it's all sustained 4th class and secure low fifth. Once at the low bivy of the north ridge, the clouds again threatened us. So we sat and weighed our options. We ended up watching the clouds for an hour before deciding our fate. Our original idea was to traverse the glacier and climb the NW face/rib. But whiteout and impending rain steered our decision to "bail" back up the north ridge. Though the north ridge is such a fun knife edge it's hard to complain. We then down climbed the West Ridge. We hit the base of the West ridge 6 hours after starting up the East ridge and made it to the car just before 5, almost 24hrs after we left. The epic rains to come that night validated our decision to limit our time in the mountains on this one. For those who don't know yet, you no longer need to touch snow to climb either the west or east ridges. The glacier below the cat scratches is more or less completely gone. While sad, it does mean you can do this whole link up in approach shoes without carrying axe/crampons. Starting up the East Ridge Headed down the North Ridge, with clouds threatening to spill in from the west. Headed back up.
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