[TR] Argonaut Peak- Jason's Esophagus (NE Couloir/Gully) 5/2/2004

[klenke]

Climb: Argonaut Peak-Jason's Esophagus (NE Couloir/Gully)

 

Date of Climb: 5/2/2004

 

Trip Report:

Okay, apparently a miscommunication between Tod and me caused a delay for the presentation of this trip report, but here it is...

 

Tod Bloxham, Martin Cash, Sergio Verdina, and I climbed the narrow NE Couloir ("Jason's Esophagus") on Sunday. The esophagus is visible at left in the photo below:

 

After spending the night at the trailhead w/o being hassled by Larry the Tool, we left at 6:00AM. When we got to the swampy area about a mile past the Colchuck Lake junction we got our first view of our destination. Lo and behold, we noticed a twosome in our couloir. Someone was poaching our secret route! Dammit!

 

In another couple of hours we found ourselves in the north basin (Jason's stomach) at the base of the esophagus. We were following a boot path. The esophagus didn't look too intimidating and it wasn't. It maintains a fairly constant angle of about 45 degrees for its 1,200-ft gain (approx. 7,000 ft up to 8,200 ft).

 

The esophagus narrows down to squeeze up the epiglotus (see picture below). Once in the glottis, we continued up past the larynx (a noisy fountain spewing from an ice floe) to reach the back of the mouth. A climb over the back of Jason's tongue was now in order.

 

The back of the tongue (the rock transition from couloir to upper NE-facing snowfield) required technical climbing. Martin and Sergio followed a 5.6 crevice to the left (see below) while Tod and I took an easier route to the right. This got us to the upper snowfield (Jason's tongue) whereupon we met the twosome we had seen earlier. This twosome (a Erick and John) had been rebuffed on their first try up on the crest above.

 

The tongue was climbed by contouring the north slope to avoid the small notch on the east-west ridge crest (Jason's teeth). This notch typically requires a rappel to get into to continue on the ascent. Some steep snow with little in the way of run out got us onto Jason's teeth.

 

Class-3 skipping from molar to molar soon found us at the tallest incisor (the summit). This incisor needs some serious dental work to fix the cavities it has. Meanwhile, after calling out to Erick and John that they should follow our route to the top because it was all easy, they never showed up. They just gave up. Perplexing.

 

We were the first party to summit (at least sign the register) this year. Lots of notable names in the register (John Roper [1987], Lowell and Carl Skoog ['91], Roger Jung ['01], and Eric Hoffman['02], to name a few) but none had signed it at an earlier date in the year than our May 2. This seemed strange but perhaps the register is buried in snow in winter. I wonder if this peak has seen a winter ascent (my old brown Beckey doesn't say).

 

We returned to the back of the tongue whereupon we rappeled it so we could downclimb Jason's throat (The East Gully) on our way over to bag ColchucK and later ChucK's Col.

 

Saying goodbye to Jason of the Argonauts, we slogged in the berating sun and were shortly on the summit of Colchuck, which Sergio had been on twice before and me once before (the other two were Colchuck newbies). Myself, Sergio, and Martin high-tailed it out of there as soon as Tod started singing (if that's what you want to call it) the lyrics to McLean's "American Pie".

 

Descending the Colchuck Glacier, we honed our glissading skills (Sergio and Martin got busy with each other--Martin kept pushing Sergio from behind). By 8:30PM we were back at the trailhead aching from all the uneven steps on the snowy trail. 14.5 hours round trip.

 

Gear Notes:

We used only one ice axe each and used two 50m ropes for the rappel. Also used a rope for the 5.6 chimney ascent. We brought lots of extra "just in case" gear but didn't use it. This included a second tool, three pickets, two ice screws, crampons, and two light alpine racks (one for each twosome). The crampons will be useful a little later if/when the couloir gets icy.

 

Approach Notes:

3.4 miles of trail, 1.8 miles of off-trail to the couloir, then maybe 0.5 more miles to the summit. The return via Colchuck Peak then Colchuck Lake is about the same distance.

 

This climb can totally be done in a day. Very worthwhile moderate alpine experience.

Okay, no to this route, everyone, but it should be good-to-go for another few weeks. This (Jason's Esophagus) would even be a good winter route. I wonder if it has been done.

 

More info and pictures can be found here.

[DPS]

Not only had you been beaten by those two you mentioned, but we beat those guys by a day. Secret climb my ass. And yes, it is a reasonable day climb, especially after someone has but in a boot path and fixed new rappel anchors.

Edited May 5, 2004 by danielpatricksmith

[klenke]

Then why not sign the summit register to let us know you did it, DPS? Last night at the picnic Colin mentioned something about you being in the area. Note that the other two guys did not summit. We knew others had been up there in addition to the other two guys (there were way too many tracks for just them to have made). Those other two guys said the guys from the day before (you?) didn't summit, but they may have been mistaken. I know you've got the alpine hardman ability to summit, so I'm guessing you did (despite the lack of register entry).

 

The secret route comment was tongue-in-cheek. We just wanted to make sure we got up there before JoshK.

 

Don't worry, DPS, we'll never be as cool as you. Your status is safe.

[DPS]

We did indeed summit, the WRONG peak. We myopically climbed the east peak and only noticed the true, west summit, from the top. By that time it was late.

 

I say secret climb my ass only because I was surprised that any body else would climb the peak this year, much less three parties in one weekend, so put away the pressed ham, man.

[MCash]

That's a bummer you got the wrong one. How was the climb on the SE spire? It looked low to mid 5th class from below. The true summit had only a short section of class 4.

 

I'm interested in how many early season ascents Argonaut has seen. I wonder if it has seen a winter ascent. Anybody know?

[bobbyperu]

the rock on the s. face is where its at

[JoshK]

The secret route comment was tongue-in-cheek. We just wanted to make sure we got up there before JoshK.

 

LOL. Don't worry, I've been busy going up the cascade river road once a week for the past 2 months to worry about the Stuart range

 

That coulior looks like a pretty ski tho.

[JoshK]

I'm interested in how many early season ascents Argonaut has seen. I wonder if it has seen a winter ascent. Anybody know?

 

I'd to imagine so. The stuarts are probably the easiest of the "big" mountains to access in the winter. I'm sure the area between colchuck lake and stuart lake sees the most concentrated number of climbers in a given winter.

[thrutch]

Mr Klenke,

 

I don't think I have ever signed a summit register before, I see little importance in it personally. But whatever floats your boat.

[EJohnson]

John and I were the other party up there last weekend. John was little too freaked out with with the exposure of the upper snowfield to continue. Which is odd since we climbed much harder routes last summer. Anyways, its a cool route. I'm sure it will become real popular.

 

Saturdays party of three, I took some pictures of you guys on the upper snowfield I will post them when I get my film back.

 

Erick

[klenke]

Thanks, Erick. I got your name wrong but have edited it in the TR. Note that your buddy John is featured in the rappelling photo above (he can be seen downclimbing the E. Gully).

 

Having not attained the summit from this side, you can now do it from a different side later and thereby see even more of the mountain.

 

Thrutch: I agree you can choose not to sign registers with no loss in importance to the climb. However, I bet the majority of climbers do sign them. So really it is whatever floats your boat, not mine.

[cracked]

I don't sign registers, either. What's the point?

[Dru]

so that 20 years from now, klenke can say the summit is "infrequently climbed" because the register has two entries, even though there are 10,000 trip reports for the summit available online

[klenke]

To those interested in documentation, names in registers prove visitation of notable figures (and otherwise) from bygone days. Else, it may be up to supposition later. The equivalent would be to keep one's own personal log (which a lot of people do) but this is impossible for others to make use of at the top of the mountain in question.

 

I don't climb peaks merely to sign their summit registers and probably 70% of peaks I've climbed do not have one anyway. So they're not a requirement for me. However, if one is present I will sign it. I like to read names in registers (what these people say isn't always important). I figure writing my own name in there returns the favor for those who know me (either directly or indirectly). They can know what I've been doing. Over time, having read the same estimable names in many registers, I acquire more of an understanding and appreciation for these persons' accomplishments. Example: apparently Monica Lewinsky climbed Argonaut, for her name was in the register.

 

An interesting story concerning myself: a person I used to climb with no longer climbs with anyone (including his father). He is a very good climber but doesn't converse/engage with others or climb with others. However, though that be his personality, he does sign his name into summit registers. I (and others who know him) keep seeing his name entered. We then relay this info to his parents.

 

Oh, and lastly, I sign and make use of summit registers because they're fun (for me). They give me something to do while I'm having a snack. They're something that holds a connection to civilization in a milieu that is wholly nature (at least in so much as peaks in the Stuart Range are natural).

 

If you don't want to sign a register, don't sign it. We that do don't take issue with those who don't. So why shouldn't the reverse be possible? Thrutch's initial post concerning said activities (and yours later) really did not have import in this thread. May the issue rest in peace...or migrate to its own thread.

 

That's the point, Paul.

[JoshK]

An interesting story concerning myself: a person I used to climb with no longer climbs with anyone (including his father). He is a very good climber but doesn't converse/engage with others or climb with others. However, though that be his personality, he does sign his name into summit registers. I (and others who know him) keep seeing his name entered. We then relay this info to his parents.

 

Should I be concerned this person will try to hurt me should I run across him in the mountains? Sounds a little nuts, to say the least.

[klenke]

No, just EXTREMELY quiet and disengaged. There are those personalities who we've all climbed with who might say 10 sentences during an outing. Well, he might say 10 words. Nothing wrong with the guy otherwise. For a garrulous person such as myself, I found him quite difficult to climb with in the social sense. I would have more fun climbing alone. He was usually ahead of everyone guiding the way, so it was a lot like following someone but not connecting with them (like surreptitously tailing a suspect, or something; something that would be more fun than tailing someone who knew you were back there).

[cracked]

I make sure to have a public chestbeating site so I can brag about what I've failed on. I don't need summit registers when I've got the internet.

[DPS]

That's a bummer you got the wrong one. How was the climb on the SE spire? It looked low to mid 5th class from below. The true summit had only a short section of class 4.

 

No, it was not really a bummer. I am not a peak bagger, I just thoroughly enjoyed a great day with really good friends. There was one pitch of mid fith class. I am absolutely sure Argonaut has been climbed in winter.

[chucK]

Klenke and Kompany, nice job! Looks like a kool klimb.

 

 

With respect to summit registers: when I catch myself leafing through one of them a bit too long, reading stuff like, "Beautiful sunny day! Can see Adams, Rainier, ...", or "Total summit whiteout. This always happens to me!" over and over, I suddenly feel pretty stupid to be wasting limited view-gazing minutes poring over the weather record of the past few years.

Edited May 6, 2004 by chucK

[Bug]

Bug was. No shit.

[erez]

Is there a moderade rock or snow route up Dragontail from the top of Colchuck col? so that you could link up Colchuck and Dragontail together? Also, is there a way down into the upper enchanments from colchuck col if you wanted to climb little anapurna let say?

[klenke]

The answer to your first two questions is YES. The answer to your last question is YES.

A picture of Colchuck & Dragontail from Argonaut:

The climb of Colchuck from Colchuck Col is easy. Just one steep snowfield to contend with (ice axe usage). Later on this is just talus. At far right in the photo you can see a couloir on Dragontail. You can take that up to the D-tail summit ridge, cross over to the east side and walk to the summit. The couloir is easy (ice axe usage).

 

From Dragontail, it is possible to walk/scramble the ridge east over East Dragontail thence to Little Annapurna. Here is a picture of that ridge from the ENE (East Dragontail is on the left; Dragontail is at right):

Alternatively, you could drop down from the col on the immediate east side of D-tail, down the Snow Creek Glacier (take crampons and ice axe for later in season), to just above Aasgard Pass, then go east (possible trail travel) until you can cut back up and right (SE) to Little Annapurna, which is just out of frame to the left. The first alternative is more scrambling but less elevation loss-gain. The second alternative is safer (not including cramponing issues on the glacier) but there is still scrambling to attain Lil-A's summit (mostly slabby low-angle rock with sandy terraces in between but also talus).

[erez]

Great Info and Pics! thanks!

[Stefan]

Looks like a great time Klenke and Tod! Thanks for all the info and pictures!