Trip: Adams Gl Headwall, FA- "Ice Extension" - IV-AI4, expect some mixed

Date: 7/4/2011

Trip Report:
It is a testament to El-Nino and an open minded approach to ice climbing that an interesting new route was enjoyed on the 4th of July in 2011. It also was made possible by being at the high altitude of Mt Adams,- The shade of a northwest face, -and a tough young lady with an eye for ice. Anastasia/Mitochondria enticed me with the following email:

Hey Wayne,I was wondering if you would be interested in trying a new variation on the Adams Headwall with me (at >11k) which I spotted last year from the Stormy Monday Couloir.In short, it includes 2 pitch of WI3-4(?) (and it was in through July last year) followed by 60-70 deg alpine ice/rock (more ice early in the season I bet) to get to the rim at about 11500
Here is a few pics from the last year (mid July!) and I can dig more out if needed:WI pitch -longer than it looks on the pic – and probably fatter earlier in the season, stays in shade pretty much all day – cuz it is buried in the buttress:

[....mitos pic from last year here, picture on my blog....]

Knowing that you are into exploring the new lines on old big volcanoes, I thought I would ask
But I understand if you have other priorities/interests.
Let me know.Anastasia

Given my history of trying anything once, we did the long, snowy approach on Sunday the 3rd and the route on a brutal 22hr Monday, July 4.(counting the drive back).
I always forget how big these Monster-Volcanos are.
That tiny looking cliff is actually 2 pitches. The whole route is over 3000 feet tall, with several technical pitches along the top of it. After sharing the first half of the "Stormy Monday Couloir" we soloed the first steps. Then got after the middle pitches, the first was a 50m WI3+. Mito tackled the 30m 2nd pitch.
After the middle pitches, it became a real struggle to find a way up the overhanging 60m rock band at the top. I began a traverse to the left hoping it would allow me get to the summit snow-slopes. It went on for quite a ways until I found the way through. It was an awesome pitch. Vertical ice and rock followed by a short overhang with”good” rime to pull up on. Such a great finish to a long ice season.


The Line

The Approach

Camping out at 8k

Camping out at 8k

Camping out at 8k

Mito soloing the first pitch WI2, mixed

Mitochondria on The middle Pitches

Mito Leading Middle Pitches

Mito Before the Traverse

Mito resting the calves mid Traverse

The Traverse

A wtf moment on the crux,

Mito on the crux last pitch, AI4, mixed

Topping out

The exhausted team on the top.

It was a fine route that extended our ice season into extra innings. A few memories that stand out for me are the extra 3 miles each way on the snowy road, both of my crampons almost falling off while soloing the first middle pitches, the amazing crux pitch, Mitos uncontrolled exuberance after doing her dream route.
Special thanks to Jim at Pro Mt Sports for the last minute gear grab!
More on my blog below.

Nicely done! Molodets'!

I do not know Russian so it goes in Spanish: BUENISIMO !!

WOW! that looks like a great line. Hard to believe that there are still FA gems to be had.

Fantastic. The summit pic says it all.

Nice, but I do not see any mixed climbing. Just wandering between some crappy frozen in place volcanic rock :-).

Super cool!

THAT looks like a very interesting route. Great job folks and thanks for the trip report.

Thanks for the great report and trip Wayne!

A few pics/comments on my behalf.

The line:



Our camp a la Tarkovsky's Solaris final scene:



Rock avies hit the north side of Adams - the recurrent theme that follows me around since Rainier :


Wayne crossing the shrund:


Wayne below the purty Adams HW:


Wayne approaching WI2 step that we soloed:


Wayne soloing WI3+ pitch:


Healthy water ice was found and climbed. Only in Washington and in July :


Wayne before the rimey traverse. At one point we had only one hollow screw between us but I promised Wayne not to fall Good times. I hurt even thinking about it and still do not know why we used the rope at all .


Wayne's AI4 money pitch to the crater rim:


With the "good rime to pull up on" - here it comes Yocum Ridge!:

Nice one!

Nastia, nice job realizing this one!!

Great send!

Are you back from the kalifornikan land, white boy?

indeed - gonna craft a tr 'fore too long - sorta overwhelmed by the # of pix to wade through though and settlign for just drinking and napping currently

so now that you've realized this ambition of yours that's brewed for so long, what's next?

First Female Ascent of the "Stone Soup"

Nice job, Anastasia and Wayne. Nice to see a FA bagged on a big volcano

Thanks Marcin, it was a fun trip. Have enjoyed your trs too.

Dang. Nice work guys.