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#868154 - 02/18/09 07:19 PM Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades?
Ade Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/20/00
Posts: 1166
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Loc: In a meeting...
I started to compile a list

http://www.ademiller.com/blogs/climbing/winter-routes

What have I missed? I'm sure there are some. Post them as suggestions here.

Cheers,

Ade
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#868161 - 02/18/09 07:42 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: Ade]
wayne1112 Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 2547
TRs: 25 Photos: 182
Loc: relative
Oh Baby! > Nice work Ade,
Cant wait for the New Alpine Ice guide.GO Dave!
I have a weak effort (at the bottom of the page) going on myself. I will now steal your data.
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#868162 - 02/18/09 07:51 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: wayne1112]
genepires Offline
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Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 1259
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Loc: out in the woods
the best winter cascade route is the drive over i-90 on the way to banff. smile

Haven't checked out your list but with my modest winter experience, I think the regular route on tooth is pretty cool in winter.

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#868164 - 02/18/09 07:58 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: genepires]
genepires Offline
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Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 1259
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Loc: out in the woods
oh, I see you got das tooth. AND whitechuck!

how about Darin Berdinka and Dave Brannons trip up Hall peak from 4 (or so) years ago?

W ridge of N twin is pretty good in winter too.

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#868166 - 02/18/09 08:13 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: genepires]
mattp Offline
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Registered: 02/26/01
Posts: 11261
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Loc: Seattle, WA USA
I've said it on here before, but the North Ridge of Pinnacle Peak is an outstanding little winter climb. It is five or six short pitches from the notch (approach from Pinnacle-Castle basin), all with good belay's and moderate though exposed and exciting climbing.

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#868168 - 02/18/09 08:22 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: mattp]
Peakpimp Offline
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Registered: 05/16/07
Posts: 223
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Loc: Lake City, Wa
How about Mt Index north face or the Index Peak traverse?
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#868181 - 02/18/09 09:34 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: Peakpimp]
wdietsch Offline
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Registered: 01/20/01
Posts: 824
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Loc: vancouver, wa
Originally Posted By: Peakpimp
How about Mt Index north face?


I second that motion

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#868183 - 02/18/09 09:36 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: Peakpimp]
marc_leclerc Offline
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Registered: 04/11/08
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Maybe the North Face Couloir of Slesse could be one of the best lines.

Hiking snowy logging roads in the dark also seems pretty popular... not my favourite though.
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#868209 - 02/19/09 04:18 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: marc_leclerc]
danielpatricksmith Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 2015
TRs: 19 Photos: 39
Loc: The 'quah
NE Buttress of J'berg is pretty outstanding in the right winter conditions.

NE Couloir of Argonaut is a fun little romp.

Bryant Peak has a nice ice route on its north face.

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#868213 - 02/19/09 07:01 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: danielpatricksmith]
tomtom Offline
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Loc: Russia With Love
Ice Cliff Glacier on Stuart is a fun, but not too technical, winter route.
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#868215 - 02/19/09 07:36 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: wayne1112]
Ade Offline
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Registered: 10/20/00
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Loc: In a meeting...
Originally Posted By: wayne1112
Oh Baby! > Cant wait for the New Alpine Ice guide.GO Dave!


Someone's working on a new guide?
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#868219 - 02/19/09 07:53 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: Ade]
G-spotter Offline
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Registered: 12/20/01
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Loc: free range
Nothing on Shuksan?
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#868222 - 02/19/09 08:06 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: Ade]
Off_White Moderator Offline
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Registered: 04/04/02
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Loc: Tenino
What about that thin couloir on Chiwawa that Colin & Dave did a few years back? TR
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#868232 - 02/19/09 09:12 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: G-spotter]
mattp Offline
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Registered: 02/26/01
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Loc: Seattle, WA USA
Originally Posted By: G-spotter
Nothing on Shuksan?


The North Face route is a great winter climb but it doesn't make Ade's list because it is too easy. For some guys around here it is a ski route.

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#868245 - 02/19/09 10:39 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: mattp]
ivan Online   sickness
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Registered: 03/12/02
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Loc: Oceania
it seems unfair that the volcanoes don't get their due. while most volcano routes are snow-slogs, these are quite nice:
- hood: n face, yocums, illumination rock, black spider
- rainier: ptarmigan, liberty
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#868247 - 02/19/09 10:43 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: mattp]
G-spotter Offline
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Originally Posted By: mattp
Originally Posted By: G-spotter
Nothing on Shuksan?


The North Face route is a great winter climb but it doesn't make Ade's list because it is too easy. For some guys around here it is a ski route.


There are plenty more winter routes than the NF. Like the Nelson-Lewis (i hope i got that FA party right?) on Nuttsack Tower
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#868248 - 02/19/09 10:45 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: G-spotter]
DRep Offline
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Registered: 06/08/07
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Loc: Sultan
Fischer Chimney to hourglass looks pretty fun yet easy.

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#868254 - 02/19/09 11:55 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: DRep]
mattp Offline
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Registered: 02/26/01
Posts: 11261
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Loc: Seattle, WA USA
More commonly climbed is the White Salmon Glacier to "Hell's Highway," which is mis-labeled as "The Hourglass" on the topo map (or is it the other way around - I can't remember). This one is a ski route for more moderate skiers than is the North Face.


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#868272 - 02/19/09 01:07 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: mattp]
Ade Offline
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Loc: In a meeting...
Originally Posted By: mattp
Originally Posted By: G-spotter
Nothing on Shuksan?


The North Face route is a great winter climb but it doesn't make Ade's list because it is too easy. For some guys around here it is a ski route.


No easy is fine. Da Tooth and Chair are in for that very reason. Accessibility is more important than difficulty in some respects.
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#868282 - 02/19/09 01:22 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: tomtom]
dberdinka Offline
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Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 1692
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Loc: Bellingham
Whitehorse - Alpine Banana or whatever they called that couloir

Hall Peak - definitely has super easy access and the potential for some pretty big WI lines. A bit subalpine for superclassic status but worthy destination none the less.

Lake 22 - Headwall looks big with easy access

Sloan Peak - The best looking winterline that everyone knows about yet no one has yet to climb

N Twin Sister - Agreed that the west ridge is a semi-popular and fun winter climb

Shuksan - Everyone climbs the N Face but there are obviously many other interesting moderate mixed line strewn about the NW side of the mountain with easy access.

Washington Pass Area??
Cutthroat
Early Morning Couloirs
W Face Couloir on Silverstar
other stuff?
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#868476 - 02/20/09 05:43 PM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: Ade]
wayne1112 Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 05/14/01
Posts: 2547
TRs: 25 Photos: 182
Loc: relative
Originally Posted By: Ade
Originally Posted By: wayne1112
Oh Baby! > Cant wait for the New Alpine Ice guide.GO Dave!


Someone's working on a new guide?


YES, Our own AlpineDave is near completely done with a full list of the sweetness...
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#868581 - 02/22/09 07:48 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: wayne1112]
genepires Offline
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Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 1259
TRs: 7 Photos: 28
Loc: out in the woods
zig zag on mt erie on a sunny saturday is a fine winter destination. Oh yeah, you want icy hard stuff. smile

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#868582 - 02/22/09 08:00 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: genepires]
genepires Offline
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Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 1259
TRs: 7 Photos: 28
Loc: out in the woods
what about big snow mtn? mclellan butte?

there was a winter alpine guide that dallas Kloke made years ago. Prolly out of print but has lots of smaller winter things to do, for mortals. Mostly snow climbing. He has some ice climbing in it.

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#868595 - 02/22/09 10:24 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: genepires]
G-spotter Offline
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Registered: 12/20/01
Posts: 12159
TRs: 47 Photos: 352
Loc: free range
the best winter climb is the one having the most fun?
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#868598 - 02/22/09 10:41 AM Re: Best/favorite Winter routes in the Cascades? [Re: G-spotter]
genepires Offline
veteran

Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 1259
TRs: 7 Photos: 28
Loc: out in the woods
how could it have taken 2 weeks for that quote to come out. slackers we be.

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