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Posted

Actually, it was more likely a Mt. Hood specific device known as the "mountain locator unit," or MLU. It's just a radio transmitter that can be rented at local climbing shops - local SAR just follows the signal to the lost party if a rescue is needed. I think these may have been developed after that OES disaster in the 80s.

Posted

Just a compass alone would probably have done it... it sounds like they made the standard follow-the-fall-line-in-a-whiteout mistake, and ended up too far west. Of course, we don't know any details yet...

Posted

Apparently they had little to no supplies. It seems to me that if you were going out on Hood on a day of expected snowfall, you'd bring enough gear to last a night. How hard is that? a couple cliff bars and a down jacket.

 

 

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--eternal

Posted

They were a group of five climbing Leuthold Couloir with oncoming bad weather. The wound up traversing the summit rim in the dark and a total whiteout, digging a snow cave on the summit. We found them in their cave this morning and helped them down the South side in some truly horrible weather. The south side route is really funky right now. The hogsback has shifted very far east from the past few years, and there was terrible windslab.

Posted

good example of why it's better to wait for the actual facts to roll in. the news reports made it sound like the party just got off route on the way down after climbing the south side... not a word about spending the night in a snow cave on the summit. nice work iain.

Posted

Story I saw on the news said that several different agencies were involved in the rescue. The climbers dug a cave 100 ft from the summit.

 

Interestingly, the 5 guys who climbed Leutholds had parked next to us at about 4 a.m. Saturday morning and were gearing up as we left the parking lot for the east crater rim. I was making small talk briefly with the bigger, bearded guy and he said they were headed to Leutholds. I overheard one of his partners mention the transciever and I kind of chuckled to myself. Good thing they had it with them, although they seemed competent and well-prepared. Conditions on Leutholds must have been quite a bit different then they were for us because we were back to the car by 11:30 a.m.

 

Glad everyone is safe and sound. Good job Iain.

Posted

By the way, the news reports I watched said the group of five had a cell phone and called down to let everyone know they were ok and didn't need a rescue. If this is true, why did they mobilize SAR?

 

Posted

I talked to them as they departed the path up to Crater Rock for Leutholds at about 5:30AM. They seemed to be making good time on the ski slope. We summited well before 10:00, so they were going very slow. The snow conditions yesterday (crusted snow and ice) probably made Leutholds much more difficult.

Posted

Good question. I was surprised to see all 5 were in good shape and wondered why they hadn't set out to get down somehow. Apparently they were told when they called in to stay in the cave until someone reached them. One of them said they didn't know where they were and needed help finding the pearly gates. Gives you an idea of how bad the weather was up there. The gates and chute were totally different from a week ago, and maybe even yesterday from when you climbed down it. Certainly the strangest southside climb I've done.

Posted (edited)

I was hanging out with the girldfriend of that bigger, bearded guy (Keith) on Fri. afternoon, driving back from Hood River as the clouds started to move in. Glad to hear he and the rest are ok.

 

The Oregonian finished its story in this morning's paper with a quote by Keith made while in the snow cave: "What do you guys want to climb next?" Classic.

Edited by Winter

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