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bush-in-sky

TFT Conditions?

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Hey,

 

Anyone been on the Torment - Forbidden Traverse or been in Boston Basin recently? Thinking about going up next weekend but haven't seen too many reports from this early in the season and I'm worried about excessive snow on the rock portions of the route. Had the opposite problem on my last attempt but that was in September a few years ago.

 

Any beta appreciated, thanks.

 

-Seth

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If you don't have any luck with responses here, you can call the Marblemount ranger station and ask them if they have any reports yet. Despite the wet spring, it seems like snowpack is about average for this time of year but melting pretty fast.

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Haven't been on TFT or Boston Basin, ever. But the rock route on Stuart seemed fairly snow free on the actual climbing, and there was a fair amount of snow in gulleys and depressions, etc. I think it would be good climbing. I would be sure to bring sturdy boots and be prepared for a lot of climbing in crampons, perhaps bring rock shoes for some insurance in case you need to climb something harder.

 

If you are comfortable or willing to climb in the mixed rock/snow conditions I think this weekend and next should be perfectly fine. The longer you wait, the more snow free it will be.

 

The approach and nasty loose shit should be kept to a minimum thanks to the snow ... so it should be good.

 

I'm thinking about it this weekend ...

 

Dave

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I was down in the Sierras recently and there was not much snow so I'm sure there won't be much snow in the North Cascades either.

 

Mt. Stuart? Really, Dave? Come on!

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best to call the rangers station. maybe the climbing rangers have been in the area recently.

 

 

 

 

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It's going to be really snowy. I'm sure it could be done, but most would find it in sub-optimal shape. July is typically the ticket.

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I was just looking back at climbing dates and we were up there on July 8th 2012, a big snow year. I recall we were one of the first teams on the TFT that summer and there was still a bunch of snow. The rangers were laughing about having to dig out the BB privy over the 4th of July as it was still under several feet of snow.

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P1010226_resize.JPG

This is what it looked like on 5/10/11.

 

I would expect it to be mostly snow, lots of it fluted and soft and melting, and most likely corniced.

 

Not sure how you can compare conditions on Stuart to conditions on Forbidden, but whatever you think.

 

 

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Wow! Did you ski the north side Tom? TR??

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We skied Torment 3 years ago via the NW Glacier. You commented on the TR, but probably forgot!

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1016360/TR_Mt_Torment_NW_Glacier_Ski_5

 

I realize this was 3 years ago, but you might be able to use the photo to get a rough guesstimate of current conditions. It would be a snow climb right now, and I seriously doubt you'd find much rock.

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for what it's worth, the ridge just east of east McMillan Spire this afternoon - http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/155881783 - ridges everywhere look like this or snowier, with cornices. I observed what looks like significant new snow at least in the Picket ranges - http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/155881674 and http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/155881675.

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D'oh! Didn't see the date on your post tom and thought it was from this year. I do remember your tr from a couple years ago so, although I'm almost over the hill, I'm not there yet.

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Thanks for all the pictures and suggestions. Good to have a visual for what nearby peaks currently look like. We talked to one of the rangers who read us several W Ridge Forbidden reports, but didn't have much insight on torment-forbidden. We'll try again Monday but probably err on the side of there being more snow currently than we'd like for that route and set our sights elsewhere for now.

 

Seth

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I don't really know why snow in the Sierras (or lack of it) would indicate anything about the conditions in the Cascades.

 

I was on Eldorado over the weekend and it looked like there was still significant snow on the Forbidden glacier and on the ridges. If I remember right we hit solid snow at ~4000ft in the Eldorado creek basin and one of our group was surprised by how much snow is still up high despite the high snowline. I know it's not the route you are asking about but at least we had line of sight and were within a couple of miles and in the same approximate elevation. PM me an email address and I'll send you a few pictures that I snapped of Forbidden after I get home from work this afternoon.

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I don't really know why snow in the Sierras (or lack of it) would indicate anything about the conditions in the Cascades.

 

Neither do I!

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MG_9885.jpg

 

Was on Sahale over the weekend and it has melted a lot since that photo was taken on 5/10. Looked like the west ridge was mostly snow free. We found a fair amount of snow on ledges on Sahale and Boston, so I would expect similar on Forbidden and the TFT. I am writing up a full TR on our trip with lots of photos and should have it done tomorrow.

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I can see at least one key section in your photo that would make the TFT spicier than normal- the descent off Torment to the rap.

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Looks like a wallow fest right now. Personally, I'd not be caught on that terrain in an unconsolidated snowpack.

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Road is gated at the Boston basin TH. There is a deep but small patch of snow basically 3 feet from the entrance to the cascade pass parking lot which is the only reason the road is still closed. Should be open soon though as it was melting fast. The parking lot itself is dry

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We only went up to about 4400ft on the trail and then cut off into Solider boy creek to go direct to the arm and avoid the pass. The trail was some snow at the bottom and dry above until we turned off for the creek. I expect the trail is mostly snow free until the open slopes near the pass. You could still go direct up the basin to cascade pass on snow. Sahale arm is still almost all snow

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Is there continuous snow from the Cascade Pass Trailhead up Sahale Arm?

 

If you head up the drainage instead of the trail, yes, as of Sunday. There may be a few bare spots in a few days but it's definitely worth bringing the skis!

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I was up there today. The road is gated at mp 21, ~2600 feet. Is the road every gated at the actual Boston Basin Trailhead? Anyway, still able to ski to the arm on continuous snow, however the snow made for some interesting skinning. The snow kept on sliding under your feet in no fall zones which kept you on your toes.

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