jja Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 More pointless approach beta follows: Didn't feel like running tonight so I hiked up to chair instead. Left the car at 7:10pm was at the bottom of the first pitch on the nf at 9:35pm, bulletproof all the way. The good news is it's cold up there and everything is frozen, crust and all. Had my tools and crampons with me so I made a few moves onto the ice, thick enough for stubbies for sure, maybe even a 17cm. Though secure, the ice did feel a little areated(sp?). ... So there I am, on ice, with tools, crampons, a descent rope in my pack, headlamp, great conditions, no wind, all the stars out, all alone, having that debate in my head, should I or shouldn't I. - Oh wait a minute, I did forget something - balls!
Highlander Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 I am sure half of Seattle will be up there on Saturday.
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 I'm gonna bivy at the base of the mtn tonight.
COL._Von_Spanker Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 I'm bivvying at the top right now. I have a sat phone and a laptop.
jja Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 so who has the link to the webcam that's up there?
COL._Von_Spanker Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 (edited) chair peak cam Edited January 10, 2003 by COL._Von_Spanker
Highlander Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 (edited) Should be a great clusterfuck up there this weekend! Get an early start lads. Heard the mountaineers are leaving the parking lot at 5:00 AM and using all day siege tactics. Edited January 10, 2003 by Highlander
climber_x Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 Considering the potential cluster at chair is there any other promising alpine ice near snoqualmie pass anybody would recomend? Thanks
mattp Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 That's easy. Just head up there and look around. That N. Face of Chair is pretty good because it is overall a simple and barely technical line up a somewhat imposing face, but all you have to do is head up there and pick a gully and start climbing and I am sure you will find something. Bring a pair of binoculars and scope it out as best you can, and then be prepared to find out that you may have made a bad choice. But it is really that easy. With recent warm temps, there may not be a lot of ice but there will certainly be a lot of steep snow climbs that could provide plenty of entertainment and I am sure it is there too if ice is what you want.
minx Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 Chair was good climbing yesterday but I wouldn't go near that place on Saturday! There were quite a few people yesterday. Tomorrow will be a mad house!
jja Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 Franklin Falls - bring a snorkel NE slab tooth - bring some skill NY gully - bring some mojo Upper International - bring good skis
cracked Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 Mattp, as an alpine gumby, what is the NE Buttress like? I remeber somebody saying that it is less technical than the N. face.
mattp Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 Cracked - the buttress can be less technical than the N. Face, but I bet that it was more technical than the N. Face when Ray climbed it a couple weeks ago. Now? I don't know. I haven't been up there for a year or two.
cracked Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 Thanks, I guess I find all I need to know tomorrow. Sure, I'll be a circus, we'll just have to leave early. I guess I'll see a lot of you guys up there. Climb safe!
klenke Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 Here's the NOAA weather forecast for Snoqualmie Pass on Saturday: SATURDAY...VERY STORMY... A STRONG CHANCE OF THUNDER, LIGHTNING, HIGH WINDS, EXTREME AVALANCHE CONDITIONS, AND HEAVY RAINS... SNOW LEVEL 7000 FEET...WITH UP TO 3 INCHES NEW LIQUID PRECIPITATION. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES 50 TO 55. WIND IN THE PASSES AND FOOTHILLS EAST 45 TO 55 MPH. STAY AWAY AT ALL COSTS. CLIMBERS SHOULD GO TO EXIT 38 INSTEAD.
sverdina Posted January 10, 2003 Posted January 10, 2003 Yes absolutely. Very "out"! It's pure madness up there right now.
Lambone Posted January 11, 2003 Posted January 11, 2003 I heard from a friend of a friend who said that his friend told him that his partners ex-girlfriends brothers freind went up there and said the ice was too thin. Then again...he was also a friend of Scot'teryx...so take report that with a grain of salt.
sverdina Posted January 11, 2003 Posted January 11, 2003 A friend of s'teryx?! Well, that expains it then, eh. Though Klenke's weather forcast doesn't sound too enticing.
plexus Posted January 11, 2003 Posted January 11, 2003 You guys should head back to Hidden Lakes and look for that camera instead
catbirdseat Posted January 11, 2003 Posted January 11, 2003 It's looking like the weather won't be good until Wednesday. The report calls for "moderate" precip through Tuesday. It may be necessary to wait until after then to allow for the snow to consolidate. The good news is steadily lowering snow levels from Sunday to Tuesday.
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