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dr._jay

chair peak

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celebrated the first day of winter with an attempt on chair peak yesterday. it was pretty slow going as there was much deep snow above source lake and snowshoes were pretty nice to have along, but once we ditched them below the east face breaking trail from the crest of the ridge to the north face was no fun at all. there was definitely ice to be had on the route but it was thin and steep and intimidating at the start. the ice was pretty nice in places and it looked like there were screw placements to be had, but i can't say for sure since i never got more than 10 feet off the ground, but at least i got a chance to play with my new tools. i'm sure there are plenty of cascade hardpeople who could scratch their way up and feel good about it but it was not to be for us so late in the day. we were rewarded once the skies cleared and it was freakin' beautiful out there, and we never saw another person other that some dudes heading to the tooth. all in all it was a great day in the mountains but with weather this good right now, i'm goin to index.

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did you happen to notice if snow lake is frozen over yet? (don't actually know how much of a view you would have of it.)

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its about half-covered right now. we had a sweet view of it--if i get around to a scanner i'll post a couple photos. anyone have one i could use?

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What kind of tool ya swing good docta?

Something with a scapel of an edge, Im sure

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got me some stylin cobras, so sharp i could use them to perform minor procedures while on belay. and sharp lookin, too.

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Robertm and I climbed Chair peak via the Norhteast buttress today. Nice to scratch around on the rock ahd do some mixed climbing. Frozen heather rocks. Rob had all the hard pitches fruit.gif Go left at midheight for some killer stuff wink.gif it's a little spicy.

 

I rate it M420 tongue.gif

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Nice job!

 

What kind of gear did you use? Did you pound some pins or use all passive pro?

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Conditions were thinner than when I have climbed it in the past. It made for some fun mixed climbing with the ice where you need it.

 

2 knifeblades (used both)

1 baby angle (used but probably shouldn't have -- shitty)

1 Ice Screw (tried to use but ice wasn't thick enough)

3 cams (didn't use)

2 TCUs (used the yellow one)

Set of nuts (used several)

2 hexes (used both)

Slings (6 singles, 1 double)

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grin.gif

 

Four number 3's and a big bro? I'm writing all of this down. Thanks for the beta!

 

bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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Nice work you bastards. bigdrink.gif

 

I was hoping that some one was up there today after TimL and I bailed on the Denny-Tooth traverse Sunday morning due to rain and no visibility.

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Nice climbing guys. Looks thin above the knob belay, but you managed something in before traversing to the ice step fruit.gif

 

I bailed a couple yrs back from the capt's stance when we attempted the line with a 50 meter. We didn't want to end up in no mans land below the ice step, that is a tough lead to protect.

 

Great photos, looks pretty thin!

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I have to add that I think Rob was pretty gung ho on one particular lead where I am photod on belay. That was for sure rated R with sketchy moves over a bulge (no pro for over 50 feet). IF it wasn't for his determination I am pretty sure I would have been thwarted. It was likely the toughest mixed pitche I have done. I'd climb it again.

 

Anyway with some new snow and melt freeze cycles it will certainly be more pleasant. You might even get some good ice?

 

Also the steps put in by jay and party on the trail were very useful and time saving.

 

The east face looks like it could need some resurrection as a winter route as well. It has great position.

 

We thought colin would dust off the route for us be he climbed the toof instead (probably free solo and in half our time on chair).

 

The Kaleetan- Roosevelt traverse looked to be in good shape too but definelty a loooooong day or bivy on that one. I'll probably try it in summer first.

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We used the big bro to smoke herb out of. cantfocus.gif I'd say bring a 60m rope like we used. Otherwise set the belay closer on the crux pitch if you can find a good anchor (read smoker's post). 4 pitches.

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Nice photos, fellars! My only experience on the route was a pleasant one. The ice was so phat that we started with two pitches on the East Face. Thunk. Thunk. Thunk. I can still hear it. Then we climbed onto the butt and found so much ice below the step that I chopped out a platform and got three excellent screws for the belay. The step was easy, but above was just sugar snow with no real belay anchors to be found. That really sucked because I had two guys following the pitch!

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