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Z-Man

Possible FAs

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Thought I'd share some FA ideas which I've worked on over the past 12 years. Some of them are well known and have been attempted, others less so. They may or may not be worth doing, someone should let us all know. I won't be getting to them anytime soon.

 

Winterish:

 

NF Direct Sperry: Line by Mark and Ade back in 2010, but the obvious line straight up the middle awaits.

 

WF Sloan: you all know this one.

 

EF Pugh: Hella approach, great looking ramp, looks kind of like the EF of Whitehorse.

 

NF Kent: 3 lines already, but at least two others to do. 1 day climb, reasonable approach, can see it from I-90!

 

NF Booker: big, awesome. Reported to be decent, if not abundant, ice by the folks who have been back in there.

 

Labor Day Route Shuksan: I've seen it filled in exactly once. Any route you want up to the summit pyramid, then the business.

 

WF Lincoln Peak: several big lines, some probably death routes, others look reasonable

 

NF Right Buck: NF Central was pretty rad back in 08, this one looks good too.

 

Summerish

 

NR of East Cashmere: 1 day c2c, one line on it already, but I think a better one awaits.

 

NEB-NR link-up West Craggy: Old Doorish route. Did an FA on this peak looking for the Doorish route, it was mostly poop, but the route to do is the NEB, which Doorish calls good, and then finish via the NR to the summit.

 

SEF Bears Breast: 2000' slab, could be 4th class like the route vaguely described in Beckey or there could be 5.10

 

NE Couloir Bonanza: May-June. I think this could be the safest route to the summit. Just around the corner from the NE Ridge.

 

SSE/SE Ridge Berge: Granite! Looks steep and not well-featured.

 

NR Cleator: Scary, big, nice line, good shot of it in CAG vol 2.

 

N Couloir McMillan Spires: May-June.

 

Chimney Rock Traverse: smaller version of a Pickets traverse, combine with Lemah for bonus.

 

WF Lemah: Pretty impressively shear when seen from Chikamin, rock is terrible, what else is new.

 

NER of University Peak, California, near Big Pine. 13000' beautiful granite with three N-facing soaring buttresses. Only line on it is a Beckey Route which predictably goes up loose gully between the buttresses.

 

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Leland Windham and others have put up some lines on that SEF of Bears Breast. 4th and low 5th from email exchanges with him, though basically they are free solos as they didn't put in any bolts. Slab with limited gear.

 

I think Pablo from AAI took a client up that Mac Spires gulley in 2009. We ran into them up in the basin and he described a line which may or may not be what you are talking about. The traversed around Little Mac to drop in to the North Side. Sounded a bit spicy, and they got back to camp way late- thankfully all in one piece.

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I've never seen a scurlock pic of nf booker that had any ice on it? agree the face is large. the rock is junk, fwiw.

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Great list there, worked on a few of those myself. Darin posted a list like this a while back. Most of them got done since then, Anybody with searching skills able to find it?

 

edit, here is the Darin thread steal my projects,

it is not the one I was thinking of. Maybe it was Layton that left a huge list of possible fas?

Edited by wayne

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W Face of Sloan is broken by many horizontal ledges and looks dirty from several angles, so it might not be as aesthetic as photos from below might suggest. Bunker did a long route on the left side.

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As far as I know none of these have been reported as climbed, and most of these haven't come up on this website by anyone other than me before. I've hiked in to all of them at least once, and put in attempts on most.

 

The WF Sloan Direct in Winter I have seen a good up-close photo of in good condition exactly once. Many tiers of fat water ice. Just to the left the NWF as put up by talucat et al a few years back is very reliable and is pretty similar to other sized objectives like TCs or SGC. Makes for a great backup if you hike in there and the Direct isn't good to go.

 

NF Booker is definitely some of the worst rock out there. Some folks would probably be upset that secrets get spilled, but that was years ago and its time for some stoke to be renewed. I have it on good authority that it holds ice in winter.

 

I haven't heard anything about the SEF of Bear's Breast. From what you're describing sounds like it's pretty low angle and probably only worth a solo. Defnitely looks impressive.

 

I ran into Pablo on Inspiration with a client around that time, would surprise me that he would guide a line like that, but would be cool to hear about. Looks like a pretty tough entry in Spring, but it might be more filled in earlier in the season.

 

Too much talking, not enough climbing...

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I've found that Cascade Pass can have really great early winter climbing. I bet there are a few lines that have not seen a winter ascent. Anybody know if T-F Traverse has been done in winter? That would be fully bad ass.

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The WF Sloan Direct in Winter I have seen a good up-close photo of in good condition exactly once. Many tiers of fat water ice. Just to the left the NWF as put up by talucat et al a few years back is very reliable and is pretty similar to other sized objectives like TCs or SGC. Makes for a great backup if you hike in there and the Direct isn't good to go. ...

 

I misread your note and thought you meant summer rock. Winter is a different story. Access is good so hopefully someone will climb it.

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TFT definitely hasn't been done in Winter. Anyone who has been up there can attest to double corniced ridges for most of the length. Bring some high explosives.

 

Jim Nelson has for several years been looking for partners for a Winter ascent of one of the NF routes above the Sill Glacier. OlegV really wants to give it a go.

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Sill Glacier - would that be the NE face of J-Berg? I've looked hard at some of those routes like the Yellow Flower route for winter ascents. I think this would be a good year for it.

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