Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Lambone

Leashless Modifications

Recommended Posts

I hope to use my firnds Ergo's next week in Bozeman. I'll let you know what i think about the swing...

 

Damn, i wish I was sponsord...he gets all the cool new shit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i don't think you would be doing any plunging with those ergos , so building the grip up shouldn't be a problem.

 

I bet he's talking about the length of the grip, not the circumfrence, might be a little harder to build that up. frown.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not entirely true, Dru. Think of trying to hold on to a chopstick. It takes mucho strength. Tennis players have interechangeable handles, why can't we? Huh, BD?

 

snoboy - grips on tennis rackets differ in size by circumference. length too in some cases - but you can only specify the circumference, not the length. so i assume he is also talking about the circumference of the grip on the ice tools - not the length.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was talking about both. On the Rage the diameter of the shaft is rather small, I would prefer the Cobra. On the Quark Ergo, the grip is too short. Sorry, I should have been more accurate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bolt_Clipper,

 

What kind of gloves were you trying the Ergos with? I think they are fine with a thinner type glove. I also like the Cobra grip over the Rage type. Not because it is less pumpy to hold onto, but becasue it seems to put less preasure on your fingers. Thin grips hurt my fingers more on Steep ice.

 

Got some ideas from Mike at FF today about modifying the Cobra, thanks Mike.

 

He basicaly cut the BD Ice clipper appart and Hose Clamped one end to the shaft of the Cobra. He also took the hammer piece off and used a regular nut to fasten the pick. Then he wrapped the shaft in hockey tape.

 

Sounds cool, I may try it. I like that it is temporary!

Edited by Lambone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought I would bring this back to the top, as I've experimented recently a bit.

 

Based on some stuff I saw at Hafner, I bought and modified a set of Viper Fang pinkey ledges for my Black Prophets, and they improved the "leashless" performance of this tool tremendously. The modification is easy but delicate with a sharp knife and rat-tail file. If you modify it too much, the ledge becomes unstable and flexes alot. I did one well, and one not-so-well...the differnce is very noticable.

 

BD is coming out with Fangs for Cobras next season. So for those of you who can wait, you will be able to convert your cobras into a better performing leashless tool with these.

 

Grivel makes a bolt-on trigger, but I dont know if it fits BD tools.

 

Finally, Trango has come out with a headless Madame Hook, which is a modern clearance oriented tool with interchangeable handles - ergo, or regular. I will probably be demo-ing them in the near future, if anyone wants to try them out.

 

Alex

Edited by Alex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Finally, Trango has come out with a headless Madame Hook, which is a modern clearance oriented tool with interchangeable handles - ergo, or regular. I will probably be demo-ing them in the near future, if anyone wants to try them out.

now there's an idea. let us know how you like those!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BD is coming out with Fangs for Cobras next season.

 

This did not happen, and I have not been able to get my Viper Fangs onto my Cobras with the same ease as I got them on my Prophets. You have to file so much plastic down, it makes the whole thing pretty suspect. frown.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's the latest news from BD on this:

 

"The pinky shelf on the Cobra would have to be redesigned and beefed

up in order to facilitate a Fang attachment (as is, it just wouldn't be

strong enough.)  There are no plans to change the tool, consequently the

Fang will not be an option for the Cobra."

 

Hmmm...there's still gotta be a way to do it, though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where's the love for the CM Quarks (non-ergo). I thought there was supposed to be an add-on for the pinky hook that was backward compatible with the old Quarks. Anyone seen this beast? I've seen the new Petzl Quarks and would like to retrofit the hook if possible to my old CM Quarks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They exist. Jim Nelson has them at PMS for $11 each. In order to install you must use a razor blade and trim the rubber at the end of the handle and drill a small hole. It comes with instructions and is not that hard to do. I put them on my quarks and love them, besides helping to keep me from bashing my fingers gumby style, climbing leashless is super fun. I do all the easy climbs leashless now, when leading harder stuff I still leash up though.

 

cm-quark-griprest.jpg

 

... btw, they're called the "grip rest"

Edited by jja

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

""I agree that wet shafts are slipperier, which is why I 'm wondering how tools can be modified (at home) inorder to negate the slipperines""

 

try some Xcountry ski wax, the sticky kind, works good when it's wet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×