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Anyone see this crap at Smith?


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Check this out:

 

 

 

 

These guys are idiots, read how they just totally disregard any park/state rules to do their silly little project.

 

When approached by Mike Volk who asked them if they had a film permit that Sean OConner guy responded "No but we have permission from the Access Fund!" So Ian Caldwell called the AF to see if this was true, the AF had no idea and wanted nothing to do with that crap.

 

They proceeded to fly an airplane within 50' of the eagles nest during the bird closure, causing the death of the three baby eagles! They where ticketed by the park but it eventually got thrown out in court.

 

Anyways I hope these guys are done with this "project" and quit pulling this crap.

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asked them on their facebook page, we'll see if they respond. Projects like this are so lame. Instead of a bunch of dirty hippy art school grads fucking around climbing areas doing absolutely nothing for their fellow man besides making "pretty" pictures that don't help anyone out. Why don't they start a charity or something? fuck, like a camp for troubled youth to get into art/climbing. That would be so much cooler and then I could at least have a shred of respect for them.

 

This thing looks like pretentious "oh you don't understand, it's art" type bullshit.

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"Did we have permission for the Smith Rocks Project?

A fine Question,.,.

 

No, we didn't,..But we did stay in the park overnight, breaking another law, in order to make sure that anyone who had trouble with our work could at least have someone to talk to about it.

 

We aer also friends with numerous Terrbonne Locals, and many Smith Rocks Climbing scene fixtures, we got the idea that the adage "Sometimes It's better to ask forgiveness than permission" was appropriate for times like these,. With Oregon weather windows always opening and closing, we had to chance the potential fines and go gorilla."

 

Such a crock of shit!!

 

 

"... Uhh I'm going to get up and hopefully enjoy a cup of coffee with everyone and uhh have another pancake..."

-Doug Lloyd

Edited by corvallisclimb
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yeah I read that, their "project" was too important to get permission for.

The park wouldn't understand it and this art is so important that it must be done.

 

They got let off though in court.

 

reminds me of some characters in the show "Portlandia", except instead of being satire it's dead serious. Glad I go to school in MT.

 

also, just looked back at their facebook page, my question, which was not hostile, just asking for more information, was deleted.

 

if anyone involved with this project would care to chime in I'd like to hear it. So far corvallis and I will just go back and forth calling you fuckwads. Oh, and deleting polite questions without any answer in response is seriously lame, same with killing eagles.

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Some one should create a "One Light Night Project deserves the tickets from Smith Rock State Park" facebook page, if I knew how I would. I bet we can get way more than their piddly 51 likes!!

 

Its so lame how all the people on are like hey its cool blah blah blah... these guys think they are so fucking important its sickening!!!

 

The bullshit continues: http://www.facebook.com/pages/One-Light-Night-Project/180947921959715

 

I posted up... these guys are looser's lets get some more support against them on their facebook page!!

Edited by corvallisclimb
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Ok Team,. Let em fly,. I have read the posts here and so far it seems like you really feel like I am an asshole,. Sorry,.

I am here now to listen and respond to whatever you might like to spray,. I even assumed a less than radical handle just for you guys.

I take full responsibility for the events at Smith,. Yes, we fucked up with the airplane,. It was a guy we didnt know who was just doing us a favor by letting one of my friends sit in his plane while he flew around the park. Our part with the plane was pretty much sitting there with a camera getting some really beautiful shots of the park. When the AF and others brought up the birds we were jaws on the floor. We had the understanding from our Regional AF Rep that we had their blessing,. Sean was not making that up,. Some of us even coughed up our pancakes when we heard that we nest was right in the area the fella was flying. Again, I take responsibility for it, it was/ is primarily my project,..

Without a question we should have gotten permission for this,. I am still working on how to make right with Ranger Brown and somehow make amends for this HUGE error in judgement and ethics. The ONLY reason we fought the citations to begin with was because they were written from internet videos( some would say terrible videos) but internet videos nonetheless.

Initially when I spoke with Ranger Brown I was heavy and more than apologetic,. It was only after curiosity landed me in a conversation with a lawyer friend that we decided maybe 600+ dollars in fines was a bit off,.

Yes,. There is a bit of a smartass tone in the writing on our page,. the whole quote posted about staying in the park and breaking another rule,...Young School,. I couldn't agree more.

We were excited putting this together. I can see very clearly how you guys must really think we suck,.., But if you can try to forgive the edit of the video and the somewhat grandiose and arguably self important tone, please try to accept that we meant no ill will toward the Climbing Community, or the birds,.

I am humbled by the harsh tone of this thread. Please accept my apology for our actions at Smith and understand that we are just trying to have some fun and make some art. No stone was turned at Smith, no climbers were kept from the route, and nobody, park included even knew we were there that day,.

I will try to respond to whatever venomous posts you may like to toss up,.. But try to make them constructive if you can,. I have gotten the point that you think I am a dildo already,. But it is a fun word to type,. so if you must.

And Jon,...The Irony has been killing me for months.. Although there is no real proof of the Eagles, everyone has assumed that we are the cause, I own that tremendous Fuck up as well,. I wont hide from anything that anyone here wants to say,. I will try to let you all know next time I head to Smith for sure.

 

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Again, Point received. I am still stuck on "paintings" i guess. The idea ranges from my love of ancient pictographs and pre "American" art. But I see where you are coming from.

The goal is to get 12 pieces together and find a way to use the images for some sort of fund raising effort for each site, I actually have already talked to the Head Ranger at Smith about it.

If my work was just meant as its seen, just a canvas on the rock,..Yes, pointless for sure,. Most things can be made useless if you simply break them down to their parts and remove all context from the experience. But you are right,. Its just a canvas on a rock to some people. The greatest insult an artist can register to someone is to answer when someone asks, What is that?,.

We did really screw up in a few Huge ways, and I don't pretend to hide from that. But all told, I have to feel like the path is honest, not driven by anything other than a hope to do something meaningful with my work. Sorry you don't like it.

When it comes to the Eagles,. Ignorance is no excuse,. I am the driver of the bus,. And I am not going to live that down. Nor should I.

You seem like a good dude,. Your constant point to do something for my fellow man is well received,. I am absolutely listening,.

 

 

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hey, major props to being so open and honest about the criticism. Just take all the stuff you get here and on you're FB page and incorporate it somehow (maybe leave out the "yer a fucktard" parts). The way you're dealing with this is a great show of your character.

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The way you're dealing with this is a great show of your character.

 

Agreed. Everyone screws up, good on you for owning it at least.

 

A good way to avoid something like this is to get someone involved in your project whose only job is to give perspective. It is easy to get carried away when all you have is an echo chamber in the planning process.

Edited by JoeR
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Cheers Guys,. I appreciate the conversation for real.

keenwesh, I will absolutely be thinking of these exchanges when we get another project underway. Its solid to know that you guys care so much about Smith, the eagles, and play an active part in the discussion, challenging me as I move forward. I am impressed for sure. If we get the chance to share a beer, its on me.

And Joe,.. "echo chamber",.,.on the $$.

We thought we were pretty smart at the time.(the time, time, time) My trad mentor said we gain good judgement by sometimes surviving bad judgement. Not an ideal way to learn, but we survive. He also told me to carry every piece of gear I own for the first 50 5.9's I lead,. I stopped at twelve or so,.

Actually,..I can't say I have climbed 50 5.9's on lead,.,.Oh well,. I digress,... Its late,. And maybe he was exaggerating anyway.

Edited by pancakes
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Here is a constructive idea: Make your art, take photos of it, and project it on the cliff walls at night with a projector with the blessings of the Park and Dept of Fish and Wildlife so you don't disturb any birds. You get your pictograph idea across without being invasive.

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I gotta say I respect you coming on here and taking the shit and being overly accepting and honest about your mistakes. Show's you've got a lot of balls. It looks like you've obviously learned your lesson, and can see and accept all points of views from the climbing community. I commend you for this, now I'm not going to tell you what I think you should be doing, because that is for you to decide. So I wish you guys the best of luck in what ever you do next, just please play safe, and think about ALL aspects of what your doing.

 

:brew:

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Wow another classic thread in the making! As I appreciate art, natural vistas, and redemption I am torn on the issue. I was just enjoying the petroglyphs in Utah, the arial shot of Monkey Face, the effort of the expression, and now the responses of the different parties. Fascinating stuff. I do hope the eagles rebound, hard to say the cause.

Climbing has always fought against its nature to be free, and the need for rules of conduct.

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