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2011/12 Washington Ice Conditions


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Banks Lake on 01/01/2012 - Devil's Punch Bowl




Leavenworth on 01/02/2012 - Hubba Hubba area



There was almost no ice on the Banks Lake area on 01/01, just Devil's Punch Bowl was in.

And Hubba Hubba isn't in right now in my opinion, low protection possibility.

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The girlfriend and I went exploring up the denny creek drainage on Saturday- We knew that finding ice was highly unlikely, but I needed to break in new boots, and we had a new years party to get to, so we went to denny... There was lots of running water. No ice to speak of. light powder snow maybe 6-8 inches on top of the harder pack below. Good training day... Got my new boots a little broken in... the sun was out... but thats about all I could say for it. More hopeful for this weekend? If It doesn't get colder by tomorrow, I think we're heading to canada.


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Banks is in! led Troskys last night with headlamps and TR'd the cable. H202 is in. The cable is in. The Punch Bowl is in led that new years eve. The corner climb is in (IDK the actual name just down the road on the right hand side from H202. There is enough to stay busy.


Solid ice season if you put some work into it!

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Here is a pic from last night with Vern of the Punchbowl/Trotsky's. He may be a bit more optimistic than I but at least Trotsky's Revenge took screws. The Cable was a great TR but very wet and not quite touching down (although some ice blobs at the start made the mixed moves easier). Extra fun in the dark after work. ;-)

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There's no appreciable ice in leavenworth from what I saw yesterday. Nothing was climbable in the Icicle including Mountaineers Creek and Hubba Hubba. It was dark when I drove the Tumwater, so I can't speak to that.


If you're thinking of going up to Colchuck to find ice, don't bother. The only stuff I saw up in the mountains were those little bit up by Hel Basin and the usual tiny drips at Colchuck Lake. It's the driest and least icy in that I've seen in the last decade.

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Headed to Snoquamie Pass today intending to go to the end of snow lake again and climb some more ice lines down there but when we passed under "Flow Reversal" it looked uber fat and when we got around the corner and saw that "Source Lake Line" was finally looking pretty good for the first time this season we decided to head up there and climb it. The crux section was a fairly sporty hollow icicle matrix... some delicate climbing... for a short section... here are some photos... maybe a few of actually leading the thing later...there on another camera


Flow Reversal



The Source Lake Line








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