dberdinka Posted September 27, 2011 Posted September 27, 2011 I see you're in B'ham. I bought that thing at Hardware Sales. Thats sweet your rebolting at Erie, as it definitely needs a lot of it. Dallas Kloke and others might have put up a lot of routes but the hardware choices left a lot to be desired. A couple years ago I rebolted the 10+ route on the Powerline Wall with Hilti SS wedge bolts. I found that the broken nature of the rock at Erie made it extremely difficult to find a good place to put a new bolt. (the rock is seamed by micro fractures and hollow flakes everywhere). I've always thought Erie would be a good candidate for drilling out of old bolts using diamond tipped bits as described here Core Drilling then replaced with fat glue-ins. Seems like there are enough local organizations it might be possible to get a lump of money for drilling equipment (Mtnrs, Skagit Alpine Club, REI, guide services, etc.) and hardware. Radom thought..... Quote
smassey Posted September 27, 2011 Posted September 27, 2011 I agree with you on the glue-in idea. I just had ASCA 5-pieces, but I was pretty perplexed at times as to new bolt locations. Quite a few of the old ones were in loose/hollow rock. Did you do any of the other Powerline Wall work? There's a bunch of wedge bolts there, and I was wondering if they were all SS. I'm actually back in Vegas for the winter season - I just do summers up in the Ham. It would be quite nice to get a bunch of those local organizations involved, at least in the fund-raising dept. (The core bits are a little pricey...) With all the climbers in the PNW, I'm amazed at the poor quality of the hardware. Quote
num1mc Posted September 27, 2011 Posted September 27, 2011 Core drills are difficult to use, even in the smaller sizes, without a rigid fixture, pilot drill or hole-centering jig Quote
kurthicks Posted October 8, 2011 Author Posted October 8, 2011 Leavenworth Castle Rock Saber Ledge - 2 anchor bolts w/ Fixe rings 10/2011 The old anchor was a pain to remove, mainly because of the epoxy that was holding it in place. The four studs (5/16") all sheared off easily. Quote
mattp Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 I don't remember the dimensions of the Saber ledge but I think it might be a good idea to add another one, maybe three feet away, to help accommodate multiple parties or large parties. Saber, in particular, draws large parties and that is a belay spot for at least three separate popular routes, right? (I think Cat Burglar is less popular due to a "bouldery" start and there may be another route squeezed in there.) Quote
kurthicks Posted October 8, 2011 Author Posted October 8, 2011 I wasn't going to make that decision Matt, especially since a gear anchor can be built in the crack below the anchor on hand sized pieces (though it's annoying since it's at your ankles). Another anchor can be built up and left near the "fixed" hex. There are five routes that end on or pass through Saber ledge, though only two are popular (Saber and Canary). I think one anchor is enough...the new 1/2" stainless bolts are more than strong enough for multiple parties hanging on them. They have double rings so lots of folks can clip into them. It's also a bit up and left of the old anchor as the old bolts sheared and I couldn't reuse the holes. Quote
mattp Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 I understand, Kurt, and I don't mean to sound in any way critical. Thanks for making it safer and thanks for the work! Quote
Sol Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 I'd like to claim First Rappel Descent on Kurt's new anchors. Thanks Kurt, you da man!! Quote
Riley81 Posted October 11, 2011 Posted October 11, 2011 It was pretty nice to see theose ASCA stamped hangers on Saber ledge when I climbed Canary this weekend. Thanks Kurt. Quote
Jens Posted October 12, 2011 Posted October 12, 2011 Can we get some bolts replaced at Fossil Rock? It has some of the first sport routes in Washington State and is an amazing winter rainy day workout area. Quote
kurthicks Posted October 12, 2011 Author Posted October 12, 2011 I'll get some bolts and you can take me out there Jens! Quote
S1W Posted October 12, 2011 Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) Kurt, Big thanks for your efforts. Are you replacing bolts at local crags via ASCA? May be time to up my donation. Edited October 12, 2011 by S1W Quote
kurthicks Posted October 12, 2011 Author Posted October 12, 2011 I've got a good amount from ASCA and am expecting more in the near future. Quote
Off_White Posted October 13, 2011 Posted October 13, 2011 I'll get some bolts and you can take me out there Jens! Let me know when you're headed there, its only a half hour from home. Quote
kurthicks Posted October 20, 2011 Author Posted October 20, 2011 Index Thin Fingers - Pitch 1 1/2" stainless bolts with chains. 10/2011 Quote
telemarker Posted October 20, 2011 Posted October 20, 2011 You're a busy guy! Kyle and I were on Careno Crag saturday, and noted rusted bolts and chains at the first ledge above P1 of the Regular Route. Not a huge priority I guess... Quote
bwwakaranai Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 (edited) Clipped some new bolts at the Snag Buttress yesterday. Thank you for reviving these fun routes. Very professional job. Visions Of Doom could use some too. Let me know if I can help with some of the labor. Edited November 7, 2011 by bwwakaranai Quote
kurthicks Posted November 8, 2011 Author Posted November 8, 2011 you can thank smassey for those I believe. Quote
Hall Posted November 8, 2011 Posted November 8, 2011 I 2nd the need for p1 anchors Regular Route, Careno. Also Off Duty on Duty Dome has a Leeper sheet metal thing and a vintage '80s SMC for an anchor (3/8 studs, at least). Great route. Old bolts. I have some bolts, hangers, and Fixe ring anchors, but no power drill. I would be willing to put in some time/gear if someone has the power! Quote
smassey Posted November 19, 2011 Posted November 19, 2011 Clipped some new bolts at the Snag Buttress yesterday. Thank you for reviving these fun routes. Very professional job. Visions Of Doom could use some too. Let me know if I can help with some of the labor. Thanks for the appreciation. The buttonheads took a little work to get out... I'm in Vegas til next summer, but will probably be back at Erie then. Yeah, those routes need a lot of love - surprised there haven't been any incidents. Quote
telemarker Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 We climbed at 4th of July crag recently, and noted a few climbs worthy of some ASCA attention. 1) Facelift. The last two bolts are old with leeper hangers. 2) Beer and Loafing. The piton that protected an awkward move around the shallow corner pulled out while I was being lowered. The last pro before that piton is a couple body lengths below that. The hole from the piton scar does not look like it would take any natural pro, and the shallow corner is too pinched off. I think a bolt would be warranted at this spot on the pitch. Fun climbing that crag! A bit dirty but great routes. Is Kurt still actively replacing bolts? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.