danmcph Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Im looking at half or twin ropes. Who makes the lightest? It looks like the beal ice floss for twins and mammut for doubles. Anything lighter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BootsandPants Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Mammut Twilights are 7.5mm twins, and Tendon Master 7.8mm half/twin come in at 38g/m, which is probably the lightest you'll find. Edelrid also has a half/twin, but I think it's a little heavier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 funny, i was just getting some from Pro Mtn Sports today. It's weird that not many companies make a 70m. I would have gotten the mammut or metolius, but they only make 60s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielHarro Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Layton- The monster rope that Metolious carries is made by Tendon.. Tendon now imports more ropes into the US. Go to http://mytendonusa.com/ for all of their ropes including 70M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 thanks, but i ordered the beal iceline from Pro Mtn Sports. I had a gift certificate there and it was my best choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmcph Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 On tendons website it shows the 7.9 twin/half as 40 GM/meter. Is there another one I'm not seeing that's 38 GM/meter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obraz Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 There are two ropes: Ambition, 7.9 mm, 40 g/m and Master, 7.8 mm, 38 g/m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmcph Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 On the website I see a 7.9 ambition and an 8.5 master. Where can I look at the smaller diameter Master? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckfeet Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/monster_7-8mm_dynamic_rope.html I've got the 7.8s and a 9.2 and have been pretty happy. They have been fairy durable for the size and the middle mark is fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodcutter Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 I have the Metolius 7.8's and like them. Pretty stretchy on the raps though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aforslund Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 The Monster ropes are great. I like their middle mark a lot and the 7.8 at 38g/m is as light as I have found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro Mountain Sports Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 We put together a very detailed list of ropes and their weights. There is quite a bit of variation in what a manufacturer is allowed to call their ropes in diameter the UIAA allows for up to a .5mm either on either side. So, a rope maker could sell a 10mm as a 9.5 or a 10.5. Therefore we have decided that the best way to judge ropes equally is by their grams per meter. It makes for a level playing field. You can take a look at this chart Pro Mountain Sports Rope Chart We stock a pretty wide selection of ropes and have the Monster 7.8 in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obraz Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) On the website I see a 7.9 ambition and an 8.5 master. Where can I look at the smaller diameter Master? I thought about that site: http://www.mytendon.com/rope-tendon-master-7-8 Edited September 18, 2011 by Obraz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBC Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 How is the handling on the Monster ropes, particularly the 7.8? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Miller Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Hey PMS (Jim) thanks for the great demystification rope chart! Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodcutter Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Handling is rather good, supple. Make good pillows too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBC Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Handling is rather good, supple. Make good pillows too. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 FWIW I use and love the Beal Ice twins all winter. I'm on my third set. I figure two maybe three winters. If you climb much 3 is likely pushing them. Love 'um except when it comes to steep raps like off the Pencil or the Midi bridge...there or places like that they are a little sketchy. New Petzl Reverso helps some though. But the flip side to that is the they are a pleasure to carry in the alpine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 +1 for Monster ropes. About as light as Beal ropes but the dry coating just wont quit. Best dry coat I have ever used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Good info on the Monster, thanks. How are they to rap on? Also like the fact they are rated as a twin and a dbl, which I also did not know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 I have the monster 7.8's as well. Mainly just use them up in the Red Rock canyons. You may want to explore some of the smaller rap devices as I suspect it would be a bit unnerving rapping them on the wrong device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 what is the advantage of having a rope rated as a twin and a double over one that is just rated as a double? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 None if you aren't going to climb with them as halfs / doubles. In Red Rock I use them as twins (always clipped together) and I bought them for use as twins. People tend to use doubles / halfs when routes wander or they are worried about sharp edges - mostly often the former. I pretty much just use doubles / halfs for routes with sharp edges and because of that I don't use the 7.8's, but rather I bump up to 9.X's. It should be noted that learning to belay doubles / halfs takes time and some never really master it. It's a pretty advanced skill when its done well and typically an angstfest for the leader when it's not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Is there a situation where on a multi pitch (or a single pitch) where one would use the ropes as a twin and then switch to double rope technique? Or vice versa? My old school mentality doesn't see the benefit to having a rope that is rated with multiple uses. Maybe it means you need less ropes in the quiver. Financially, it seems like you can get 2 setups on sale for the same price as a special multi rated overpriced rope. I suspect the answer to my next question lies in impact force but why can't you use double ropes with twin technique? Seems like when climbing bolted routes, using doubles as twins is OK. Maybe the difference lies in climbing above small nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Is there a situation where on a multi pitch (or a single pitch) where one would use the ropes as a twin and then switch to double rope technique? Or vice versa? - climbing as a team of 3 on multi or alpine route - leader leading on both lines; clipping ropes as doubles - each follower following on 1 of the strands if the route had a pitch that traversed greatly I would consider switching to clipping both as twins as to minimize potential for a big fall for one of the seconds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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