Lightest half and twin ropes

[danmcph]

Im looking at half or twin ropes. Who makes the lightest?

 

It looks like the beal ice floss for twins and mammut for doubles. Anything lighter?

[BootsandPants]

Mammut Twilights are 7.5mm twins, and Tendon Master 7.8mm half/twin come in at 38g/m, which is probably the lightest you'll find. Edelrid also has a half/twin, but I think it's a little heavier

[layton]

funny, i was just getting some from Pro Mtn Sports today.

It's weird that not many companies make a 70m. I would have gotten the mammut or metolius, but they only make 60s.

[DanielHarro]

Layton-

 

The monster rope that Metolious carries is made by Tendon.. Tendon now imports more ropes into the US. Go to http://mytendonusa.com/ for all of their ropes including 70M.

[layton]

thanks, but i ordered the beal iceline from Pro Mtn Sports. I had a gift certificate there and it was my best choice.

[danmcph]

On tendons website it shows the 7.9 twin/half as 40 GM/meter. Is there another one I'm not seeing that's 38 GM/meter?

[Obraz]

There are two ropes: Ambition, 7.9 mm, 40 g/m and Master, 7.8 mm, 38 g/m.

 

 

[danmcph]

On the website I see a 7.9 ambition and an 8.5 master. Where can I look at the smaller diameter Master?

[duckfeet]

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/monster_7-8mm_dynamic_rope.html

 

I've got the 7.8s and a 9.2 and have been pretty happy. They have been fairy durable for the size and the middle mark is fantastic.

[Woodcutter]

I have the Metolius 7.8's and like them.

Pretty stretchy on the raps though.

[aforslund]

The Monster ropes are great. I like their middle mark a lot and the 7.8 at 38g/m is as light as I have found.

[Pro Mountain Sports]

We put together a very detailed list of ropes and their weights. There is quite a bit of variation in what a manufacturer is allowed to call their ropes in diameter the UIAA allows for up to a .5mm either on either side. So, a rope maker could sell a 10mm as a 9.5 or a 10.5.

 

Therefore we have decided that the best way to judge ropes equally is by their grams per meter. It makes for a level playing field.

 

You can take a look at this chart

 

Pro Mountain Sports Rope Chart

 

We stock a pretty wide selection of ropes and have the Monster 7.8 in stock.

[Obraz]

On the website I see a 7.9 ambition and an 8.5 master. Where can I look at the smaller diameter Master?

I thought about that site:

http://www.mytendon.com/rope-tendon-master-7-8

Edited September 18, 2011 by Obraz

[JBC]

How is the handling on the Monster ropes, particularly the 7.8?

 

 

[Dan_Miller]

Hey PMS (Jim) thanks for the great demystification rope chart!

 

Much appreciated.

[Woodcutter]

Handling is rather good, supple.

Make good pillows too.

[JBC]

Handling is rather good, supple.

Make good pillows too.

 

 

Thanks!

[Dane]

FWIW I use and love the Beal Ice twins all winter. I'm on my third set. I figure two maybe three winters. If you climb much 3 is likely pushing them.

 

Love 'um except when it comes to steep raps like off the Pencil or the Midi bridge...there or places like that they are a little sketchy. New Petzl Reverso helps some though.

 

But the flip side to that is the they are a pleasure to carry in the alpine.

[John Frieh]

+1 for Monster ropes. About as light as Beal ropes but the dry coating just wont quit. Best dry coat I have ever used

[Dane]

Good info on the Monster, thanks. How are they to rap on? Also like the fact they are rated as a twin and a dbl, which I also did not know.

[JosephH]

I have the monster 7.8's as well. Mainly just use them up in the Red Rock canyons. You may want to explore some of the smaller rap devices as I suspect it would be a bit unnerving rapping them on the wrong device.

[genepires]

what is the advantage of having a rope rated as a twin and a double over one that is just rated as a double?

[JosephH]

None if you aren't going to climb with them as halfs / doubles. In Red Rock I use them as twins (always clipped together) and I bought them for use as twins.

 

People tend to use doubles / halfs when routes wander or they are worried about sharp edges - mostly often the former. I pretty much just use doubles / halfs for routes with sharp edges and because of that I don't use the 7.8's, but rather I bump up to 9.X's.

 

It should be noted that learning to belay doubles / halfs takes time and some never really master it. It's a pretty advanced skill when its done well and typically an angstfest for the leader when it's not.

[genepires]

Is there a situation where on a multi pitch (or a single pitch) where one would use the ropes as a twin and then switch to double rope technique? Or vice versa?

 

My old school mentality doesn't see the benefit to having a rope that is rated with multiple uses. Maybe it means you need less ropes in the quiver. Financially, it seems like you can get 2 setups on sale for the same price as a special multi rated overpriced rope.

 

I suspect the answer to my next question lies in impact force but why can't you use double ropes with twin technique? Seems like when climbing bolted routes, using doubles as twins is OK. Maybe the difference lies in climbing above small nuts.

[John Frieh]

Is there a situation where on a multi pitch (or a single pitch) where one would use the ropes as a twin and then switch to double rope technique? Or vice versa?

 

- climbing as a team of 3 on multi or alpine route

- leader leading on both lines; clipping ropes as doubles

- each follower following on 1 of the strands

 

if the route had a pitch that traversed greatly I would consider switching to clipping both as twins as to minimize potential for a big fall for one of the seconds