Smith Rock Monkey Face swinger takes out climbers

[chrismael]

Too bad local hikers 25 years ago didn't eliminate all those grass smokin, lycra wearing, shotgun blastin, rock chippin, bolt placin Hippies. We wouldn't have any of this.

For now on,... I'm gonna belittle the parties who turn the pioneer route into a 5 hour epic, chastise all the novice climbers trying to kill themselves in the dihedrals, run off all them pesky tight rope people, plant restorative poison ivy to combat bouldering erosion, fixed ropes and draws???? I know a guy, we call him the Leprechaun, maybe I'll even stop any hikers going over misery ridge without the proper footwear.

 

Excuse the sarcasm, but several things have brought me to the point where I can't waste much more time here and humor carries me along. Plus it comes off better than vulgarity and name-calling which are classic indicators of a weak argument.

 

1. Many here have little understanding of the logistics of the swing,... actually, a few don't understand the basic physics of dynamic ropes, pendulums, and anchors.

2. There is a merit-less and false belief that most of the swingers are non-climbers or novice climbers.

3. It appears that one person and one only is responsible for this accident.

4. Oddly, most of the anti-swing rhetoric parallels the language we often hear from non-climbers about the risks of climbing, the same rhetoric many climbers use toward free-soloists. “I don’t know how they do it, I’ve never done it (or can’t), but they’re crazy and they’re gonna die.”

 

 

My admissions… I’ve always been concerned with how the public and managers perceive climbers in the park… I’ve acted upon this through donating time, money, and materials in projects that have no benefit to climbers but hopefully give us a little bit of “moral high ground.” This being said… When swingers, high-liners, fixed rope users leave there stuff up,… I should be more active in encouraging safe, quick use and removal.

 

The swing is best used by those who fully understand it, at times when the park is less populated, I should have expressed this view with those who were cavalier about the swing’s use. Of course people will hoot and holler, but it’s far better than listening to someone have a vulgar meltdown after falling off their project for the 20th time or a hiker yelling “don’t fall.”

 

The issue has been raised elsewhere regarding the presence of these “discussions” on a public forum and subsequent use by land managers as some form of “public comment.” While I detest all forms of “Backroom Democracy” I would at least ask for people’s earnestness and courtesy. But hey, these are the ravings of a adrenalin crazed, semi-suicidal, cliff diver looking for his next fix; right? And I’m doing it all from a café in Nigeria.

 

“Were all in this together, and nobody gets out alive”

 

[PellucidWombat]

While the rope swing could be done safely, leaving the setup accessible for less experienced or thoughtful people to use it in such a crowded location looks to me like an accident waiting to happen. I'm familiar with the rappel and that hillside, and watching the video of the swinger and imagining a rapp line in the way makes my stomach churn.

 

I admit I'm not impartial here, since Liz Redman is a close friend of mine. I'm glad to hear that the bolts have been removed.

[Lovetoclimb]

If I want to do that swing I would not hesitate to go up there and slam in new bolts. Good bolts! Ones that can't be chopped without a hacksaw or a cordless grinder! Glue-ins! The best bolts in the world! Would I take out anyone with a rope? No. Would I monopolize the monkey for a day? No. Competence and technical skill seem to be lacking at the crags these days. Just a bunch of kids with strong fingers and no idea of how to do anything they can't get off of with one rope.

 

I swing on ropes for a living. Do I take people out with my ropes? No. If I am worried about a rope snagging on something I put it in a bag and clip it to my harness. Problem solved. Was the person swinging a jackass? Yes.

 

Misusing climbing gear? For swinging? What is harder on a rope and biners? A bunch of little falls onto a bolt while hangdogging up a hard route or one big swing with a ton of rope out? The latter would likely be easier on the equipment because of the amount of rope out and the fact that the swing would disapate a lot of the energy.

 

I feel bad for the people who got hurt and if I were them I would be pissed. And I probably would find out who the swinger was and sue him or her. But that said I think that if you can do something competently and not endanger others then you should be free to do so. That is the beauty of Smith and the climbing there. It is somewhere that you can go, and do thrilling things in a beautiful place with no government agency looking over your shoulder.

 

I'm looking forward to going out to Smith and pulling all of the fixed draws that I hate so much. That is some shit worth pulling.

Edited July 28, 2011 by Lovetoclimb

[backclipped]

Your ranting needs to be shored up and made parallel. In one breath you call Smith a shithole not worthy of your time, and with the next you champion it's free spirited beauty. What's your angle, buckshot? You certainly don't lack in the entitlement category (although you seem to be quite depraved in the quality category). Just because one can do something doesn't mean that he/she should.

 

.....nothing like kicking a dead, plump and gaseous horse.

[Lovetoclimb]

My angle is this. People are free to do what they want at Smith and shouldn't have the "Climbing Community" of ya do it Ian folks deciding what they should or shouldn't do. If you are endangering someone else or ruining someone elses experience then obviously you shouldn't do it. Those two bolts out at the northeast corner of Monkey Face if used by a competent considerate person would put no one in danger except themselves.

 

I would bet that if the climbing community as a whole made decisions on things instead of the "ya do it climbing community" things would look a bit different at most climbing areas Smith included.

[Ian Caldwell]

That swing has endangered other people. And by the many anti-swinging rants here and supertopo and complaints State Parks has received it is ruining other peoples experiences.

[kevbone]

That swing has endangered other people. And by the many anti-swinging rants here and supertopo and complaints State Parks has received it is ruining other peoples experiences.

 

Every time I climb near someone who has their jambox playing music is ruins my experience. Should we ban batteries in the park?

[Ian Caldwell]

How many jamboxes do you see at Smith? People don't take them out because other people don't want to hear the music. Ipod and headphones is the easy solution.

[kevbone]

How many jamboxes do you see at Smith?

 

Not alot I do admit. But they have ruined my experience a time or two over the years of climbing.

[chris54]

Is this a respect issue to the other locals or is it really about the bolts? A bad injury happened and a couple people had a knee jerk reaction to it. Let's say Ian waited a week or so and talk to more people about this. Maybe held a meeting of some sort. Do you think this would still be such a bitch fest? Is the about the way it went down or the fact you can't swing on some bolts that can be replaced?

[letsroll]

I have an idea. Let the locals decide what is good for thier crag. Heck they person who put up the dam think thought it good to take down.

 

Game over.

 

 

[G-spotter]

How many jamboxes do you see at Smith?

 

Not alot I do admit. But they have ruined my experience a time or two over the years of climbing.

 

In the early 90s I walked all the way from the parking lot to the dihedrals with a full size ghetto blaster on my shoulder playing public enemy, then my D cells ran out before the sendage. true story.

[chris54]

How many jamboxes do you see at Smith?

 

Not alot I do admit. But they have ruined my experience a time or two over the years of climbing.

 

In the early 90s I walked all the way from the parking lot to the dihedrals with a full size ghetto blaster on my shoulder playing public enemy, then my D cells ran out before the sendage. true story.

 

Awesome!!!!!!

[jlag]

I'm a local and i support removing the bolts. I consider myself part of the community here.

 

JL

[RuMR]

How many jamboxes do you see at Smith?

 

Not alot I do admit. But they have ruined my experience a time or two over the years of climbing.

Everytime i see a dumb post it ruins my cc.com reading experience...

[alexbaker]

I'm amazed a jambox could ruin someone's experience. I could imagine some folks would be annoyed, but to let it ruin your experience...

 

 

[B Deleted_Beck]

i basically have to get a boombox and jam 90s white rap on it at the crag now.

[JosephH]

Every time I climb near someone who has their jambox playing music is ruins my experience.

Did I just hear the human jambox complain about someone's auditory excess ruining his experience?

[kevbone]

Every time I climb near someone who has their jambox playing music is ruins my experience.

Did I just hear the human jambox complain about someone's auditory excess ruining his experience?

 

What you read was sarcasm that apparently has gone over everyone's head.

[alexbaker]

I had never heard the word jambox before and couldn't help but comment. I use a music bag.

 

PS

+1 for Paul T.

[RuMR]

Every time I climb near someone who has their jambox playing music is ruins my experience.

Did I just hear the human jambox complain about someone's auditory excess ruining his experience?

damn, the old dude just laid you out!

 

[kevbone]

How do you figure?

[denalidave]

That swing has endangered other people. And by the many anti-swinging rants here and supertopo and complaints State Parks has received it is ruining other peoples experiences.

 

Every time I climb near someone who has their jambox playing music is ruins my experience.

Better not climb with/near Ivan then. Course, if'n his boom box don't kill ya, his singing will!

[backclipped]

In the early 90s I walked all the way from the parking lot to the dihedrals with a full size ghetto blaster on my shoulder playing public enemy, then my D cells ran out before the sendage. true story.

 

In the late 90s,while studying half cab heel flips and bong rips at SUNY Plattsburgh,I listened to Chuck D lecture about the history and future of hip-hop. A true and feckin' wicked story.

[B Deleted_Beck]

i was like "WTF does chuck D have to do with anything?"

 

then i realized that i'd confused house of pain with public enemy... i'm so glad the 90s are over.

Edited July 22, 2011 by bkb0000