Smith Rock Monkey Face swinger takes out climbers

[ScaredSilly]

This post should really be in access forum as well:

 

http://www.ktvz.com/news/28500142/detail.html

 

I hope the swinger has some personal liability insurance as they are probably going to need it.

 

 

 

 

[wayne]

bizarre, it isnt clear what happened. Any insight out there?

[billcoe]

It sounds like 2 folks had rappelled, most likely one was still heading down and either on the rope or about to disconnect but on the ground, the other climber was unroped and at the base of the Pioneer rap waiting, when someone launched on the rope jump. The jumper hit the rap line which swung the whole kabob towards the downhill side but pushed off the unattached climber, who fell over that little drop at the start of pioneer and then rolled down the hill.

 

The news people could screw up a wet dream, but if you watch this at 2:20 or so in and imagine another party just getting to the ground on rap, you'll see what I mean.

 

[video:youtube]

[Drederek]

Well thats one of the stupidest things I've seen people do.

Is there no anchor where the people fell from? Others have fallen from there with worse results.

[corvallisclimb]

As far as we understand, the swing was set up by someone who had only "seen" it set up before. The injured climbers had rapped to the ground, and most likely already had pulled their ropes when the swinger swung and somehow knocked the climbers off balance with the swingers rappel line. These are the details were still trying to figure out. They both fell, the woman falling to the base of Sheer Trickery. I guess she knocked quite a few of her teeth out, and was rather bloody. She was imediatly doped up when the paramedics arrived for transportation and was in critical condition after being boated accross the river to where she was then airlifted to the hospital, where she is expected to remain for at least a week. The bolts used for the swing will be removed tomorrow.

[Off_White]

The bolts used for the swing will be removed tomorrow.

 

Is that item on your agenda? good on ya if so.

[JosephH]

The bolts used for the swing will be removed tomorrow.

Is that item on your agenda? good on ya if so.

Good call. If people want to jump off shit they should learn to skydive and then base jump. Use climbing gear for climbing, jumping gear for jumping. It's always a bad idea to fuck around with climbing gear in this way.

[billcoe]

Well thats one of the stupidest things I've seen people do.

Is there no anchor where the people fell from? Others have fallen from there with worse results.

 

Stupid? There's 2 of these rope jumps on El Cap:-) I know I know, if your mother asked you "would you jump off a bridge if your friends did too"? Well, lets just say that I know the answer to that now:-) Personally, I just hope my kids aren't as stupid as me.

 

To answer the anchor question, there is a place for a natural thread, and a single bolt was added @10 years ago, they may have been feet from it. However, if what occurred is what I think, they were on level ground with their packs where the climb starts ...on a hillside, and would not have expected to have fallen from there and would be tossing their harnesses into their packs for the hike down soon. The hike backs away from the rock and gets into the parks trail system, while directly downslope, feet from the base, is a small 15' cliff. You can see the trail just below on the hillside in the pic below, this is my kid we were out there a couple weeks back. The people down there are either on the trail (left) or starting the Pioneer route (right). Directly out of sight under my son is a short cliff. You can sort of see the hillside dropping away to the left Drederek.

 

You can ask the rangers, but the stupid crap they routinely have to deal with, usually from hikers and tourists, is pretty lengthy. It's a popular park with lots of people all the time, and it generally works out good for everyone with a few exceptions here and there.

 

Regardless, that really sucks for the fallen climber, wish her well and a fast recovery.

[Drederek]

 

Regardless, that really sucks for the fallen climber, wish her well and a fast recovery.

Thanks for getting the important part.

[stevetimetravlr]

but Bill....the Alcove Swing will not floss climbers from the Wall. You would have to be doing a slab climb right beneath it for that to happen, and I really doubt anyone would swing if you were climbing there. Sounds like at Smith the jumper got a little over eager, and did not take into account that there were people beneath them and any impact rope tangling might have.

[markwebster]

My friend Joel is one of the first ones to set up that rope swing. When he was running it several of my friends did it, and it looked quite fun, and seemed relatively safe: if all the precautions were taken such as padding for the rope, back up ropes, everyone in safe positions, etc.

 

Rope swings have a long tradition at Smith, this is just the latest one. It does appear this one was badly managed, though since we weren't there, I don't want to speculate. Joel was out of town, but knows one of the victims and has been talking to him about what really happened, on Facebook.

 

In general, I've always thought that rope swings are a cheap thrill, better suited to beginner climbers who can't get their thrills on real climbs. Beginners, doing uncontrolled swings on high cliffs where they aren't experienced seems like a recipe for disaster, and here we have the proof.

 

Still, Smith is a place where beginners go, who am I to say what is right and wrong? I had a chance to ride the swing with Joel in charge, but I chose to go climbing instead.

 

Let's hope the woman recovers ok, it was a bad accident.

[JosephH]

Again, if you want to jump off stuff then learn to base jump - doing this sort of shit with climbing gear is pretty much guaranteed to lead to tears sooner or later.

[markwebster]

agreed. One of my friends who did the monkey swing is now into sky diving. A lot more air time, and better training for that environment.

[corvallisclimb]

The bolts used for the swing will be removed tomorrow.

 

Is that item on your agenda? good on ya if so.

 

No, due to some ongoing health issues I am not really climbing much unless its for $$$$ . But due to the concensus of a couple of "us" some freinds are up there right now taking care of businiess. Bill I gotta say comparing the Alcove swing to the Monkey swing is almost like trying to compare apples to oranges, not a lot of inocent climbers topping out on Simulkrime or whatever and getting swept off their feet by careless monkeys. I feel this case here almost borders the line of criminal neglegence, thought I don't think this is going cause any implication of restrictions through out the park, I do belive we as climbers need to police are selves to a point. I strongly feel often times also as climbers push the "freedom" we have a little too far. We all make mistakes here and there, but this is a big one, and thats what needs to be recognized.

[Ian Caldwell]

Today I removed the bolts at the top of the swing. I removed the two bolts Joel placed and there were two older stud bolts which I sheared off. I patched the holes with epoxy.

 

I have talked to several people about this, including Joel. Everyone thought removing the bolts was the best thing to do, including Joel.

 

 

[billcoe]

No, due to some ongoing health issues I am not really climbing much unless its for $$$$ . But due to the concensus of a couple of "us" some freinds are up there right now taking care of businiess. Bill I gotta say comparing the Alcove swing to the Monkey swing is almost like trying to compare apples to oranges, not a lot of inocent climbers topping out on Simulkrime or whatever and getting swept off their feet by careless monkeys. I feel this case here almost borders the line of criminal neglegence, thought I don't think this is going cause any implication of restrictions through out the park, I do belive we as climbers need to police are selves to a point. I strongly feel often times also as climbers push the "freedom" we have a little too far. We all make mistakes here and there, but this is a big one, and thats what needs to be recognized.

 

No doubt it was a huge mistake that the jumper deeply regrets, but can see this kind of thing in car wrecks all the time and we are left just wondering WTF?! My kid got hit by a car, same thing: WTF?! She was in a crosswalk, how do you get hit in a crosswalk?! She did. Was sent flying, shoes blown off her feet, lucky to have lived, her friend who was right next to her in the crosswalk was hospitalized. Multiple witnesses say they had the walk signal and were inside of the crosswalk. Very unsettling and unnecessary. Accidents happen. Only if we can get rid of people, cars, bikes, etc etc will we have less. Popular places always have more of them, and from all kinds of ways too.

 

Anyway, you might be right and the guy could have hit his own rap line left on Pioneer Tyler.

 

Hey, aren't you too young for "health issues"? Hope all is well Tyler, feel like sharing?

[rl23455]

I was over at Spiderman Buttress that day when I saw the ambulance come down the dirt road across the river. Later found out my friends actually helped stabilize the girl. There was a nurse (and paramedic?) on a hike and happened to be near when it happened. She had 3 teeth chipped out. I had heard they had just rapped from the nose. Seeing the video makes sense how the extra rope on the ground would snare them over the ledge at the nose landing. Also friends heard her screaming in pain on the water crossing. Noticed the helicopter took off real smooth and slow. I would say sue the rope swinger, but the young guy probably doesn't have any money...

[B Deleted_Beck]

Today I removed the bolts at the top of the swing. I removed the two bolts Joel placed and there were two older stud bolts which I sheared off. I patched the holes with epoxy.

 

I have talked to several people about this, including Joel. Everyone thought removing the bolts was the best thing to do, including Joel.

 

 

why?

 

ETA - apparently you're a ranger at the park.. disregard.

Edited July 14, 2011 by bkb0000

[JoeR]

Thank you guys for being proactive on those bolts.

 

This poor lady could be thousands of dollars in debt from medical bills now I'd bet. Any word on a fund being set up to help?

[corvallisclimb]

Today I removed the bolts at the top of the swing. I removed the two bolts Joel placed and there were two older stud bolts which I sheared off. I patched the holes with epoxy.

 

I have talked to several people about this, including Joel. Everyone thought removing the bolts was the best thing to do, including Joel.

 

 

why?

 

ETA - apparently you're a ranger at the park.. disregard.

 

Ya and he climbs with his pistol, so don't question the law!

[Ian Caldwell]

I work for state parks, but I am not a ranger at the park. This action was completely off duty.

 

Removing the bolts was an action from the climbing community. I talked to several locals including the person who put in the bolts(who was considering removing them next week). I did not ask every climber and I did not request input from bulletin boards.

 

There were many details about this swing which lead to the decision to remove the bolts.

[stevetimetravlr]

Thank you Ian for being proactive, and making the right decision and having the balls and the motivation to make it happen.

We(the climbing community) don't need the fallout from events like this going down.

[billcoe]

Ian, you can't make everyone happy: but you can make up your mind what is the correct course of action and then go out and do the right thing. Which is what you did. That's really good enough for everyone, and a few might complain, but don't worry over the rest. You know it was the right thing. Accept the thanks and ignore the usual bitching that will crop up.

 

Yeah, to the rest of you yahoos: I have grown kids who still accept and appreciate my advice. I'm just use to tossing it out there willy nilly, really can't help myself, and can't even stop myself once the lips start to flap. So what?

 

Take care all:

[Ian Caldwell]

1. I was thinking about safety of both people participating and other bystanders.

 

2. I was thinking about jeopardy of our privileges to climb (and highline) at the park.

 

I have many individual reasons, but they mostly fall into these two categories. And there were so many reasons which added up, leading to the decision.

[HerbalTee]

Thanks for all the hard work you put in Ian.