Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      Help keep cascadeclimbers.com going!  Please consider donating so we can keep this site going.   We have set expenses right now but no revenue.  We do hope to getting a sponsor to help out, but for now we just need funds to upgrade the site and pay for hosting and licensing. See the "DONATE" tab in the top menu.
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Mt. Torment - NW Glacier (Ski) 5/10/2011

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt. Torment - NW Glacier (Ski)


Date: 5/10/2011


Trip Report:

Daniel, Mike, and I skied Mt Torment’s NW Glacier today.


We left town at the early hour of 3AM, knowing it would be a warm day, and we wanted to get a jump on the cool morning conditions. We were able to drive within ½ mile of the Eldorado TH before being stopped by snow.


We found the steep climber’s path just across the bridge over Cascade River at 6:30AM. From here, we were able to boot it on dirt until about 4000’, when the snow began. We booted it another 500’ or so before donning skins and skis.


The approach up the basin was through mushy, isothermal snow, so we didn’t have high expectations for summitting. The higher we climbed, however, the cooler things got. From a muggy 50 degrees when we started at the CR Road, to almost freezing at the pass in Torment’s W Ridge. By the time we reached the pass, we were being supported by the crust.


The turns down towards Moraine Lake were divine, spring butter/corn with remarkably stable slopes. We heard avalanching in the distance off some of the icefalls on the Inspiration Glacier. There was some debris coming off cliffs in the distance, but we stayed far enough away that we wouldn’t be bothered.


From the 6700’ pass, we dropped 1100’ to 5600’ where we gained the entrance to a slot couloir draining into Moraine Lake. We knew this had been skied before and it looked great. Nonetheless, we knew we had limited time to get everything done today, so we marched on towards Torment’s NW Glacier.


Skinning conditions were pretty good overall. There were some small crowns on the way, so we tried to stay in the path of the snow that recently slid (yesterday).


We skinned to within 50’ or so of the true summit. The summit was comprised of slushy rime snice that seemed bottomless. It took us about 30 minutes to climb those last 50’. The views from the summit were amazing.


We spent about two hours around the summit area watching wisps of clouds roll over the divide, waiting for things to cool down a bit. All of the mountains of the Cascade Pass area were out.


We started back down at about 5:30, having given the slopes plenty of time to cool off. We experienced beautiful corn and wet powder all the way back down to 5600’.


Back at the car at 8:30PM for a long 14 hour day. No headlamps needed.


Trip stats:


9.5 miles

8300' gain

14 hours



Daniel and Mike breaking out of the clouds on the approach.



Our first glimpse of a wintery Mt. Torment.






Daniel and Mike gaining the 6700' col.



Poor little birdie didn't make it.



Daniel at the 6700' col.



Brewing up water at the col.



Daniel and Mike checking out the descent.



The view towards Eldorado and Klawatti.



The upper slopes below the summit.



Primus, Tricouni, Hozomeen, Jack.



Skinning up the final slopes below the summit col.



We took our skins off here.



Daniel and the summit pyramid.



Buckner, Boston, and Sahale.



The summit ridge of Torment, with Forbidden beyond.



Looking down the SE Face of Torment from the summit.



Amazing views!



Daniel making the last few steps to the summit.



Mike about to drop in.



Mike and I about to make some amazing turns.



Looking up the NW Glacier on Torment.



Booting back up to the 5700' col.



Climbing the last few vertical feet of the day.



Daniel and Mike in awe of Johannesberg.



Snowking from the col.



Torment's summit shrouded in clouds.



Mike and Johannesberg.



Booting the road at the end of a long, but satisfying day in the hills.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



whoever used the split board, was he using nepal tops to ride in? Did the bindings bite into the calf above the boot?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's always nice to see that the mountains are still there after a long winter. Looking forward to getting up there soon... thanks for the photos!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, nice off-the-beaten track ski! I've wondered about that torment basin route. Pretty easy to follow? Not too brushy?? Thanks for the report!!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

@Gene.. they are Nepal EVOs and he says he doesn't really have a problem with them, they just don't ride as well.


@Jason.. Torment Creek has a climber's path about equal to that of Eldorado.. minus the boulderfield.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to know, thanks Tom!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

drool ...


Somehow, I expected the upper nw glacier to be steeper.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like a sweet trip, great work getting after it. Things sure look different up there this time of year. Beautiful!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool, really cool...


Is every year possible to go to almost the top from the NW, or only this year because of the enormous amount of snow that had fallen?


Thanks for the pics!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites









Lhasa POW Stoke!!!




Edited by banos

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this