Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

      Help keep cascadeclimbers.com going!  Please consider donating so we can keep this site going.   We have set expenses right now but no revenue.  We do hope to getting a sponsor to help out, but for now we just need funds to upgrade the site and pay for hosting and licensing. See the "DONATE" tab in the top menu.
Sign in to follow this  
Tom_Sjolseth

[TR] Mt. Torment - NW Glacier (Ski) 5/10/2011

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt. Torment - NW Glacier (Ski)

 

Date: 5/10/2011

 

Trip Report:

Daniel, Mike, and I skied Mt Torment’s NW Glacier today.

 

We left town at the early hour of 3AM, knowing it would be a warm day, and we wanted to get a jump on the cool morning conditions. We were able to drive within ½ mile of the Eldorado TH before being stopped by snow.

 

We found the steep climber’s path just across the bridge over Cascade River at 6:30AM. From here, we were able to boot it on dirt until about 4000’, when the snow began. We booted it another 500’ or so before donning skins and skis.

 

The approach up the basin was through mushy, isothermal snow, so we didn’t have high expectations for summitting. The higher we climbed, however, the cooler things got. From a muggy 50 degrees when we started at the CR Road, to almost freezing at the pass in Torment’s W Ridge. By the time we reached the pass, we were being supported by the crust.

 

The turns down towards Moraine Lake were divine, spring butter/corn with remarkably stable slopes. We heard avalanching in the distance off some of the icefalls on the Inspiration Glacier. There was some debris coming off cliffs in the distance, but we stayed far enough away that we wouldn’t be bothered.

 

From the 6700’ pass, we dropped 1100’ to 5600’ where we gained the entrance to a slot couloir draining into Moraine Lake. We knew this had been skied before and it looked great. Nonetheless, we knew we had limited time to get everything done today, so we marched on towards Torment’s NW Glacier.

 

Skinning conditions were pretty good overall. There were some small crowns on the way, so we tried to stay in the path of the snow that recently slid (yesterday).

 

We skinned to within 50’ or so of the true summit. The summit was comprised of slushy rime snice that seemed bottomless. It took us about 30 minutes to climb those last 50’. The views from the summit were amazing.

 

We spent about two hours around the summit area watching wisps of clouds roll over the divide, waiting for things to cool down a bit. All of the mountains of the Cascade Pass area were out.

 

We started back down at about 5:30, having given the slopes plenty of time to cool off. We experienced beautiful corn and wet powder all the way back down to 5600’.

 

Back at the car at 8:30PM for a long 14 hour day. No headlamps needed.

 

Trip stats:

 

9.5 miles

8300' gain

14 hours

 

P1010162_resize.JPG

Daniel and Mike breaking out of the clouds on the approach.

 

P1010163_resize.JPG

Our first glimpse of a wintery Mt. Torment.

 

P1010166_resize.JPG

Johannesberg.

 

P1010168_resize.JPG

Daniel and Mike gaining the 6700' col.

 

P1010170_resize.JPG

Poor little birdie didn't make it.

 

P1010171_resize.JPG

Daniel at the 6700' col.

 

P1010179_resize.JPG

Brewing up water at the col.

 

P1010188_resize.JPG

Daniel and Mike checking out the descent.

 

P1010192_resize.JPG

The view towards Eldorado and Klawatti.

 

P1010193_resize.JPG

The upper slopes below the summit.

 

P1010200_resize.JPG

Primus, Tricouni, Hozomeen, Jack.

 

P1010207_resize.JPG

Skinning up the final slopes below the summit col.

 

P1010212_resize.JPG

We took our skins off here.

 

P1010216_resize.JPG

Daniel and the summit pyramid.

 

P1010218_resize.JPG

Buckner, Boston, and Sahale.

 

P1010226_resize.JPG

The summit ridge of Torment, with Forbidden beyond.

 

P1010228_resize.JPG

Looking down the SE Face of Torment from the summit.

 

P1010236_resize.JPG

Amazing views!

 

P1010239_resize.JPG

Daniel making the last few steps to the summit.

 

P1010250_resize.JPG

Mike about to drop in.

 

P1010255_resize.JPG

Mike and I about to make some amazing turns.

 

P1010262_resize.JPG

Looking up the NW Glacier on Torment.

 

P1010268_resize.JPG

Booting back up to the 5700' col.

 

P1010279_resize.JPG

Climbing the last few vertical feet of the day.

 

P1010287_resize.JPG

Daniel and Mike in awe of Johannesberg.

 

P1010288_resize.JPG

Snowking from the col.

 

P1010290_resize.JPG

Torment's summit shrouded in clouds.

 

P1010297_resize.JPG

Mike and Johannesberg.

 

P1010304_resize.JPG

Booting the road at the end of a long, but satisfying day in the hills.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice!

 

whoever used the split board, was he using nepal tops to ride in? Did the bindings bite into the calf above the boot?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's always nice to see that the mountains are still there after a long winter. Looking forward to getting up there soon... thanks for the photos!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, nice off-the-beaten track ski! I've wondered about that torment basin route. Pretty easy to follow? Not too brushy?? Thanks for the report!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Gene.. they are Nepal EVOs and he says he doesn't really have a problem with them, they just don't ride as well.

 

@Jason.. Torment Creek has a climber's path about equal to that of Eldorado.. minus the boulderfield.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to know, thanks Tom!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

drool ...

 

Somehow, I expected the upper nw glacier to be steeper.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like a sweet trip, great work getting after it. Things sure look different up there this time of year. Beautiful!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool, really cool...

 

Is every year possible to go to almost the top from the NW, or only this year because of the enormous amount of snow that had fallen?

 

Thanks for the pics!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

P1010250_resize.JPG

 

P1010255_resize.JPG

 

P1010287_resize.JPG

 

P1010297_resize.JPG

 

Lhasa POW Stoke!!!

SWEEEET!!

 

FKNA

Edited by banos

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×