Tom_Sjolseth Posted March 15, 2011 Posted March 15, 2011 Trip: Sloan Peak - Corkscrew Route in Winter Date: 2/21/2010 Trip Report: cmurph and I hooked up for a great climb up Sloan Peak last winter. We left Seattle at 5:30AM, Saturday morning under clear skies. The forecast called for nice weather through the weekend, despite predicting 15-20mph E winds at 6,000'. After a little bit of trouble finding the TH, we eventually were able to drive road 4096 to 2800' before being stopped by a fallen tree blocking the road. It was only 1/4 mile to the TH from here, so we were delighted to get so far in the middle of February! The trail is snow free until about 3100', where intermittent patches of ice and snow appear. The trail follows Bedal Creek and, before crossing the creek, we headed uphill due E at ~3600'. From here, the way is cross-country. We followed a basin to a ridge and followed it to the saddle below Pt 5330, between Bedal and Sloan Peaks. Along the traverse to the saddle, the snow was quite deep (knee-deep in places), and sloppy in the mid-day sun. It took us a lot of effort to gain the saddle, where we stopped and ate lunch overlooking Glacier Peak and its neighbors. From our lunch spot, we trudged on in knee-deep powder to ~6100' where we decided to set up camp. The views from camp were spectacular. We were able to see Big 4, Vesper/Sperry, Pugh, Whitechuck, Glacier, and many more. Since we arrived so early (2PM), we spent some leisure time around camp, melting snow, eating, taking photos, and enjoying the views. The sun went into hiding at around 4PM, at which time we retreated to the tent and layed low. After eating some more, we retired for the night and welcomed the 12 hours of sleep we were about to endure. We awoke the next morning at 5:30AM and slowly began to stir. After about 2 hours of remarking about how cold it was and eating and rehydrating, we decided to start moving up towards the start of the route. Still, the snow was deep, despite cold temps trying to firm the previous day's sun crust up. Much of the way across the glacier was in calf-deep snow. It took us quite a while to cross the glacier in these conditions, but we finally found the bottom of the ramp at ~9AM. From the bottom of the ramp, the route traverses steep slopes (to 50 degrees), before ascending a steep gully to the ridge crest. The exposure was big, and looking down we could see cliffs drop away 500' or more. The snow was perfectly stable and good for self-belays, soft enough so you could plunge an axe, but firm enough so you could get good footing. We felt good about the conditions. We arrived at the notch above the S Face (~7500') and saw the remainder of the way to the summit. It was more steep snow climbing. We made quick work of this and gained the summit ridge among cornices and rime ice. The final bit to the summit was exposed, but offered great views to the surrounding peaks. We spent a good half hour on the windless summit, eating, drinking, taking more photos, admiring the spectacular views, and reflecting on a great climb. These views were some of the best I have ever seen! Truly remarkable, I hope the photos can do it justice. Back to the car just after dark. I just want to congratulate cmurph on being such a trooper. She has not done much technical winter climbing before, and she really did an awesome job this weekend on an ambitious and rarely-climbed winter objective. Sloan Peak on the approach, just below camp. Bedal Peak. cmurph on the approach. Sloan Peak as seen from camp at ~6100'. Glacier Peak as seen from inside the tent. Photo by cmurph. At camp. Sunset from camp. Alpenglow on Glacier Peak. Bedal, Pugh, and Whitechuck in morning alpenglow. Morning light. Sloan Peak from camp this morning. Morning traverse across the glacier. A look up at Sloan Peak on the climb. Photo by cmurph. Me traversing into the sunlight. Photo by cmurph. Still traversing. Photo by cmurph. More views! cmurph heading up the glacier. cmurph in front of the Monte Cristo group at the col. The Monte Cristo group from the col. The traverse across the ramp. cmurph traversing. More traversing. And more. cmurph traversing steep snow on the ramp. A look ahead. All smiles on the way up Sloan Peak. Climbing through a constriction near the notch. Photo by cmurph. All smiles still? Nearing the col at the top of the gully. Looking down from the notch. Photo by cmurph. A gendarme on the summit ridge. A look towards Stuart and Daniel from the col. Steep rock. The summit amphitheater. Photo by cmurph. Me just below the summit. Photo by cmurph. A look down at cmurph nearing the summit. Me on the summit. Photo by cmurph. The views to the W from the summit of Sloan Peak. Summit shot! More summit views. Traversing back towards the col on the descent. Photo by cmurph. Quote
Off_White Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 I particularly like how the photo of the gendarme stacks with the one below it. Quote
mick_scott Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 Great report/images Tom. Do you think You could ski from the gendarme into the north facing basin with a good snowpack? I've only been up there in the fall. Quote
kukuzka1 Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 Great tick, im sure a winter ascent is rare. Quote
Alex Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 powderhound == sneaky! great weather and lots of nice pics! Quote
Rad Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 Gorgeous! Reminds me of a perfect day in the mountains I had on Sloan at the end of the 09 summer. Must return. Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted March 16, 2011 Author Posted March 16, 2011 Mick, I'm sure it could be skied, but not by me. I think with one rap the rest of it would ski nicely. Powerdhound, sorry, no pics of the W Face. That's about the only side of the mountain we didn't see. Not that it would help you a year later. Quote
powderhound Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 Mick, I'm sure it could be skied, but not by me. I think with one rap the rest of it would ski nicely. Powerdhound, sorry, no pics of the W Face. That's about the only side of the mountain we didn't see. Not that it would help you a year later. Just trying to get another photo from a different month of winter of that face, thanks for checking. Quote
John Frieh Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 Mick, I'm sure it could be skied, but not by me. I think with one rap the rest of it would ski nicely. Powerdhound, sorry, no pics of the W Face. That's about the only side of the mountain we didn't see. Not that it would help you a year later. If you came up Bedal Creek you had to see it. Come on Tom.. make with the photos! :laf: Quote
Stefan Posted March 16, 2011 Posted March 16, 2011 you make it look like a late spring ascent with the short sleeves Tom. Nice. Thanks for sharing! Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted March 16, 2011 Author Posted March 16, 2011 On our approach up Bedal Ck, the W Face was largely hidden by a subsidiary ridge and Pt 5716. We didn't go all the way up into the basin, we cut cross-country fairly soon after leaving the TH. I would definitely post a photo if I thought I had something useful for you. Quote
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