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Posted

Its my belief we need routes of all caliber and ratings. If everything was a sport climb how boring would that be. Reversely people can talk all day about how rad big runouts are....until they fall. I'm still healing.

Myself, some days I feel like getting burly and throwing down and some days I just feel like going casual and clipping bolts. Thank the good lord for diversity.

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Posted
Its my belief we need routes of all caliber and ratings. If everything was a sport climb how boring would that be. Reversely people can talk all day about how rad big runouts are....until they fall. I'm still healing.

Myself, some days I feel like getting burly and throwing down and some days I just feel like going casual and clipping bolts. Thank the good lord for diversity.

 

I like that way of thinking.

 

Especially

people can talk all day about how rad big runouts are....until they fall.

 

Posted
200px-Stop_sign_MUTCD_svg.png

 

thank you!!! totally wouldn't have posted this if I knew I was going have to read the last six pages. If you want to debate the merits of bolts, runouts,saftey, ands balls ect....go to some other countless boring thread on the subject.

Posted

Its easy to have an opinion about how to bolt (or not bolt) a particular line, its not so easy to defend that opinion. People go out and put up routes in whatever style they think is best at the time. We will judge them as we see fit. They may not be happy with our judgements. These discussions are important so future routesetters will have an appreciation of the spectrum of styles and their reception by our small segment of the climbing community. And then they'll do whatever the fuck they think best as they always have!

Posted
Its easy to have an opinion about how to bolt (or not bolt) a particular line, its not so easy to defend that opinion. People go out and put up routes in whatever style they think is best at the time.

I'd say your latter sentence is the perfect defense for the former.

Posted

Last time I was out at Beacon, Jim and I were going to do a corner lap. We stopped and looked at the East Side overhangs mostly to catch our breath I suppose. Jim says: "You got 3 routes here"...

 

I'm like "Really?" "Yup"...

 

"Well I don't remember any"....he kind of chuckles and goes "Remember The Alan Lester Memorial Hiking Trail"? ...

I was going to say no, what a dumb name. Then I remembered Gary and Bob letting me lead it (ground up, no bolts although I left a Leeper Z piton fixed on it somewhere) and naming that right after Alan Left the area.

 

Good guy. Nice to see he's still a Mensch. I couldn't get up it today. Unless Alan led and I followed. :lmao: Funny how his name has come up twice in such a short time. Southern Belle, that's bad assed on a whole nother level.

Posted
Its easy to have an opinion about how to bolt (or not bolt) a particular line, its not so easy to defend that opinion. People go out and put up routes in whatever style they think is best at the time.

I'd say your latter sentence is the perfect defense for the former.

Yah, ignorance is bliss.

Posted

oh shit, I just let it slip out I'm a sporty! I'll never be able to lift my head high again at Beacon....oh man.

I did see Jim out there last week, of course. and Larry was top rope soling some wild thing to the left of Blownout with one mini pro. Talk that boy into investing into one more, I read where someone grounded out using just one.

Posted

back to the original post about Southern Bell and the awesome thread over there. I was looking for pictures of Scott and found this website for the actor Jackie Chan where Scott Cosgrove(the stuntman, former climber) talks about how he no longer climbs hard because 30 of his climbing friends died.

 

http://jackiechan.com/scrapbook/206231--Interviews-with-the-Rush-Hour-3-Crew--Part-Three-

 

food for thought...

 

 

Posted

What is the food for thought - that gravity kills? It's the old Philly street saw - "fuck around, fuck around, lay around and bleed" or the venerable "if you can't do the the time, don't do the crime" at work. Sanitizing climbing isn't the answer - owning and adjusting your own behavior, needs, and choices is. Scott has clearly adjusted his.

Posted

There's room for bolted routes and X rated routes and everything in between in this game. Diversity is good. Cracks. Face. Knobs. Friction slabs. It's all good. Except for thin chimneys and offwidths for fat people like me. They suck. Bad. And steep sharp painful cracks, those suck too ........... unless you are in shape and then they rule.

 

 

Posted

In the interest of leave no trace, I don't believe there is need in this day and age for the further development of any new routes outdoors - the advent of indoor climbing has made climbing on real rock obsolete and so barbaric . :ooo:

 

/sarcasm off

Posted

actually I love all climbing, except for that really mossy chossy scary stuff Bill Coe does. The only thing is when I climb runout minimally proteced stuff, my nards shrink up and it becomes very uncomfortable so I have to place gear.

Joshua Tree at Christmas sounds great!

Posted

 

back to the original post about Southern Bell and the awesome thread over there. I was looking for pictures of Scott and found this website for the actor Jackie Chan where Scott Cosgrove(the stuntman, former climber) talks about how he no longer climbs hard because 30 of his climbing friends died.

 

http://jackiechan.com/scrapbook/206231--Interviews-with-the-Rush-Hour-3-Crew--Part-Three-

 

food for thought...

 

 

Odd quote by Scott Cosgrove there at that link. I assume that both Scott Cosgrove's are one in the same. The stuntman looks a little different from the Scott I knew, but the quote by Scott Cosgrove the stuntman is almost entirely about himself, and have little to do with little Jackie

 

 

 

Posted

We read the posts to that link. Stop it Drew:

"abdirahman

posted on Friday, Jul 09, 2010. my name is abdirahman i am7 grader next year i will be 8 grader so can you teach me kung fu i live in seatle in takwila iwant to be actor like yuo"

 

We see right through this. We may be Americans, but we're not as stupid as you think.

_________________________________________________

 

actually I love all climbing, except for that really mossy chossy scary stuff Bill Coe does. The only thing is when I climb runout minimally proteced stuff, my nards shrink up and it becomes very uncomfortable so I have to place gear.

Joshua Tree at Christmas sounds great!

 

Ha ha Steve! When your eyeballs start hurting cause the nads are pressing up there it's probably time to re-appraise the direction of your life. That is, they've up gone up into and and past your throat and are then trying to hide in your eyesockets or your brain.... it's bad. I gave that shit up and am looking for solid rock to get my head back. Even Smith seems sooooo solid. LOL!

 

ps, anyone want to see some empty bolt boxes? AKA, how I spent my summer vacation.

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