best of cc.com [TR] Index, Inner Wall - The Route of All Evil- 5.9. PG 6/21/2010

[summitchaserCJB]

You'll notice I asked if anyone had any other information on the route. It appeared in no other guidebooks. Just got unlucky.

[summitchaserCJB]

Maybe FAFM (first ascent for me).

 

Regardless, kudos for having a vision, cleaning, and sending. You're just getting flack because of your other obnoxious posts. Don't let the naysayers deter you from future projects.

 

And btw, I get to decide what is RAD and what is not. Period.

Hey rad, Thanks man. These guys don't make it easy.

[summitchaserCJB]

Thank you for doing some cleaning work. I always admire the folks out there doing there fair share of cleaning and route developement. Someday I hope to try and clean something up myself.

You should, it is fun. But careful about claiming even the most modest of projects as a FA.

[fenderfour]

there is still something cool about getting on a route that hasn't seen a climber in 10ish years. There are some classic lines waiting for a scrubbin. Look at Free Range Chook -

 

 

that shit is classic. Nobody cared because it needed a few hours of cleaning.

 

 

I had my eye on cleaning that myself! I'll work with you on that later this summer if you are interested.

 

You were thinking about cleaning Chook? It was done two-ish years ago. it might need a touch-up. A couple of the adjacent climbs have also been scrubbed at Shady Lane. Last year we re-chopped a trail heading over there from the main wall trail.

 

To get there: Head up the main wall trail, about 3/4 of the way up, you will encounter a steep broken face. The main trail makes a right along this face. To get to shady lane, head left and follow the face to some clean climbs. a dirty gully on the left end allows you to TR any of the routes.

[sobo]

...These guys don't make it easy.

It's not that us guys don't make it easy. It's that you make it hard upon yourself. Stop claiming FFAs/FAs on highly trafficked rock and being such a doucehbag when someone loses gear or when your beer gets kiped and you'll find that we're a pretty generous lot.

[denalidevo]

...These guys don't make it easy.

It's not that us guys don't make it easy. It's that you make it hard upon yourself. Stop claiming FFAs/FAs on highly trafficked rock and being such a doucehbag when someone loses gear or when your beer gets kiped and you'll find that we're a pretty generous lot.

Hell yeah, what he said!

 

[ryanb]

I'd say:

 

+2 for unearthing a fun looking moderate route.

+1 for attempting to name something after an Episode of Futurama.

-1 for announcing it to the world and discovering it had been done.

-1 for not scrubbing the corner next to it.

 

Still I'd say a net gain and I'd recommend following up on it by scrubbing and renaming the whole wall left of there down to and including the lower lump. Got to be some classics in there.

 

 

[billcoe]

Trip: Index, Inner Wall - The Route of All Evil- 5.9. PG

 

Date: 6/21/2010

 

Trip Report:

I cleaned and put up a route at Index over the last couple weeks. Most likely a FFA and FA but let me know if you know otherwise. Checked all available sources already. It's left of the 5.10d View from the Bridge. Overview. See far left.

Here are the pictures- Photos

Thanks Todd for the belay.

 

Gear Notes:

Two number ones, two number twos, and a yellow alien.

 

Approach Notes:

To the left of Toxic Shock at the Inner Wall.

 

What was your name going to be?

_____________________________________________________________

 

BTW, you dudes should all start putting powdered moss killer in yer chalkbags instead of chalk:

 

...or have your second carry a can and shake the powder all around.

[fenderfour]

I'd say:

 

+2 for unearthing a fun looking moderate route.

+1 for attempting to name something after an Episode of Futurama.

-1 for announcing it to the world and discovering it had been done.

-1 for not scrubbing the corner next to it.

 

Still I'd say a net gain and I'd recommend following up on it by scrubbing and renaming the whole wall left of there down to and including the lower lump. Got to be some classics in there.

 

 

You can't ding the guy for not scrubbing something. What have you scrubbed lately?

[G-spotter]

The real "Route of All Evil" is a famous sport route in the Virgin River Gorge.

 

Maybe you can call your next rescrub "Chain Reaction". I don't think anyone's used that name yet for a climb.

[AlpineK]

What about Godzilla. There's a good name.

[summitchaserCJB]

Great idea.

[summitchaserCJB]

+1 for being awesome

+1 for sending in the wet

+1 for drinking good beer

-1 for being a member of cascade climbers

-1 for not wearing Lycra

-1 for spray about a dubious previous ascent with no evidence.

 

 

 

[ryanb]

I'd say:

 

+2 for unearthing a fun looking moderate route.

+1 for attempting to name something after an Episode of Futurama.

-1 for announcing it to the world and discovering it had been done.

-1 for not scrubbing the corner next to it.

 

Still I'd say a net gain and I'd recommend following up on it by scrubbing and renaming the whole wall left of there down to and including the lower lump. Got to be some classics in there.

 

 

You can't ding the guy for not scrubbing something. What have you scrubbed lately?

 

Good point but that corner does look fun (if it ever dries).

 

As to what i've cleaned recently. Mostly bits of rock that fell off the better crags:

 

 

Some fun stuff though. The wide crack still (to my knowledge) awaits an ascent that doesn't end in head first dive into the pads below. If anyone is interested in an after work trip from seattle let me know.

 

[summitchaserCJB]

And people call my route crappy. Just kidding. These at Index? They look hard.

[spiderman]

Very good on you Summit Chaser, now you've got the idea. Make some fun of your self, make some light hearted fun of others, and just remember to have a good time on this site. Keep the TR's coming.

 

I'm very hesitant to claim a first ascent anywhere unless I'm bolting a new line. If I'm in the Mtns, it would require more research of old AAJ's than my lazy ass wants to put in. So I don't claim FA's.

 

I love to bust out my black spandex pants every year or so on a crowded day at Index. It's funny to watch the disgust in people's eyes when they realize my dick is hanging out for the world to see. But no-one...and I mean no one ever says anything about them. Why is that? LOL. I think there is a lot of good history in the lycra era. Call me nostalgic....or stupid....what were we thinking in the 1980's??????? Shall we have a lycra discussion, bashing spiderman in the spray forum?

[summitchaserCJB]

[sobo]

+1 for being awesome

+1 for sending in the wet

+1 for drinking good beer

-1 for being a member of cascade climbers

-1 for not wearing Lycra

-1 for spray about a dubious previous ascent with no evidence.

You haven't learned a fucking thing, have you? You're going to have your ass handed to you over that one.

 

I cleaned and put up a route at Index over the last couple weeks. Most likely a FFA and FA but let me know if you know otherwise. Checked all available sources already.

Oh yeah, this is rich. "Puts up a route" at a highly-trafficked area of legendary repute, and posts a TR the same day claiming the FA. I'm sure that you "checked all available sources" in that scant 3 or 4 hours from the time of your send to the posting of your TR. Stop being such a douchebag, will ya? It's takes a little more than a couple of hours to research "all available sources", or haven't you figured that out yet? Your research skills leave much to be desired...

[summitchaserCJB]

I'm OK at research. I guess I need to go beyond the guidebooks.

[sobo]

Um, yeah. Somebody else did that research already. That's why it's in the guidebook. Try talking to old-timers who've been around the crag for decades. There's a novel idea...

[spiderman]

I left myself wide open in that last post...and nobody wants to take the bait? Perhaps nobody wants to say anything because I'm hung, either like an elephant, or a field mouse. Ok...ok. Ya'll just aren't as much fun as you were the last few days. I'm going back to work now.

[Choada_Boy]

And people call my route crappy.

 

Your route. Such humility.

[summitchaserCJB]

Man, leave it alone dude. That's what we call a technicality. At least I didn't leave fixed lines sitting on it or put a string of bolts up it. I found zero physical evidence of previous ascents. In fact, there was a preponderance of evidence against any previous ascent. I cleaned off, not just a little layer of moss, but in some places a foot thick of moss. I trundled many blocks, uprooted ferns, ect. I was covered in mud and dirt. Take a look at the pictures. Any reasonable person, seeing it in its previous condition, would say it hadn't been climbed. It isn't in any guidebooks or internet databases. So, if it was a classic, or even a remotely good climb, why wasn't it in any guidebook?

[olyclimber]

There are plenty of climbs (good or bad) that aren't in the guidebooks for whatever reason. All it takes for a climb to be a climb is for someone to climb it after all. While you're set claiming your "firsts", you'll have better luck at a place less traveled. Mt Si Haystack or Inner Wall are not places where you can expect to snag a "first" if that is what floats your boat.

 

Anyway, i'm locking this thread. Take the shit storm to the thread in spray.

 

Thanks.