Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
rocketparrotlet

Index is hard

Recommended Posts

I sound like a broken record, but go check out Private Idaho and the surrounding area. Magic Fern (index 5.9) has a 5.10b boulder move to start, then goes to a wide-ish 5.9 hand crack. Battered sandwich has a section of wide layback/jam at th ebottom (bring a #5). Peanuts to Serve you is a few minutes up the trail. It has a section of #4. While you are there, you can climb Them at Wall of 10,000 Insects. It's pretty darn wide, but easy if you lieback it. Hard if you jam it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I definitely want to go up there- I've never been before. I'd love to lead Senior Citizens in Space as well- it looks amazing. "Them" looks tricky, but fun.

 

Is Aries pitch 1 a big sandbag like everyone says or do I just suck at wide cracks? Because I find it genuinely tough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Is Aries pitch 1 a big sandbag like everyone says or do I just suck at wide cracks? Because I find it genuinely tough.

 

If your hands are rather small, like some have mentioned, it will make it more difficult. For average size hands, it is a one-semi-insecure-wide-handjamb move to get a foot jamb, then it's over. Maybe you could get a knee lock :cool:. Practice - hand jambs don't have to hold your entire body weight to be good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You mean the chimney? I don't find it that bad but that's just me. Everyone else hates it. If so, I don't jam that at all. I just chimney and basically don't use my hands much. It's much easier that way. Just plug in gear when you need it.

You might not like them on lead quite yet. Many people report that it feels like 5.9+ (or just 10a).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You mean the chimney? I don't find it that bad but that's just me. Everyone else hates it. If so, I don't jam that at all. I just chimney and basically don't use my hands much. It's much easier that way. Just plug in gear when you need it.

You might not like them on lead quite yet. Many people report that it feels like 5.9+ (or just 10a).

 

I tried to lead the first pitch and had to pull on gear. I haven't even tried the chimney- it was the most miserable, just not fun rock climb that I've ever done. I want to enjoy my climbing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, to each his own. You are talking about climb 94 here right? Cause I watched you lead that clean? Index guide. Oh I see what you mean. Ya that first pitch is much easier with bigger hands. I assume-because I've never had small hands while climbing. Totally a one move wonder. But when you say "It was the most miserable climbing...." you are talking about the first pitch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You mean the chimney? I don't find it that bad but that's just me. Everyone else hates it. If so, I don't jam that at all. I just chimney and basically don't use my hands much. It's much easier that way. Just plug in gear when you need it.

You might not like them on lead quite yet. Many people report that it feels like 5.9+ (or just 10a).

 

I tried to lead the first pitch and had to pull on gear. I haven't even tried the chimney- it was the most miserable, just not fun rock climb that I've ever done. I want to enjoy my climbing.

 

Many can do that pitch but few actually enjoy it.

 

One, surprisingly popular, approach to it is to decided you are ready to solo it and then deck from the crux.

 

Short even steven and the variations (sticking to one crack or the other, avoiding the arete) are worth adding to the list of widish crack climbs...you need to learn to get just enough from your hands/forearms/chicken wings to hold you into the rock while you move your legs up... and be content with inch by inch progress as that is often all you will get.

 

Also, i seem to recall that you can get up battered sandwich without any hugh gear if you sling chock stones etc... some 2's and 3s and maybe a 4 would be enough big stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
well, to each his own. You are talking about climb 94 here right? Cause I watched you lead that clean? Index guide. Oh I see what you mean. Ya that first pitch is much easier with bigger hands. I assume-because I've never had small hands while climbing. Totally a one move wonder. But when you say "It was the most miserable climbing...." you are talking about the first pitch.

 

No, French-Freeing the first pitch was kinda fun in a weird way- it gave me a bit of confidence that even if I can't climb it fairly, I can just use poor technique to bail myself out of a bad situation.

 

I've led the dihedral clean 4 times, it's one of my favorite short routes and a terrific lead. The only pitch of Aries that I haven't led is the chimney.

 

The chimney, however...I followed it once and hated it to the core. It's the only rock climb I've ever done that I genuinely hate.

Edited by rocketparrotlet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Oh ya- completely solo-able. But true-very true-cannot be over-emphasized- the crux is the second to last move.

 

Please, stop.

yes, sir.

[video:youtube]

Edited by summitchaserCJB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The chimney, however...I followed it once and hated it to the core. It's the only rock climb I've ever done that I genuinely hate.

 

You probably hate it so much because you're just thrutching around in there. I had trouble jamming it, too, until I figured out I can just climb in like a chimney, with my left side facing the crack. Carry as little gear as possible, and sling it all to your right side. It's really just a few moves (for me) because I have long arms and once you can reach the top with your hands, it's over.

 

I thought it was fucking hard until I figured it out then it wasn't actually that bad. Certainly not an index 9, imo.

 

Good luck! I worked really hard to start leading 9's at Index, too. It was great when it all started coming together. And then I stopped climbing :laf:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, and fenderfour's recommendation to hit up private idaho is excellent advice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I feel bad about spraying this but I think the 5.10c on p3 of DH feels like Index 5.10a.

 

I think it depends on your reach, if you are short it's def 5.10c.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Best way to climb 5.10 at Index:

 

Drive by and head to Leavenworth for a long weekend. Day one do S Face of Jello Tower, Damnation, Scary Canary, The Bone, and Crack of Doom at Castle Rock. Day two go to Careno crag and do The Regular Route, third pitch of BK, Pocketmeister, Swingn Affair, and Exotic Dancer. Day three go to Pearly Gates and do all ten or so 5.9s and 10-. Realize there are far more quality 5.10 climbs in Leavenworth and go back to Index when you can lead 5.11. :brew:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rattletail is awesome, although the bottom needs a scrub.

 

AGC is also awesome, with a fun sporty pitch on top too. The second pitch has seen some recent gardening, but the first pitch needs a serious scrub.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rattletail is awesome, although the bottom needs a scrub.

 

There was a full-on waterfall coming down that wall when we hiked up to check it out last weekend. Hope it dries soon!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×