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Argus

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Everything posted by Argus

  1. Trip: Static Point - Lost Charms Date: 10/26/2008 Trip Report: Sunday DRep and I decided to give Lost Charms a go. After some recent posts, we weren't sure how far we'd be able to drive. We were able to get to the turn off for Static Point when we ran into the road block. After crawling through the roadblock, we encountered the next obstacle. Twenty-one new troughs, some of which are steeper than the climbing at static. We were beginning to feel unwelcomed. We had planned on taking care of some foliage on the approach, but forgot our machetes so that will have to wait until next time. When we got to the slab the wind was howling. We waited for an hour or so, but it never died down. We decided to give it a go anyway. We scrambled up to the Lost Charms tree. The first pitch was pretty easy, but the wind was making easy slab climbing terrifying. We managed to find the fixed pin and anchor, which had new hardware. DRep following pitch one: DRep led the second pitch up the corners to the ledge at the base of the pillar. I led pitch 3 up onto the bridge flake. I didn't think the gear below the crux would hold a fall, so I traversed left to the pillar at the crux and placed gear up high, then went back and pulled the crux. Just through the crux and onto the bridge flake: Lounging at the belay on the bridge flake: DRep led pitch 4 up the finger crack. This was my favorite of the route. There's a new yellow master cam (not ours)stuck up here for all you gear hounds. I could get it to move, but gave up after a bit. Pitch 5 led up more flake to the base of the great flake. The bolt here was a 1/4" button head spinner, so I had DRep send up the kit. There's now a beefy 3" stainless bolt. I think the original bolt should have been place 4' higher as a fall on the crux here would have you landing on a ledge, but I used the old hole anyways. Pounding away at the base of the great flake. At the top of the great flake we traversed left to a set of chains. I think these are the anchors at the top of Granite Jihad. We skipped the last pitch and began rapelling down Online from there. The wind made rapelling a serious chore, but after 5 double rope rapells we made it down. Gear notes: We used gear to 3", mainly small cams and nuts. Pitches 1, 2, and 5 have new hardware at the belays, 3 & 4 are natural anchors.
  2. Spotlights! We used to night climb at G1 all the time after work. Have fun Dave.
  3. Classic Index moderates on the UTW?

    FYI, you can't get from the top of the Timberjack to the next tier very easily. It would involve a 5th class dirt romp and would be pretty scary. Gorilla My Dreams is a much better option for this linkup.
  4. Classic Index moderates on the UTW?

    http://www.rcnw.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=12
  5. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/998316/FS_K2_World_Pistes#Post998316
  6. Index Sport climbs?

    DRep and I hiked up there once to check it out. It didn't seem worth the while once we actually got up to it. Plus, that whole southwest face had major rockfall a couple times in the the last year. The gully below the buttress was littered with debris and I didn't feel safe being below it.
  7. homemade rocketbox - car top carrier

    You can just use google. Just type the following into the search bar. Yakima Basket site:craigslist.org That will search the entire craigslist domain.
  8. smith theif

    Cool,thanks for backing him up. They looked very similar with the hats and all. I took his pic down.
  9. smith theif

    Who thinks this is the same guy?
  10. It looks like they traversed from the saddle out to the bowl on the north side, then ran out of time after climbing for a bit and traversed back to the west ridge and back down to the saddle. P.S. It's in the Madison Range, not the Missions.
  11. Index nearest emergency center

    Not sure it has ever returned back to normal.
  12. I think the red circle is where the pin is and the green circle is where the anchor is located. It's been a couple of years, so don't quote me on it.
  13. The pin was there a couple of years ago when I climbed it. I think it's in the thin overlap out in the middle of the face.
  14. Index is hard

    You should try Rattletale.
  15. Rain at Index today 5/24

    It's 5.8 according to Cummins. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/itwrat.htm 5.10c according to Cash. http://www.summitpost.org/image/320307/236229/them.html
  16. Been to Darrington lately?

    What beach can you go to that doesn't have any water?
  17. Index Fund Update

    I don't think there are any laws in Index. You may have a hard time keeping the soggy bottom boys from drinking all your beer though.
  18. Red Rocks, NV- beta solicitation

    EDK for rappels.
  19. It would be hard to justify getting into that chimney after seeing the steep sweet jugs out left. There's a very nice chimney on the frontside of Disappearing Buttress. It's the 1st pitch of Missing Nothing and is a tad bit easier than anything on Epinephrine, but would be good practice. There's also a tree at the top that you could set up a rappel.
  20. Red Rocks March 1 and/or 2

    Any particular routes you're thinking of? Might be able to sneak out of work for a day.
  21. Fav Climb Nobody Talks About

    True statement about the approaches. I think Black Dagger and Armatron are a couple of the best routes I have done there.
  22. Power drilling in Wilderness Areas

    We should rap bolt it with a power drill.
  23. Mountain Loop Highway

    There road is open. Snow level was very high up there last Sunday. We had to hike to 4,000' on north facing terrain until we hit snow.
  24. snow cougar sighting

    Winner http://lange2009.freeskier.com/profiles/profile.php?user_id=23694&screen=posts
  25. Cheap places to stay in Vegas

    Further from Vegas, but so much closer to the awesome Mountain Springs Saloon. Vegas is hurting right now, so you should be able to find a deal. If you're staying during the week, you should be able to get a hotel room for $25/night or so. Weekends are a different story. You couldn't pay me to stay at the campground.
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