SW Rib of SEWS: #5 Camalot?

[kinnikinnick]

I hate to fish for beta but my motivation is entirely economical: is a #5 Camalot needed for the alpinist of average ability on the bear hug pitch of the Southwest Rib of South Early Winters? I've heard mixed reports...

[fenderfour]

no.

 

If you hump the middle of the cracks, it's super secure.

[Crillz]

Not worth the extra weight.

 

Single rack through #4 BD should be good.

[lazyalpinist]

I'm average.

 

The climbing on the bear hugs was not difficult and was short (10'?) But the cracks don't really take gear smaller than a #5. (There is a spot in the back of the left crack where you can get a #4 in but that is due to a loose flake making up the difference in size.) When entering the bear hugs, you'll have a small cam at your feet IIRC. So depends on how comfortable you are with the climbing.

 

PS, we used the #5 on the flake pitch as well. (Although not needed there.)

[ColinB]

I second fenderfour on that one. Humphumphump. Plus when I climbed it, my partner found someone else's older #4 lying at the bottom of the bearhug pitch which was kickass considering our rack only went to #3...

[powdrx]

I am quite average. I brought and used the #5 on the White Flake Pitch and then used it again on the Bear-Hug pitch. A #4 works fine on both pitches, but I liked the #5 on the Flake. Approach is not far, so if you have it, bring it and if nothing else, training weight!!

[summitchaserCJB]

Sounds like it's worth bringing to me.

[johnson]

We felt that the grade was soft for the entire climb. Biggest piece we brought was a 4 and although its not the ideal piece on the Bear Hug section, it works...

[goatboy]

I wouldn't even dream of bringing it for about 1-2 moves that are really secure and straightforward.

[mountainsloth]

you'll be fine. definitely soft for the grade. fun route. forget the #5

[tomtom]

 

Old #5 or new #5? Worthless advice without noting the difference.

[crimper]

i led this one, and as i only touch a granite once maybe twice a year (living in oregon with a couple toddlers) i usually get humbled when i leave the basalt. so i brought a new 4 and old 5 with me. i placed them both and it made the moves as safe as can be. also, the climbing was much easier than i expected, and i think i was even smiling with relief as i exited the wideness. but a fall without that 5 in up higher would smack you right on an unavoidable ledge, no doubt about it, so if you worry about that kind of thing (i do) i'd say bring the gear. but if smacking a ledge concerns you less than the extra pound or whatever, leave the gear at home. have fun!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

i led this one, and as i only touch a granite once maybe twice a year (living in oregon with a couple toddlers) i usually get humbled when i leave the basalt. so i brought a new 4 and old 5 with me. i placed them both and it made the moves as safe as can be. also, the climbing was much easier than i expected, and i think i was even smiling with relief as i exited the wideness. but a fall without that 5 in up higher would smack you right on an unavoidable ledge, no doubt about it, so if you worry about that kind of thing (i do) i'd say bring the gear. but if smacking a ledge concerns you less than the extra pound or whatever, leave the gear at home. have fun!

 

I take it from the discussion that a new C4 #5 would not work?

[lazyalpinist]

I take it from the discussion that a new C4 #5 would not work?

 

We used a new #5. Judging from the OP, he is hoping not to buy a #5, which I'd assume if he was buying one would be new, not old #5. New #4 was a little shaky in the bear hugs.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I take it from the discussion that a new C4 #5 would not work?

 

We used a new #5. Judging from the OP, he is hoping not to buy a #5, which I'd assume if he was buying one would be new, not old #5. New #4 was a little shaky in the bear hugs.

 

cool, thanks.

[Crillz]

Just lieback that shiznit. There's no bear hugging.

[jordansahls]

No need for the #5. The bear hug pitch is soft and unexposed with amazing foot and hand holds. However, if you don't mind hauling the extra gear and it makes you feel more comfortable then go for it.

 

This view from the belay should give you an idea about the length and nature of the pitch:

 

 

[kinnikinnick]

looks cruiser! thanks all for the beta.

[crimper]

cruiser is right. i had more trouble a bit lower when trying to commit to the 5.6plus friction crux until i realized i could traverse right to an easier crack and bypass those moves (didn't leave any gear in it so my partner could just head straight up through the friction crux). but if you are used to granite i'm sure it's not a big deal.

 

and for what it's worth, the west face of the spire to the left (north? south? whatever is to the left) was a cleaner, steeper, prouder line that any 5-9 leader can get through with a little french freeing. but maybe you know that already....

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

God, that looks beautiful!

 

Damn this rain!

[fenderfour]

God, that looks beautiful!

 

That's not beautiful. It's some guy's taint.

[geoff]

How about 1 new #6 camalot, since I do not have a #4 or #5? Don't really want to free solo the wide stuff.

 

Thanks

[genepires]

The new #6 is about the same as a old #5? If so, the #6 will work for that pitch. You may need to climb a move or two into it before you can get it in though.

[kinnikinnick]

climbed this route last week and a rack of camalots from .3-4 worked well.

[summitchaserCJB]

RAD- Can I have your autograph?