best of cc.com [TR] Mt Si Haystack - FA- Dull Pickels 4/1/2010

[Blake]

I thought this one was pretty funny -

 

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/5720187/

 

Regarding new routes in the Cascades being of good quality or not, I think that proof is in the pudding. Go climb some of the new routes and then spray away, or dismiss them out of hand and miss out...

 

There's certainly still room for excellent new routes being put up, from Acid Baby at Aasgard Pass, to the Scoop at CBR, and Roan Wall or Salish Peak. Heck, look at Darin's NW Arayete route on Mt. Shuksan. It's been repeated at least a half-dozen times already and is a great route. Alpinist ran a story about it, because that's what alpinist publishes... Alpinism. If the FA party of any of these routes hadn't used the internet to spread word and spray about these climbs, I and others would have missed out on some unforgettable days in the mountains on the CLASSIC new routes!

 

I'm kinda curious what new routes are being alluded to as "soft" grade IV climbs to warrant an AAJ blurb. The few grade IV and V routes I've done in the USA outside of Washington have all taken less time than the grade IV routes around the Cascades. And I'm not talking about aid routes that now go free (and faster) I mean routes originally done as free climbs. Vague generalizations are easy, specifics a little harder...

 

 

 

 

 

[kukuzka1]

theirs still plenty of good new routes to be done in the cascades. classics? probibly not? their still climbing new routes in the alps and they have a 100+ years on the cascades. old timers think theyve checked it all out and theirs nothing left. done a couple gd 4s in red rocks and took 6+ hours

Edited April 6, 2010 by kukuzka1

[Gym Wickedwire]

I don't think anyone is questioning the quality of the new routes, they're questioning the quality of the spray that's often associated with them.

 

[Crack]

Wow -no "Kayfire" on this thread yet?

[el jefe]

I think that proof is in the pudding.

 

blake, i think the saying goes "the proof of the pudding is in the tasting" -- unless they've got some other, upside-down way of saying it down in n.z.

[Blake]

I think that proof is in the pudding.

 

blake, i think the saying goes "the proof of the pudding is in the tasting" -- unless they've got some other, upside-down way of saying it down in n.z.

 

To quote my favorite Yogi "I never said most of the things I said."

 

All I mean is, go climb the East Face of Gunsight, The Scoop on CBR, The North Face on Castle, or the Thread of Ice on Twin Needles and then see what you think about complementary descriptions of these new routes.

 

And as far as "classic" status... I think the word has come to mean excellent or memorable, not just a tried-and-true favorite. But for reference, both of the Cascades Selected Classics books (Nelson and Kearney) include routes put up by the authors, and by others, which had not seen a second ascent at the time of their inclusion. So describing an unrepeated route as a classic is neither unusual or new.

[JoshK]

clas·sic   /ˈklæsɪk/ Show Spelled[klas-ik] Show IPA

–adjectiveAlso, classical (for defs. 1–5, 8, 10).

1.of the first or highest quality, class, or rank: a classic piece of work.

2.serving as a standard, model, or guide: the classic method of teaching arithmetic.

3.of or pertaining to Greek and Roman antiquity, esp. with reference to literature and art.

4.modeled upon or imitating the style or thought of ancient Greece and Rome: The 17th and 18th centuries were obsessed with classic ideals.

5.of or adhering to an established set of artistic or scientific standards ror methods: a classic example of mid-Victorian architecture.

6.basic; fundamental: the classic rules of warfare.

7.of enduring interest, quality, or style: a classic design; classic clothes.

8.of literary or historical renown: the classic haunts of famous writers.

9.traditional or typical: a classic comedy routine.

10.definitive: the classic reference work on ornithology.

11.of or pertaining to automobiles distinguished by elegant styling, outstanding engineering, and fine workmanship that were built between about 1925 and 1948.

–noun

12.an author or a literary work of the first rank, esp. one of demonstrably enduring quality.

13.an author or literary work of ancient Greece or Rome.

14.classics, the literature and languages of ancient Greece and Rome (often prec. by the).

15.an artist or artistic production considered a standard.

16.a work that is honored as definitive in its field: His handbook on mushrooms is a classic.

17.something noteworthy of its kind and worth remembering: His reply was a classic.

18.an article, as of clothing, unchanging in style: Her suit was a simple classic.

19.a typical or traditional event, esp. one that is considered to be highly prestigious or the most important of its kind: The World Series is the fall classic of baseball.

20.Archaic. a classicist.

 

Or in other words, who cares.

[Josh Lewis]

I was there that day going up and down Mount Si over and over, I gained 7,000 feet that day with 18.4 miles of distance. I wonder if I saw you up there.

[summitchaserCJB]

What? You were? I don't think I saw you. I left the TH around 10.

[telemarker]

Has this TR achieved classic status yet?

[summitchaserCJB]

At very least it generated some discussion.

[el jefe]

classic.

[el jefe]

I don't think anyone is questioning the quality of the new routes, they're questioning the quality of the spray that's often associated with them.

 

there's no questioning the quality of the spray, gym. it is definitely spray, and spray of a very significant standard as well.

[Dane]

What? You were? I don't think I saw you. I left the TH around 10.

 

Dan? Dan -?

[kayfire]

In the annals of gay-ass posts, this one goes down as perhaps the gayest of them all. Holy shit, love this description: “Climb partway up the gully, then mount the face and move up to an interesting chimney with good stemming and good cracks for camming/pro if you aren't soloing.” I think all route descriptions should have in them the line “then mount the face.” Rad. And then this line: “It may have been climbed before, and maybe even in winter (ya think?). But not too much cause there was a ton of loose rock.” If loose rock were a prime indicator of whether a route had been climbed before, then I likely have the FA of a number of peaks. Glad the first ascensionist had fun and all, but what a pretentious TR claiming a FA, on the flipping Haystack no less. CC.com--continuous comic relief!

 

[olyclimber]

lol. "mount the face"...that is pretty good!

[summitchaserCJB]

Nice TR's Kayfire. Oh ya, you don't have any! Thats right! Try getting off the couch once. It will do you good.

Edited April 17, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[summitchaserCJB]

Edited April 17, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[Crack]

BERN!!

[kayfire]

Nice TR's Kayfire. Oh ya, you don't have any! Thats right! Try getting off the couch once. It will do you good.

 

Uh, yeah…ok. Apparently you think climbing prowess is directly proportional to the number of TRs one posts on cc.com; or perhaps you think that one can obtain climbing prowess by posting TRs—in either instance you are wrong. Lots of folks out there climbing SICK shit, and not spraying about it all over the Internet—the Hanselator for one is someone who comes to mind.

[summitchaserCJB]

In the annals of gay-ass posts, this one goes down as perhaps the gayest of them all. Holy shit, love this description: “Climb partway up the gully, then mount the face and move up to an interesting chimney with good stemming and good cracks for camming/pro if you aren't soloing.” I think all route descriptions should have in them the line “then mount the face.” Rad. And then this line: “It may have been climbed before, and maybe even in winter (ya think?). But not too much cause there was a ton of loose rock.” If loose rock were a prime indicator of whether a route had been climbed before, then I likely have the FA of a number of peaks. Glad the first ascensionist had fun and all, but what a pretentious TR claiming a FA, on the flipping Haystack no less. CC.com--continuous comic relief!

Hey Moderators, whatever happened to not spraying in TR's.

[kayfire]

In the annals of gay-ass posts, this one goes down as perhaps the gayest of them all. Holy shit, love this description: “Climb partway up the gully, then mount the face and move up to an interesting chimney with good stemming and good cracks for camming/pro if you aren't soloing.” I think all route descriptions should have in them the line “then mount the face.” Rad. And then this line: “It may have been climbed before, and maybe even in winter (ya think?). But not too much cause there was a ton of loose rock.” If loose rock were a prime indicator of whether a route had been climbed before, then I likely have the FA of a number of peaks. Glad the first ascensionist had fun and all, but what a pretentious TR claiming a FA, on the flipping Haystack no less. CC.com--continuous comic relief!

Hey Moderators, whatever happened to not spraying in TR's.

 

I think the Mods recognize that, even by the most liberal of definitions, this TR is anything but; hence, the post is subject to being sprayed upon. Actually, a noun that better describes this thread rhymes with the word "hit," and has something to do with excrement. Any guesses?

 

Seriously though--I'm just giving you a bad time. While your TR and claim of an FA are pretty silly, I'm not sure that, as a newbie climber, I wouldn't have had the inclination to post something similar had I thought that I'd managed an FA. Just tone it down a few notches dude; other than your propensity for getting riled and making yourself look a bit pretentious, I'm sure your an okay guy.

[rob]

kinda douchy following him to his TR to make fun of him, especially when there are ample opportunities available in spray. This is the "public face" of cc.com so don't shoot your load all over it.

[Off_White]

Hey Moderators, whatever happened to not spraying in TR's.

 

Not my forum, or I'd weed it out. Rob's absolutely right, Spray doesn't belong in TR's, and this isn't just a little light ribbing among friends.

[summitchaserCJB]

It's more than a light ribbing. You guys are harsh as hell. Like a PhD committee or something.