Gym Wickedwire

Sounds like the intro to a David Lynch film...

Eggs scrambled runny with smoked baby oysters, sharp cheddar and chopped spinach mixed in. Bacon medium rare, plenty chewy and a little stringy. Garnish with Rainier or, when in season, Rainier Ice.

In most cases lumber does not need support, it holds itself up. Wood that is not self-supporting could indicate a medical problem. Have you tried bending the aluminum stay to give the pack a more pronounced shape in the lower back area?

Lord Albert, I agree wholeheartedly, and I beg your forgiveness for correcting you, but I believe you meant to say "halcyon" days. This is how it is spelled, in the Queen's land and on the vulgar continent we inhabit. It appears that halcion is a sleeping drug, which would make for quite a boring history indeed! As for the falcons, they did not appear to have success nesting on Snow Creek Wall last year. Late in the season I saw parts of a dead bird looking very much like a falcon near their ledge. I also saw pieces of broken egg. It appears they did not protect the traverse properly.

Doesn't sound like you're climbing with a full rack at all.

For sale: 2 Trango Flex cams and one DMM Wales 4cu, $20 each or $50 for all 3. All were purchased new and have seen limited use. None have sustained falls. All are in fine shape and ready for use. The Trangos are size 1 and 2, close to finger size. There is a .3 BD in one photo for comparison. The stems are slightly bent but they are in fine working condition. The DMM cam is a bit bigger than a BD #3, about the size same size as the old BD 3.5. There's a #3 BD in one photo for comparison. $20 each or $50 for all three. For sale in the Seattle greater area, or near Index or Leavenworth.

This is short and a bit amateur, but truly one of the most inspiring and CLASSIC pieces of footage I've seen. http://www.youtube.com/user/colinjbartholomew#p/a/u/0/X-UT9IPLqYE

When you round Mountie corner you're supposed to honk and wave, not stop and climb.

Carrying a cell phone in the backcountry is a good idea, but it's really not that effective in avy scenarios unless you are wearing your bluetooth headset. Victims who were wearing bluetooths when a burial occurred where able to dial for help 43% more often than those using conventional cell phones.

I've had this problem with softer boots (Trangos in my case). The Petzl crampons with the Spirlock bindings are a much better way to go IMO. No heel pressure, but still a pretty strong binding.

I don't think anyone is questioning the quality of the new routes, they're questioning the quality of the spray that's often associated with them.

Is that really a photo of Squamish? It looks a lot like Renton granite to me...

Faux Doorish Twitter account!? Wish I had thought of that one. I did find a possible Doorish relic last year - empty Jack Daniels bottle stamped 1984, located near some of his (un)reported FAs from that time period. DNA testing has been inconclusive. Disclaimer: That vid's not my work, I've just seen it passed around through some folks in California (surprisingly). And I thought she said "blight" at the end?

Yeah, yeah. You can't really claim something is classic after one ascent though. Have you seen this? http://www.xtranormal.com/profile/2097999/

I've been using the Silberhorn's predecessor (Cristallo GTX) for a few seasons now. The only important difference I can see is that the new version has a leather upper while mine is synthetic (Cordura I believe). I've found them to be very warm and comfortable on colder routes in the Cascades and not so cold routes in AK. They perform pretty well on ice and I have not had problems with the tongue sliding (often a problem with my boots) because the inner tongue is velcroed to outer piece and you can adjust it as needed. Overall it is very comparable to the LaSportiva Nepal, but maybe a bit warmer. For me they fit way better than the LaSportivas (wider, flatter feet). They've seen a fair amount of use and seem to be holding up just fine; I'm really happy with Lowa's quality. For ice, winter and spring climbing in WA and routes on Rainier I'd say the Silberhorns are a good choice.

"It may have been climbed before, and maybe even in winter. But not too much cause there was a ton of loose rock. The rock was covered with snow so finding placements was a little desperate in a couple places." At least you didn't claim it was the newest alpine super classic, like so many other reported "FAs" on this site... Way to get out there anyhow.

I didn't make the world the way it is, Steven Seagal. I'm just trying to get through it, as fast and as clean as possible.

Anybody interested in giving the North Ridge a shot in the coming weeks? Reportedly road 9737 is open at least most of the way to the trailhead. I've climbed the North Ridge a couple times in summer, and I've climbed similar routes in mixed conditions in the recent past. I'd like to use skis on the approach to avoid too much postholing. I think it could go from a bivy near Goat Pass or even in a long day from the car. Fire me an email if you're interested.

Alright, here we go... I'm going to be climbing in the Ruth during the second week of May. I'm in search of other partners for climbs in the Ruth or Kahiltna areas following that week. My partner and I will be going after Peak 11,300 during the aforementioned week. After that I'm planning to stay for as much of the season as possible and I'm interested in a wide variety of objectives. Routes like Ham & Eggs, Japanese Couloir, Mt. Crosson, West Ridge Hunter and others are on my immediate list. With the right partner I'd consider a Denali push. I am interested in rock routes later in the season as well. This will be my third trip in AK and my fourth using air support, so although I'm not a pro at this I do have some experience and a good idea of the planning and commitment involved with these kinds of trips. As a climber I am pretty fit and motivated. I'd like to find another partner (or more) with similar goals and experience. I have a lot of time between now and May to get out in the mountains and try out a partnership, so if you're interested let me know. Email is a better way to reach me. Thanks.