billcoe Posted February 26, 2010 Posted February 26, 2010 i've been to mccall and new meadows and out that direction, but never climbed there.. You're missing out! your precious beacon pales in comparison. We miss out on a lot I'm sure Jeff. However, I am betting that when we most suffer (Feb- April or so) Slick Rock or Slick Sock as you say, is pretty much snowed in. We yokels need something long, close and sweet from Feb- July, for close in multi-pitch. Beacon is it ...or perhaps Smith, where we all make annual pilgrimages too of course:-) ps, nothing quite perks us up this time of year better than warm looking Granite pics, got any? Quote
billcoe Posted February 26, 2010 Posted February 26, 2010 Otherwise we have total shite to crawl on. Quote
denalidave Posted February 27, 2010 Posted February 27, 2010 why don't you guys go climb somewhere else and give up on the place?!? 'cuz we're afraid dipshits like you might be there? no one says its the end-all-be-all of the world, hoss - it IS a very cool place, and it IS very close to home/work/family - nothing better within a 2 hr drive come visit some summer - maybe you'll understand? who cares really... I strongly support ALL crags within 5 minutes of home. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted March 1, 2010 Posted March 1, 2010 Is this what you were dreaming about Bill? Quote
billcoe Posted March 1, 2010 Posted March 1, 2010 Ohhh Yes yes YES! (SQUINTING TO SEE BETTER) is that Geoff up on the Granite there? Quote
JosephH Posted March 3, 2010 Author Posted March 3, 2010 I've done some monitoring. As far as it being a positive thing for climbers, probably not. Josephs been doing this pretty heavily and consistently for 6 years and it hasn't really made a difference. Everyone is entitled to their own opinions. But I would [naturally] disagree otherwise I wouldn't be pissing away a boatload of nice spring days doing it when I could be out climbing like you guys. Four of the five past years we've had early opens. I'm not directly responsible for that as all decisions about the closure are ultimately made by Dave and the WDFW. However, I'm pretty sure my monitoring has kept Dave more engaged at Beacon than he would likely otherwise be. In the latter three of those four years my monitoring data played substantially into pinning down the fledging / opening date and just my invovlement (and Bill's) kept Dave more engaged in the first of those years than I believe he would have been otherwise. And I say monitoring has been, and is, important because Dave has been slammed over these past years with the non-stop demands of new, large-scale wind power projects further out in the Gorge. For all practical purposes, the demands of those projects has made Beacon less of a priority for WDFW. And even when Dave can think about Beacon he doesn't have near the time to monitor it on anything approaching a 'regular' basis to really understand what's happening in any given year if they don't end up using their traditional Big Ledge scrape. So I guess from my perspective it boils down to what you mean by "making a difference". If you mean my monitoring hasn't permanently lifted the closure, then clearly yes, but that doesn't have anything to do with my monitoring or even Dave's, but rather the current biological and legal status of the Pergrines. Every day I get out at Beacon counts and so for me the early opens are worth the effort and constitute "making a difference" given we got about 10-11 extra weeks of climbing from those four years of early opens. That is not to say that the monitoring might not be helpful at some future point, for if the birds ever relocate, like the pair that was on El Cap for many years that chose to move across the valley for no apparent reason, then it would be nice to have the credibility with WDFW. However, the WDFW would still want to confirm their absence anyway before they would open the rock, so perhaps it makes no difference at all. No one is going to identify a relocated nest without putting in the time monitoring; so if that's to even be a possibility each year someone has to learn the Peregrine's behaviors relative to various locations on the rock and put in the time. And yes, credibility and trust built over time is the name of the game when it comes to being taken seriously enough for Dave to even entertain the notion of a relocation enough to consider verifying one. As Bill claims, and I agree above, WDFW has the regulatory responsibility for the closure, so it is WDFW and Dave who make the final decision calls on all matters regarding the closure. That means they have to visually verify any and all claims related to the Peregrines. But, if they don't get the ongoing monitoring data to back up calls claiming this and that, and don't have a relationship with the person making them, then nothing is likely going to happen relative to them. But all this basically misses the point. That point being that if all you folks think you can just pop-up in indignant angst on any given February 2nd and reiterate the outrageous injustice of it all expecting to be taken seriously or anything to happen then you're seriously kidding yourself. Without established relationships (at minimum BRSP, WDFW, and WSP Olympia) based on at least a modicum of mutual respect and trust nothing will ever change - ever. If you don't, can't, or won't establish those relationships, or if just the idea of it upsets your delicate sensibilities, then go climb elsewhere and forget about it. And hell, it's not like there aren't alternatives crags these days. Quote
ivan Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 And hell, it's not like there aren't alternatives crags these days. there's nothing wrong w/ just climbing on the n side this time of year if'n you want yer beacon fix - yer wearing long clothes anyhow so fuck the poison oak! Quote
justinp Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 Current recommendations NOT law pertaining to the management of peregrine falcons can be found below. abbreviated Falco peregrinus I am working on getting a copy of the pergrine management plan for region 5 (columbia george area) and a copy of the Beacon Rock climbing management plan and will post them up when I receive them (sorry Joe I could not wait a month or so for u to post them up ) On a side note I don't think I am allergic to poison oak so the north side will work for now Quote
ivan Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 interesting bits from the second link: "The birds are sensitive to disturbance during all phases of the nesting season (1 March through 30 June)" - so why close all of february and linger halfway into july when that's the recommendation? for kevbone and his trail complaint: "Where falcon nests are already established in proximity to humans there is no need to eliminate trails, picnic grounds, or other facilities except where the birds are evidently disturbed by the human activities." this sure as hell isn't being followed: "Aircraft should not approach closer than 500 m (1,640 ft) above a nest" Quote
LostCamKenny Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 this sure as hell isn't being followed: "Aircraft should not approach closer than 500 m (1,640 ft) above a nest" da plane, boss... da plane...! Quote
justinp Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 interesting bits from the second link: "The birds are sensitive to disturbance during all phases of the nesting season (1 March through 30 June)" - so why close all of february and linger halfway into july when that's the recommendation? That was my thought…. according to the recommendations they owe climbers at least a month. Anyways climbers can get back pay for the month we have be missing Quote
ivan Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 for kevbone and his trail complaint: "Where falcon nests are already established in proximity to humans there is no need to eliminate trails, picnic grounds, or other facilities except where the birds are evidently disturbed by the human activities." it didn't sound like the birds were scared of doing their thing either when folks where in the n-hood back in the day during their fornicating-season Quote
justinp Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 (edited) February 22, 2010 Southwest Washington Wildlife Reports “Dog Mountain DOT Project Review: Biologist Anderson met with Biologist Jones from WDOT to discuss highway safety construction at Dog Mt. in the Columbia River Gorge. At issue is oak habitat removal and rock blasting in order to prevent rock fall along highway 14 in Skamania County. Rock blasting will take place adjacent to a peregrine falcon breeding site and an evaluation was conducted to determine potential disturbance impacts to this breeding pair. After the site visit, WDOT agreed to minimize removal of oak habitat and both agencies agreed that blasting would have minimal impacts to peregrine falcons using the area.” blasting = minimal impact climbing = major impact Edited March 3, 2010 by justinp Quote
kevbone Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 "Where falcon nests are already established in proximity to humans there is no need to eliminate trails, picnic grounds, or other facilities except where the birds are evidently disturbed by the human activities." This is really open to personal interpretation here isn’t it? “Except where the birds are evidently disturbed by the human activities." How does one PROVE that climbers “disturb” the birds? Or that hikers don’t? This is a perfect example of a system that is not perfect. Quote
ivan Posted March 3, 2010 Posted March 3, 2010 How does one PROVE that climbers disturb the birds? Or that hikers dont? This is a perfect example of a system that is not perfect. doesn't soudn like rocket-science to me - simple observation? - they're big enough and bold enough birds to make it clear when they're unhappy - there are stories of climbers elsewhere being buzzed by them when they get too close - other signs (if you read the document justin linked to) included abandoning the egg/chick - don't think anyone's looking for a perfect system either, just one that takes care of both the birds and the people w/o too much unhappiness for either Quote
LostCamKenny Posted March 4, 2010 Posted March 4, 2010 February 22, 2010 Southwest Washington Wildlife Reports “Dog Mountain DOT Project Review: Biologist Anderson met with Biologist Jones from WDOT to discuss highway safety construction at Dog Mt. in the Columbia River Gorge. At issue is oak habitat removal and rock blasting in order to prevent rock fall along highway 14 in Skamania County. Rock blasting will take place adjacent to a peregrine falcon breeding site and an evaluation was conducted to determine potential disturbance impacts to this breeding pair. After the site visit, WDOT agreed to minimize removal of oak habitat and both agencies agreed that blasting would have minimal impacts to peregrine falcons using the area.” blasting = minimal impact climbing = major impact i'm surprised that it has been just over an hour since justin put up the link to the wdot project concerning the peregrines and josephh hasn't posted ANYTHING in retort yet!!! Quote
Plaidman Posted March 4, 2010 Posted March 4, 2010 February 22, 2010 Southwest Washington Wildlife Reports “Dog Mountain DOT Project Review: Biologist Anderson met with Biologist Jones from WDOT to discuss highway safety construction at Dog Mt. in the Columbia River Gorge. At issue is oak habitat removal and rock blasting in order to prevent rock fall along highway 14 in Skamania County. Rock blasting will take place adjacent to a peregrine falcon breeding site and an evaluation was conducted to determine potential disturbance impacts to this breeding pair. After the site visit, WDOT agreed to minimize removal of oak habitat and both agencies agreed that blasting would have minimal impacts to peregrine falcons using the area.” blasting = minimal impact climbing = major impact WOW. We are a force to deal with are we not. We are just too loud and having way too much fun. "climbing = major impact" Quote
denalidave Posted March 4, 2010 Posted March 4, 2010 this sure as hell isn't being followed: "Aircraft should not approach closer than 500 m (1,640 ft) above a nest" da plane, boss... da plane...! How ya gonna monitor without da plane? Quote
denalidave Posted March 4, 2010 Posted March 4, 2010 February 22, 2010 Southwest Washington Wildlife Reports “Dog Mountain DOT Project Review: Biologist Anderson met with Biologist Jones from WDOT to discuss highway safety construction at Dog Mt. in the Columbia River Gorge. At issue is oak habitat removal and rock blasting in order to prevent rock fall along highway 14 in Skamania County. Rock blasting will take place adjacent to a peregrine falcon breeding site and an evaluation was conducted to determine potential disturbance impacts to this breeding pair. After the site visit, WDOT agreed to minimize removal of oak habitat and both agencies agreed that blasting would have minimal impacts to peregrine falcons using the area.” blasting = minimal impact climbing = major impact This may be the smoking gun that it is all politics? WDOT has enough influence, climbers dont... Quote
ivan Posted March 4, 2010 Posted March 4, 2010 This may be the smoking gun that it is all politics? WDOT has enough influence, climbers dont... since when did you need a smoking gun to know the litte man always gets fawked by the Big Man? that document on state recs is hardly all on our side - i read it such that it might justify the climbing trail closure and perhaps any of the routes above big ledge Quote
LostCamKenny Posted March 4, 2010 Posted March 4, 2010 waiting for a new journal entry.... no shit... its been a little under 18 hrs since justin presented the "smoking gun." never woulda figured that it would take that long to get another entry... Quote
billcoe Posted March 5, 2010 Posted March 5, 2010 waiting for a new journal entry.... no shit... its been a little under 18 hrs since justin presented the "smoking gun." never woulda figured that it would take that long to get another entry... Come on, it could be that JH finally realized that his wife, home and work is more important than Beacon, monitoring, or giving any kind of a crap about this any more dudes. Long after we're all dead and gone, the rock will still be there. Of course, hopefully I go last....:-) Quote
JosephH Posted March 5, 2010 Author Posted March 5, 2010 waiting for a new journal entry.... Was in LA checking on my Dad for the weekend, but this time of year every two weeks or so is fine. If Dave or Kenny can get out during those alternate weeks and get some entries that would be great as well. Quote
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