Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
beefcider

making your own quickdraws?

Recommended Posts

quote:

Originally posted by specialed:
I do also think tied slings are fairly obsolete. Of course its good to carry webbbing and cord of assorted length with you on multi-pitch climbs. But if thats all you use - you're way old school!

Hmm I used tied slings when I v -thread ice climbing.. Also when setting up rap stations at crags or in the mountains. Also to use as long runners. Way cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

And if you think that's an issue then get back on the short bus.

Back on it? I never got off it! grin.gif" border="0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As for the slings, a mix of sewn spectra (or any those other miracle strong and slippery fabric) and the good old 11/16 tubular webbing cut to the desirable length is a must. Almost for all my climbing, I carry 25 feet of 11/16 tubular webbing wink.gif" border="0grin.gif" border="0

[ 04-12-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where to start?

-----------------------You can buy short sewn draws w/out carabiners. $2.95 and often on sale for less. -----------------------Look for Rock Empire brand from the Czech Repuplic. MEC and Nelson carry them.

-------------HOTKNIFE!!-------------If you can't cut it w/ a hotknife (soldering iron attachment) - then you've got Kevlar wich breaks down after repeated bending. Spectra is a much better choise. The firemen use a kevlar escape line but retire it after use or after 5 yrs, wicherver comes first.

Leave No Trace - when possible, not just when convinient.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by specialed:
Pope, I was half-joking about the hippy shit. My old mans got this book called "Yosemite Climber" with a bunch of Bridwell-era dudes with long hair and bellbottoms styling burly shit in the valley.

That's the only coffee-table book worth owning! I purchased a copy from Jim Phillips who, if you didn't know, sells books out of his house and can find just about anything you can think of.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...but whatever you do, make sure if you are using Spectra webbing that you do not attempt to make knotted runners out of them. This webbing is too slippery to hold a knot, and must be sewn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by allison:
...but whatever you do, make sure if you are using Spectra webbing that you do not attempt to make knotted runners out of them. This webbing is too slippery to hold a knot, and must be sewn.

I have used spectra for years. Just make the ends longer and tie your knots well (not loose).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by pope:

That's the only coffee-table book worth owning! I purchased a copy from Jim Phillips who, if you didn't know, sells books out of his house and can find just about anything you can think of.

That's my favorite book! Its classic. Hard to find huh? I'm waiting to inherit my copy. grin.gif" border="0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nobody sells spooled spectra WEBBING do they, just Spectra CORD and pre-sewn spectra webbing.

i use supertape for most of my tied slings cause it is cheap, strong and light. but for rap slings I use the skankiest old webbing I can get... anything that doesnt have melts or holesin it already... you know like if someone leaves a new sling and rap ring at a station and i come along i usually grab the new sling and leave an old one behind... or just rap off of 6 manky slings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:
.

. but for rap slings I use the skankiest old webbing I can get...

does she know you feel this way????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by specialed:
I do also think tied slings are fairly obsolete. Of course its good to carry webbbing and cord of assorted length with you on multi-pitch climbs. But if thats all you use - you're way old school!

I've never been called old school before.

I... I feel so... HONORED!!

Oh wait, I actually DO own three sewn runners, and even with my big pile o' webbing, I guess I'm not quite there yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:
nobody sells spooled spectra WEBBING do they, just Spectra CORD and pre-sewn spectra webbing.

The stupid gear store in Canmore (not Valhalla...forget the name) used to sell it for the same price as regular webbing. Same thing the guy at Vertical Reality was selling Gemini for the same price as nylon 5mm.

quote:

you know like if someone leaves a new sling and rap ring at a station and i come along i usually grab the new sling and leave an old one behind... or just rap off of 6 manky slings.

... or score all the fixed gear and just downclimb.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by mtngrrrl:

I've never been called old school before.

I... I feel so... HONORED!!

Oh wait, I actually DO own three sewn runners, and even with my big pile o' webbing, I guess I'm not quite there yet.

Either old school or just too new to know any better wink.gif" border="0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I never suspected that a tied sling for making QDs was bad, I just heard that it was. I don't even remember who I heard it from which is why I posted the question. I ended up using a few short sewn spectra slings and duct taping them. worked great. next time I'll tie my own and try the produce rubber band idea then the seatbelt material and finally, my personal favorite: straight duct tape.

the thing is, for the duct tape only QDs, do you make 'flat' slings out of it or twist the hell out of it and make it into little ropes and then tape the ends to make a very sticky but ultra reliabe QD? I think that with enough work, you could probably make duxt tape biners for the all-around duct tape draw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by allison:
...but whatever you do, make sure if you are using Spectra webbing that you do not attempt to make knotted runners out of them. This webbing is too slippery to hold a knot, and must be sewn.

I've heard (and I do it) that it's ok to ty spectra w/ fisherman's knots.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sewn loops are for those who lack the intelligence and dexterity to tie knots - AMGA archives contain a European study done in the early eighties that found that, on average, approximately one-third of the impact force of any fall is absorbed by the tightening of knots in the belay system. I submit that falling on sewn slings adds needless shock-load to your belay. of course, this is only a significant issue if you actually fall now and then...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hairball:

 

That is assuming that a sewn runner has less dynamic action than a water knot (or any other knot).

 

Not saying you are wrong...but do you have any data to back up your position? Also, even if a knot does have more dynamic action (in theory) does that make a tied off runner stronger than a properly sewn runner?

 

I seriously doubt it does. But am open to bete, real beta.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya, you can get by with some tied slings with rubber bands or what not but that is pretty ghetto. For walking around looking cool at the top climbing areas you want to and get a shiny new set quick draws. While your at it make sure to get some ultralight anodized biners in a stunning color that matches. If at all possible these should all match the color of your new rope, chalk bag, and shoes. They really will make you climb better! [Wink]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by monkeyboy:

Ya, you can get by with some tied slings with rubber bands or what not but that is pretty ghetto. For walking around looking cool at the top climbing areas you want to and get a shiny new set quick draws. While your at it make sure to get some ultralight anodized biners in a stunning color that matches. If at all possible these should all match the color of your new rope, chalk bag, and shoes. They really will make you climb better!
[Wink]

For the coolest look have your Metolius Redpoint Laser stuck into your chalkbag in the toothbrush pocket, and the Prana froufy $200 gold-plated cheater stick with ergonomic handle for tweaking your girlfriends navel ring while she is cruxi [Roll Eyes] ng at the 3rd clip of Toxic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by monkeyboy:

Ya, you can get by with some tied slings with rubber bands or what not but that is pretty ghetto. For walking around looking cool at the top climbing areas you want to and get a shiny new set quick draws. While your at it make sure to get some ultralight anodized biners in a stunning color that matches. If at all possible these should all match the color of your new rope, chalk bag, and shoes. They really will make you climb better!
[Wink]

Yeah Man,

It dose, Now I CAN FLASH 5.13 also if you keep your shit clean and spotless you can save weight that way which will make you climb at least 2 grads harder also with the weight that you can save of the extra material that take to make knotted slings you can go to "all u can eat" joint and stuff your face

[big Grin][chubit][big Drink][laf]

 

[ 04-16-2002, 11:04 AM: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I remembered someone saying how they disliked having the bent gate biner (to which the rope is clipped) trapped by the draw so that it doesn't flop around (aka dogbones). The advantage of having it trapped is supposedly that it makes it easier to clip the rope. The disadvantage is the biner has less freedom to rotate, which means more drag and if you use it on gear, makes it more likely that the piece gets jiggled out. For sport climbing, would there be any safety advantage to being able to rotate the biner gate up after you clip in the rope?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
catbirdseat said:

I remembered someone saying how they disliked having the bent gate biner (to which the rope is clipped) trapped by the draw so that it doesn't flop around (aka dogbones). The advantage of having it trapped is supposedly that it makes it easier to clip the rope. The disadvantage is the biner has less freedom to rotate, which means more drag and if you use it on gear, makes it more likely that the piece gets jiggled out. For sport climbing, would there be any safety advantage to being able to rotate the biner gate up after you clip in the rope?

 

 

man whoever said that cbs was just a script that downloads regurgitated tech tip factoids and freedom of the hills chunks is correct. but whatever server the script is running on musta upgraded recently cause the script seems to be running on a faster speed now yellaf.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Honest to God. I never even looked at the date.

 

If I sound like a script, it is because I have an almost photographic memory for information that I have seen in print. Ask me when the last time I ran into Allison at Pub Club and I couldn't tell you.

 

I just want my question answered. Is there a safety advantage/ or disadvantage to free rotation of the biner to which the rope is clipped?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×