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dberdinka

Fifty (or more) Favorite Climbs in the PNW

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the Passenger SEWS

 

I am not the most well traveled alpine climber but this thing was awesome.

2671408633_5de1f7ed97.jpg

2672232964_d2b2489ed4.jpg

Lots of this:

2671411311_79dc4165e0.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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White Chuck Mountain- East Face Couloir - IV WI3 5.8R Mixed, 1600'

 

"Total Fucking Classic". 1600' of spectacular alpine climbing that keeps on giving. Deserving of repeats: go get it when conditions are right and you're willing and able to put in the effort.

 

 

The Route:

140WC_eastface.jpg

 

Start of Pitch Three:

140wc_eface_jt2.jpg

 

Belay under Pitch Six:

140wc_eface_p6.jpg

 

Traversing off the "Sun Deck" into the final gully to the summit:

140wc_eface_jt4.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Choada_Boy

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You've exceeded the picture limit Justin!.....but to anyone interested NOW might be the time to go get some. The amount of ice you'll find could be questionable but you'll definitely be able to get there.

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Dragons of Eden, Dragontail Pk. - IV+ 5.12-

 

An exposed and challenging free-climb up one of the most iconic peaks in the Stuart Range. Long, technical, and steep.

 

99823138_a6plRmBP_P7060937.jpg

 

 

doe_headwall_ov.jpg

 

 

P4: The crux, 5.12- (photo by Max Hasson):

crux_1.jpg

 

 

P7: Double roofs, 5.11- (photo by Max Hasson):

headwall_pitch2_1.jpg

 

 

P8: The Great White Headwall 5.11+ (photo by Max Hasson):

headwall_pitch3_3.jpg

 

Trip Report

 

 

Really, really hard to choose my favorite. The 3 runner-ups:

 

East Face, Main Gunsight III 5.10+

Megaladon Ridge, Mt. Goode IV+ 5.10+

Heavens Gate/Golden Road - UTW, Index

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North Ridge of Blum, Grade III 5.9. You're all alone out there on some of the cleanest alpine granite in WA.

 

Blum_53.JPG

 

Blum_84.JPG

 

 

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August 1971 Route (Gerber-Sink) Dragontail Peak WI3 5.7

 

Amazing route on one of the best alpine faces in the state! From hard rock routes like Dragons of Eden to moderate snow and ice routes like Triple Couloirs, this peak has something for everyone. The Gerber-Sink isn't technically harder than Triple Couloirs, but it has five times the technical terrain. Iced-up corners, scratchy mixed sections, and long stretches of neve combine to make this thing a hoot!

 

IMG_pic.jpg

 

dtail2.jpg

 

dtail3.jpg

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I'd like to add that the Gerber-Sink is a great summer route too, finishing either with the top of the Hidden Couloir route which traverses the ledge at the base of the Fin to a direct finish (easier) or up the Fin as per the top of Backbone. The crux of the lower part is the chimney in the last photo Scott posted, likely to be running with water in the early season.

 

Better than Serpentine by far.

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anyone know when the triple couliors and gerber-sink will come into shape? jan-feb? I'd like to get one of those done this year.

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Don't forget about the NW face of Dragontail (between Backbone and Serpentine).

 

a few pics (not current conditions):

 

drag2.jpg

drag3.jpg

drag1.jpg

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The pics are about that old. I still use stuff I bought over 30 years ago. It works great for the most part.

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I see that we must have shared a tent at some point, but we entered spray a few posts ago.

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Arf! Sorry to be dense. I have been on DTail in conditions like that and didn't feel like mixed climbing for many moons after. :grlaf:

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I don't know if this is in one of the classic books, but of late this is one of my favorite: NW Couloir of Eldorado in the Spring

 

Approach

6455_546315881823_39203244_32456970_937868_n.jpg

 

Climb

4395_1143709987631_1073911563_440660_3475437_n.jpg

Not to mention, you top out at the base of the classic knifeedge eeast ridge

4395_1143710227637_1073911563_440666_5385320_n.jpg

 

Edited by kevino

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