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Everything posted by chimbo

  1. Heading out on trip today and would like to climb something in Stuart Range mid-week when I return. Interested in CNR on Stuart, various on Dragontail and Prusik. I can also be persuaded into a trip to WA Pass or other destinations. I have a lot of free time right now. Lead hard 5.9 and easy 10s. Have gear. Call or text me at 360 643 9028.
  2. Hyalite/Cody Ice

    With the poor forecast in the NW I'm looking to head to Hyalite and/or Cody if anyone is interested. I can meet in either Portland or varying spots in WA this Friday the 18th to take off and am free until the 24th (travel day to head home). I am flexible with dates if others are not. I lead WI3 but am looking to push into 4. Have 6 screws, one 50m half rope (will buy another if it's an issue). PM or email me at tlappetito@gmail.com to go over specifics. Tyler
  3. I'm wondering what the road looks like now and if you can drive up to the TH. I have a AWD Suburu.
  4. The weather looks good and I'd love to make a day trip to climb one of these on Thursday. I have gear and experience and will lead cruxes. I'm looking for someone with some experience. I'm staying in Fall City over the holidays (off of 90). Email me at tlappetito@gmail.com or give me a call at 360 643 9028 Tyler
  5. That looks like one hell of a trip. Thanks for the great pics.
  6. Mt. Hood N. Face

    Looking to climb the N. Face of Hood next weekend (Dec. 19th and 20th) on my way up to WA. I'll be arriving in Portland Friday night and am up to leave for the TH on Friday night or Sat. morning. I have one 50m half rope, 6 screws, 1 picket, good 2 person tent, good stove. I'd be happy to take the crux pitches but I am looking for someone that has experience. Contact me at tlappetito@gmail.com to go over more details. Tyler
  7. Mt. Hood N. Face

    Weather is obviously not cooperating, and although this post wasn't exactly blowing up, felt it would be good to acknowledge that I'll have to wait to give this one a try.
  8. Fifty (or more) Favorite Climbs in the PNW

    PM me if interested in triple couloirs.
  9. Mt. Hood N. Face

    Good luck with the recovery. Let me know if you have any friends looking to get out this weekend. This climb on Illumination Rock also looks good: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=925492
  10. Nice work. Great to see routes coming into shape.
  11. [TR] Leavenworth - FA: The Goatee 12/5/2009

    Nice work..... hope there's more of that ahead.
  12. Nice work.... pictures would be sweet.
  13. Any south facing stuff in? I haven't been to Hyalite and am interested but wonder how crowded it gets. Glad you guys got some early season ice in.
  14. Leash Question

    I'm either going to buy the BD spinner leash or make my own. I haven't climbed with this setup yet and am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for the BD model or found it more useful to make their own.
  15. Nice pictures man. Looks like a solid weekend.
  16. [TR] Hood - NF Right 11/4/2009

    That looks like fun... nice work.
  17. Looking to head up Friday night and come back to the Bay Area after a full day on Sunday. PM me or email me at tlappetito@gmail.com I have .3 through 3 for cams, a set of stoppers, 7 draws, and a rope. Looking to do some stuff at the Manure Pile, Church Bowl, and El Cap Base. Tyler
  18. Cotopaxi in November?

    I have a few suggestions concerning transportation. Save yourself some money and support rural locals who need the cash more than the guide services that organize transportation in Quito. If heading to Los Illinizas take any bus South on the Panamericana and get off in Machachi. You can hire a truck in the major plazas of the city. Pick someone who has a good vehicle as the road up to Los Illinizas was in tough shape when I was there in January. If you pay the driver well and are clear about the pickup time, you can expect him to come back and get you. Some basic Spanish will make this transaction much smoother. To reach Cotopaxi you can also take a bus South on the Panamericana and tell the driver to let you off at the national park. There will be lots of trucks there to take you up to the Refugio. The park entrance closes in the later afternoon so keep that in mind. A much prettier hike than the Pichinchas for acclimatization is Pasachoa. PM me you want to find out more and some directions. I lived in Ecuador for an 8 and then 6 month stretches and found it a very difficult place to find partners. Climbers there are definitely in the middle and upper class and many of them seemed more interested in showing off their gear than climbing mountains. There is a small group of very accomplished alpinists but most of them guide internationally. In terms of foreign climbers, you might have some luck finding people in Quito but most seem to be tourists content on hiring a guide. I never used a guide but would chat with them often in Quito. I'm not sure if this is still his email but one nice guide was Wilson and this is the email I had: lucanwill@yahoo.com If you want to try to make some contacts with locals before you head down you can try these guys: club.andinismo.uce@gmail.com I don't remember which university this is but it's one located in Quito. La Universidad Catolica also has a climbing club. They have members and organize trips and you might find a local partner with them. Hope this helps.
  19. I know it's a long shot to find someone on here for CA but I'm not having luck with Super Topo or Summit Post. If Tioga Pass is still open I'd really like to climb the SE Face of Clyde Minaret (5.8). I'm also interested in Matthes Crest (5.7). Open to other ideas. I have a car and gear. Looking for someone with some experience. Email me at tlappetito@gmail.com Thanks
  20. [TR] Cody - Carter Mtn 10/10/2009

    Looks like a blast. I'll have to get over there this winter. Thanks for the stoke, John.
  21. I definitely miss the Olympics. Thanks for the great pictures.