ryanb Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 the Passenger SEWS I am not the most well traveled alpine climber but this thing was awesome. Lots of this: Quote
Choada_Boy Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) White Chuck Mountain- East Face Couloir - IV WI3 5.8R Mixed, 1600' "Total Fucking Classic". 1600' of spectacular alpine climbing that keeps on giving. Deserving of repeats: go get it when conditions are right and you're willing and able to put in the effort. The Route: Start of Pitch Three: Belay under Pitch Six: Traversing off the "Sun Deck" into the final gully to the summit: Edited December 7, 2009 by Choada_Boy Quote
dberdinka Posted December 7, 2009 Author Posted December 7, 2009 You've exceeded the picture limit Justin!.....but to anyone interested NOW might be the time to go get some. The amount of ice you'll find could be questionable but you'll definitely be able to get there. Quote
Sol Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 Dragons of Eden, Dragontail Pk. - IV+ 5.12- An exposed and challenging free-climb up one of the most iconic peaks in the Stuart Range. Long, technical, and steep. P4: The crux, 5.12- (photo by Max Hasson): P7: Double roofs, 5.11- (photo by Max Hasson): P8: The Great White Headwall 5.11+ (photo by Max Hasson): Trip Report Really, really hard to choose my favorite. The 3 runner-ups: East Face, Main Gunsight III 5.10+ Megaladon Ridge, Mt. Goode IV+ 5.10+ Heavens Gate/Golden Road - UTW, Index Quote
AlpineBEAU.509 Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 this looks like a great climb. is the forrest road drivable right now....might be a good one for this weekend. Quote
dberdinka Posted December 8, 2009 Author Posted December 8, 2009 As driveable as it gets. Sounds like you can drive within a 1.5-2 hr walk of the peak. Quote
Z-Man Posted December 8, 2009 Posted December 8, 2009 North Ridge of Blum, Grade III 5.9. You're all alone out there on some of the cleanest alpine granite in WA. Quote
G-spotter Posted December 9, 2009 Posted December 9, 2009 ^^ I know this thread is spray-free but that first pic is a tough sell on "cleanest"? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted December 9, 2009 Posted December 9, 2009 Stawamus Chief - Cruel Shoes/Grand Wall/Upper Black Dyke Quote
genepires Posted December 9, 2009 Posted December 9, 2009 cleanest Alpine rock in wash, dru. Alpine is allowed to have grass. There isn't much lichen on it! Quote
scottgg Posted December 11, 2009 Posted December 11, 2009 August 1971 Route (Gerber-Sink) Dragontail Peak WI3 5.7 Amazing route on one of the best alpine faces in the state! From hard rock routes like Dragons of Eden to moderate snow and ice routes like Triple Couloirs, this peak has something for everyone. The Gerber-Sink isn't technically harder than Triple Couloirs, but it has five times the technical terrain. Iced-up corners, scratchy mixed sections, and long stretches of neve combine to make this thing a hoot! Quote
Off_White Posted December 11, 2009 Posted December 11, 2009 I'd like to add that the Gerber-Sink is a great summer route too, finishing either with the top of the Hidden Couloir route which traverses the ledge at the base of the Fin to a direct finish (easier) or up the Fin as per the top of Backbone. The crux of the lower part is the chimney in the last photo Scott posted, likely to be running with water in the early season. Better than Serpentine by far. Quote
keenwesh Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 anyone know when the triple couliors and gerber-sink will come into shape? jan-feb? I'd like to get one of those done this year. Quote
dberdinka Posted December 14, 2009 Author Posted December 14, 2009 It's in right now! BTW: Where are all the sick alpine TRs from the best conditions in a long while?? Quote
chimbo Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 PM me if interested in triple couloirs. Quote
j_b Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 Don't forget about the NW face of Dragontail (between Backbone and Serpentine). a few pics (not current conditions): Quote
genepires Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 I'll say it is not current conditions. That pack and boots haven't been made for 20 years. How old is the photos? Quote
j_b Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 The pics are about that old. I still use stuff I bought over 30 years ago. It works great for the most part. Quote
Pete_H Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 You still roll in that fart bag? Nice! Quote
j_b Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 I see that we must have shared a tent at some point, but we entered spray a few posts ago. Quote
j_b Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 It's in right now! Sorry to be contrary but it doesn't sound like it was in to me ... Quote
dberdinka Posted December 14, 2009 Author Posted December 14, 2009 That was supposed to be a bit of a joke. I hope that guys toes heal up, that looks like a really lame deal. Quote
j_b Posted December 14, 2009 Posted December 14, 2009 Arf! Sorry to be dense. I have been on DTail in conditions like that and didn't feel like mixed climbing for many moons after. Quote
kevino Posted January 31, 2010 Posted January 31, 2010 (edited) I don't know if this is in one of the classic books, but of late this is one of my favorite: NW Couloir of Eldorado in the Spring Approach Climb Not to mention, you top out at the base of the classic knifeedge eeast ridge Edited January 31, 2010 by kevino Quote
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