John Frieh Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 I propose we discuss Bears in Heat second pitch moves off the anchor instead of YW. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 I propose we discuss Bears in Heat second pitch moves off the anchor instead of YW. Thanks Just get up there and hump that bear! What more to discuss? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 I propose we discuss Bears in Heat second pitch moves off the anchor instead of YW. Thanks How about the last moves on that pitch to the next anchor? But then that's going to be a short conversation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Bears is worth discussing John, alittle stout and awkward but what a splitter! Doesn't get climbed much I think because of the approach pitch. How about the Flying Dutchman is another one that should see more traffic, at least the lower pitch, classic. Next door, Physic Wound has a wild rose bush in it at the hand crack section, and whoever goes up there next should bring a pair of pruners because it will shred your arm. Also, there was a bat in the crack that my partner grabbed by acccident, kind of scary. All these routes are victims of the peregrine closure and are heavily vegetated every opening now, and need a good scrubbing of the lichen on the holds, although 1st pitch of the Dutchman is clean as a whistle at the moment and ready for action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam 7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy 7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read 7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev 7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14 7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails - did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses! dave's vid: [video:youtube] 7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home! 7th day at beacon this season 7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette... 8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour 9/5 - quick solo creep - tinywing (half little wing/half corner p1) to the corner to stoner ledge to young warriors - kenny n' ole'larry (thought he quit climbing?!) n' buddy dan at stoner ledge - 10th day at beacon this season. 9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?) while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive - horrified to find my good name impugned by certain unnamed low-lifes up on the little people ledge - seems they think i've been drinking their cached beer - despite my innocence, i nonetheless searched desperately to find said stranded beer so i could "protect" it better, but no dice steve, yet again, climbing w/ random cuties, this one crushing on warriors and jills - gotta love an understanding wife! 9/7 - beacon hat-trick, 3 days in a row - 1 solo lap on the regular old corner, then one link-up i hadn't done before: tinywing => corner => hidden treats => corner => young-warriors => downclimb corner => uprising - 5 laps in 3 days 9/13 - lonely lap today, not a soul on the rock or on the trail, just a big, big wind, a shallow river, and a bone-dry bird-sanctuary across the way - thought i saw ole'boy dave's car in the lot so i packed not 1 but 2 tall-boys of pbr in the hopes of balancing out the debt, but nary a sight of him along the way - so sad, i had to swig'em both down as i was afeared to leave one on the ledge as a sign there warned of wanton russian-fuck-types showing up to swill'em away... 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denalidave Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam 7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy 7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read 7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev 7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14 7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails - did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses! dave's vid: [video:youtube] 7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home! 7th day at beacon this season 7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette... 8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour 9/5 - quick solo creep - tinywing (half little wing/half corner p1) to the corner to stoner ledge to young warriors - kenny n' ole'larry (thought he quit climbing?!) n' buddy dan at stoner ledge - 10th day at beacon this season. 9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?) while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive - horrified to find my good name impugned by certain unnamed low-lifes up on the little people ledge - seems they think i've been drinking their cached beer - despite my innocence, i nonetheless searched desperately to find said stranded beer so i could "protect" it better, but no dice steve, yet again, climbing w/ random cuties, this one crushing on warriors and jills - gotta love an understanding wife! 9/7 - beacon hat-trick, 3 days in a row - 1 solo lap on the regular old corner, then one link-up i hadn't done before: tinywing => corner => hidden treats => corner => young-warriors => downclimb corner => uprising - 5 laps in 3 days 9/13 - lonely lap today, not a soul on the rock or on the trail, just a big, big wind, a shallow river, and a bone-dry bird-sanctuary across the way - thought i saw ole'boy dave's car in the lot so i packed not 1 but 2 tall-boys of pbr in the hopes of balancing out the debt, but nary a sight of him along the way - so sad, i had to swig'em both down as i was afeared to leave one on the ledge as a sign there warned of wanton russian-fuck-types showing up to swill'em away... Dude, I saw yer car in the lot and was concerned you may have met the cinder block size piece of bacon that decided to go south when I looked at it wrong. Yer car was gone later so I figured you only got hit by the smaller bits of the disintegrating missile. I'd even brought an extra bevy in a Kerr jar to toast your survival and/or demise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Dude, I saw yer car in the lot and was concerned you may have met the cinder block size piece of bacon that decided to go south when I looked at it wrong. Yer car was gone later so I figured you only got hit by the smaller bits of the disintegrating missile. I'd even brought an extra bevy in a Kerr jar to toast your survival and/or demise. saw some fresh fragments at the base so reckon there's that mystery solved where'd they come down from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 we be swilling later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Dude, I saw yer car in the lot and was concerned you may have met the cinder block size piece of bacon that decided to go south when I looked at it wrong. Yer car was gone later so I figured you only got hit by the smaller bits of the disintegrating missile. I'd even brought an extra bevy in a Kerr jar to toast your survival and/or demise. saw some fresh fragments at the base so reckon there's that mystery solved where'd they come down from? From that cream colored loose crap at the start of the last pitch of the corner/YW (base of the ridge pitch). It has been ready to cut loose for a while. I think the big rockfall last week was from the same spot. More to come, I'm sure. Better break out the industrial glue gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 or the hammer and chisel..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 or the hammer and chisel..... it's so rotten there you'd have to keep hammer'n'chisel'n till there was no beacon left out of the notch, on that final ridge pitch, i always go right instead of through the fresh broken part - my fear is one day the huge block you first have to stand on is goign to take off, taking my dumb ass w/ it as, even when i'm w/ somebody, i rarely stay roped for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Shameless plug... Attention all Beatards, due to fiduciary responsibility, I have to leave La Casa de Bacon until further notice. Hence, I must purge much of my precious cache of gear, furniture, stuff and other glamorous items of interest. Sale starts Friday, Sept 21, right here at Le Casa de Bacon. Lots of camping, climbing, and other misc gear. Kids stuff (girls) , kitchen gadgets, furniture, etc... EVERYTHING MUST GO! NO REASONABLE OFFERS REFUSED!! But wait, that's not all! I also need someone to rent La Casa de Bacon. 4 Bedrooms, 2.5 baths, 2500 square feet with amazing views of Mt Hamilton and surrounding areas. Beatard Heaven, only 5 minutes to Beacon Rock State Park. 12 miles of paved hiking trails out your doorstep, free frisbee golf course, tennis courts, parks and golf course. This place is the BOMB! Location, location, location. 25 minutes to Hood River, 45 minutes to PDX. 5 minutes east of Beacon Rock. Send PM for any specifics and/or details about gear for sale. I hope to update a list once I go through all my crap this weekend. If you want to live in the gorge, here are a few recent shots from my place... Mt Hamilton 2012 La Casa de Bacon sunset View of Beacon a few doors down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 negotiations underway w/ little woman - serious attention played to know chicken mansion on property - hold fast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam 7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy 7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read 7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev 7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14 7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails - did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses! dave's vid: [video:youtube] 7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home! 7th day at beacon this season 7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette... 8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour 9/5 - quick solo creep - tinywing (half little wing/half corner p1) to the corner to stoner ledge to young warriors - kenny n' ole'larry (thought he quit climbing?!) n' buddy dan at stoner ledge - 10th day at beacon this season. 9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?) while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive - horrified to find my good name impugned by certain unnamed low-lifes up on the little people ledge - seems they think i've been drinking their cached beer - despite my innocence, i nonetheless searched desperately to find said stranded beer so i could "protect" it better, but no dice steve, yet again, climbing w/ random cuties, this one crushing on warriors and jills - gotta love an understanding wife! 9/7 - beacon hat-trick, 3 days in a row - 1 solo lap on the regular old corner, then one link-up i hadn't done before: tinywing => corner => hidden treats => corner => young-warriors => downclimb corner => uprising - 5 laps in 3 days 9/13 - lonely lap today, not a soul on the rock or on the trail, just a big, big wind, a shallow river, and a bone-dry bird-sanctuary across the way - thought i saw ole'boy dave's car in the lot so i packed not 1 but 2 tall-boys of pbr in the hopes of balancing out the debt, but nary a sight of him along the way - so sad, i had to swig'em both down as i was afeared to leave one on the ledge as a sign there warned of wanton russian-fuck-types showing up to swill'em away... 9/14 - 14th day at beacon this season - hardly a breathe of a breeze, odd after the howling gale of the day before - a peck of peregrines and a pretty phat pack of elk, dispersed upon the island and more thickly about the crick leading off towards bonneville - wheezy bugles and high-piercing shrieks - the powderhund on rehab on his mangled meniscus - cruise'n to jill's thrill - who/when the fuck cut out the sling and rings on the grassy ledges rap? beers and bullshit'n at the base - a heavy scent of fire in the air, like the memory of yosemite and sun-dappled mania - glorious sunset - the summer is banned and abased, fading fast in the fuck-fury dark of eight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 I have made it to beacon 5 times this year. 4 times more than last year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 I have made it to beacon 0 times this year. 0 times more than last year or any year prior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrov Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 climbed Cruisin' this morning with Dennis H. Fun climb! Placed a red micro stopper in before the crux - couldn't get it out. We didn't bail off it, but it's apparently in there pretty well. Let me know if you can get it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 I have made it to beacon 0 times this year. 0 times more than last year or any year prior. stay away, it's horrible down here! and the poison oak's beyond insane! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 climbed Cruisin' this morning with Dennis H. Fun climb! Placed a red micro stopper in before the crux - couldn't get it out. We didn't bail off it, but it's apparently in there pretty well. Let me know if you can get it out. bootied a stopper yday on cruising that i've no need for, should you wish a replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 I have made it to beacon 0 times this year. 0 times more than last year or any year prior. Well, shame on you. At least you are cruising the Beatard forum, proving you are indeed a Beatard at heart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam 7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy 7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read 7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev 7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14 7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails - did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses! dave's vid: [video:youtube] 7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home! 7th day at beacon this season 7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette... 8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour 9/5 - quick solo creep - tinywing (half little wing/half corner p1) to the corner to stoner ledge to young warriors - kenny n' ole'larry (thought he quit climbing?!) n' buddy dan at stoner ledge - 10th day at beacon this season. 9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?) while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive - horrified to find my good name impugned by certain unnamed low-lifes up on the little people ledge - seems they think i've been drinking their cached beer - despite my innocence, i nonetheless searched desperately to find said stranded beer so i could "protect" it better, but no dice steve, yet again, climbing w/ random cuties, this one crushing on warriors and jills - gotta love an understanding wife! 9/7 - beacon hat-trick, 3 days in a row - 1 solo lap on the regular old corner, then one link-up i hadn't done before: tinywing => corner => hidden treats => corner => young-warriors => downclimb corner => uprising - 5 laps in 3 days 9/13 - lonely lap today, not a soul on the rock or on the trail, just a big, big wind, a shallow river, and a bone-dry bird-sanctuary across the way - thought i saw ole'boy dave's car in the lot so i packed not 1 but 2 tall-boys of pbr in the hopes of balancing out the debt, but nary a sight of him along the way - so sad, i had to swig'em both down as i was afeared to leave one on the ledge as a sign there warned of wanton russian-fuck-types showing up to swill'em away... 9/14 - 14th day at beacon this season - hardly a breathe of a breeze, odd after the howling gale of the day before - a peck of peregrines and a pretty phat pack of elk, dispersed upon the island and more thickly about the crick leading off towards bonneville - wheezy bugles and high-piercing shrieks - the powderhund on rehab on his mangled meniscus - cruise'n to jill's thrill - who/when the fuck cut out the sling and rings on the grassy ledges rap? beers and bullshit'n at the base - a heavy scent of fire in the air, like the memory of yosemite and sun-dappled mania - glorious sunset - the summer is banned and abased, fading fast in the fuck-fury dark of eight 9/16 - my first partner for sunday bailed on thursday, then my second on saturday, so, in the spirit of third-time's-the-charm, i settled for meself solo on this fine sabbath day woke of 8 w/ the sun amplifying the undigested wine in my brain-box and biding me rise and begin the purification ritual - half my gear's been building up in the trunk of the red-devil, but i thought i shoudl make an occasion of it and go aid-solo something serious - big haulbag filled of all, i stumbled to the car w/ my gear and w/ the best breakfast i could lash together in my stertorous stupor - ended up being two pale ales and a mouthful of week old pad thai, backed up w/ a duo of sad camels arrived in the lot to calm winds and calmer crowds - just didn't feel like strapping on the fifi, so reckoned to solo a corner lap first then get to it, but a few feet into the lap got to thinking back to july and the 4 laps in an evening i'd done on the occasion of the olympic kick-off - thought i oughta improve on that personal record and set the bar at six? 3 laps in the can and not a soul sighted - dripping sweat in the substantial heat, dawn just a memory by then as i'd arrived after 9 and the incipient breeze nothing more than a meteorological cock-tease - a hot glare and a heavy air christians by the holy-fuck load cluster-fucking the trail - 4 full fucking tourbuses of the little fellows, bedecked w/ their goddamn savior's gibbot, which their leader hauled up in half-carries for the great glory of dog - "aren't you folks commanded to observe the sabbath and eschew heathen labor" i queried? led by laywers, his comment immediate the product of parsing his puzzling text: "today we do His work" rounded the corner for lap 4 to find frazzled rick rigged up for a rope-solo and it didn't take long to reduce him to the dark side - we did a pair of simul solos, the first finding old boy w/ eyes as wide as irish butterballs passed a lovely lady w/ the slab well in hand, half-annoyed no doubt to weather our "helpful" comments - i can't complain about standing in line, mid-pitch, w/ such a luscious view... rick fucked-off in the fullness of time and i had but one more to get my 6, but being done w/ it, felt a prime # more the thing - rick said he knew our old boy pink had once done 8, and my heart was half-set in the spirit of competition, but then surely the cut of my jib could never be so beguiling as our dear boy in his littlewing pic - came down for a 7th lap then and sent it soon enough, my head spinning, my mind twisting and wondering where it was exactly i was again in this ever-repeating scenario - coulda managed another 2 i reckon, there was sun enough, but i thought i'd wander on back to stoke the home-fires and finish some more of this never ending chicken-coop work the wife embarked on - a fine meal of eggs n' fresh peppers n' frank's sauce, finished off w/ a gullet-full of fine wine and a gut laugh over gross humor n' now it's time for school work and an early nap! 7 laps/day - here's to 9 by the end of october? managing 3 laps per 2 hours when there's no distractions to be had, so imagine i could manage the whole shit-eria in 6 hours and call the whole thing something like 4000+ feet of climbing/scrambling/moss-hiking? 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Plaidman Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Ivan your TR's are priceless even if I can't understand half of what you are talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Ivan your TR's are priceless even if I can't understand half of what you are talking about. it's like shakespeare dood (or reading "trainspotting" or the like writ in thick scotch-slurry) - ya just gotta read it outloud to suss it out! hitting yourself in the head w/ a hammer first or sucking down a pint of your favorite spirit couldn't hurt neither... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I had my wife read it. She was laughing so hard she was screaming. Very funny stuff dood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 even if I can't understand half of what you are talking about. No truer words have been spoken. When Ivan posts a Trip Report. I only look at the pictures....I never learned to read jiberish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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