JosephH Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 This is the way this route should be climbed. It goes on gear the entire way. Glad to hear that's what you came away with as I've been saying that for years. It's not for everyone, but anyone up to the challenge should really avail themselves of the chance to experience the 'naked' YW in all its considerable glory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 We have told you guys to keep this discussion of this website. I don't think it's necessary to warn you again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 This is the way this route should be climbed. It goes on gear the entire way. Glad to hear that's what you came away with as I've been saying that for years. It's not for everyone, but anyone up to the challenge should really avail themselves of the chance to experience the 'naked' YW in all its considerable glory. We both talked about how after experiencing YW in this fashion we would not be able to clip any of the bolts or pitons again. It was more gratifying climbing in this fashion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 We have told you guys to keep this discussion of this website. I don't think it's necessary to warn you again. not that i've been participating in the conversation in any fashion north of negative or south of unfunny, but wasn't the whole bacon forum created to contain the inevitable beacon-based carping in an abode that all but the concerned would be eschewing anyhow? the only way to keep most of the beatards posting on this website from bitching or bitching about the bitchers is to put a bullet in'em, which, while undeniably utilitarian, fails several key tests of common morality viva la beacon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 viva la beacon! bacon All fixed for ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Why would you restrict folks from discussing the most important issue facing Beacon, access? No offense, but how does one with 3 TRs about snow skiing become the moderator of the Beacon forum? I'll take my answers off the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 interesting to note there is a 10 to 1 views to replies ratio for this thread - wouldn't that indicate that really the only people bothering to view the thread are those who are actually participating? wouldn't that mean it's not really, if truly negative, driving folks away from the overall site? geoff, you bucking to become the moderator for the forum, 'cuz i'm sure off would looooove to wash his hands of it?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Forgot to add, I am not asking for this position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 further interesting to note, then, that bacon-politics is pretty much the same as regular politics - everyone wants to bitch, but hardly anybody really wants to be directly involved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Why would you restrict folks from discussing the most important issue facing Beacon, access? This stuff is in an endless loop that essentially has not changed for 7 years. If you want to see someones position, all a person has to to is just do a search and there are 20 posts identical to the last one which all state the persons same thing but have different dates. All that is left is personal attacks and acrimony. Young Adam (and LCK) are still taking a shot being involved and trying to achieve something, feel free to help him/them, but posting here won't do anything positive IMO. So if anyone is interested best to contact him directly. No offense, but how does one with 3 TRs about snow skiing become the moderator of the Beacon forum? I'll take a shot at this one too: you own the site and get sick and tired of real climbers bitching to you via PMs about the various slander and antagonistic BS that is playing out in a nightmarish climbing version of ground hog day by various assholes (Jons view) on the Beacon forum. Hope that clarifies Jons position. He may wish to fine tune it, but I suspect I am guessing the basics. I'll take my answers off the air. Like hell, take it like a man, full on in the beacon forum. LOL! You're welcome Geoff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Oh, and here is a photo of Ujahn following me on Lost Warriors, which someone...won't say who....they did the FA though I will add....really needs to work on cleaning better. Got to spend the weekend with Ujahn and his wife at the coast and we got some bouldering (and Kayaking) in while the wives watched down by Oceansides. Good times. CAMERA TILT, CAMERA TILT!!!!! One handed snapshot. Sorry. And now, I will go home and drink some wine. Feel free to join me counselor, your company is always warm and welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Really, that grassy choss heap could tip over tomorrow and nobody would care. You guys need to chip in on a gas card, pack up your car and drive to one of the MANY places in Western America that has GREAT climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 heretic, heretic! if i had a teleporter or a real job i'd sure climb in yosemite n' index more often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 it's also worth pointing out that there's really only something like a half dozen of regular clibmers out at the fabulous bacon-wand who do anything like real bitching, on the interwebz or otherwise - most of us just find it a convenient spot to get a burn on and generally chuckle our asses off while there, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Really, that grassy choss heap could tip over tomorrow and nobody would care. You guys need to chip in on a gas card, pack up your car and drive to one of the MANY places in Western America that has GREAT climbing. Why don't you just STFU! This is our crag and if you ever climbed there or did anything but sport climb or climb in the gym you would know that it is off the hook awesome. Granted I don't know you but why don't you just mind your own business. We love to bitch about shit and that is just the way it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Oh my I miss Portland! Without a question the most colorful locals I've ever met. Plaid any chance you can rope gun me up the SE Corner? I mostly just sport climb these days and would love a chance to go for a 6 hour siege on the SE corner. I'll be down there this Fall and would love to hit Beacon. -Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) If we can't do The Corner in under 3 hours we should just give up climbing. But really Young Warriors is the better climb out there. Still love The Corner though. Then there is Free For All and Right Gull. And don't forget Jill's Thrill. Now that I am done on my route on The Steeple I have some free time. Let me know when you are around. Edited August 21, 2012 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Really, that grassy choss heap could tip over tomorrow and nobody would care. You guys need to chip in on a gas card, pack up your car and drive to one of the MANY places in Western America that has GREAT climbing. Why don't you just STFU! This is our crag and if you ever climbed there or did anything but sport climb or climb in the gym you would know that it is off the hook awesome. Granted I don't know you but why don't you just mind your own business. We love to bitch about shit and that is just the way it is. Now that is some damn funny shite-talking right there, Plaid. Being relatively new and all to climbing and Beacon (and so enthusiastic) you should probably get a pass on this one given, as you say, you really don't know who you're talking to here (which, you probably should, as a 'Beacon local' anyway)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Oh, and here is a photo of Ujahn following me on Lost Warriors, which someone...won't say who....they did the FA though I will add....really needs to work on cleaning better. Yeah, and need to get up there and check out the story on the topout given the big rock fall alterations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Forgot to add, I am not asking for this position. Dude, you need to corner the market on Columbia River Gorge forum lawyering - you'd clean up and retire early! You can't let this hoity-toity 'the III and all' guy scoop up all the good Beacon clients here on cc.com. I'm sure the mods would listen to you after a big ad buy, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Plaid, I'd love to get out and take a trip up the SE corner. But might have to wait till later. I discovered this crack about 5 minutes from my house the other day, I went out and bought "Freedom of the Hills" and am going to learn how to place gear so I can do this route. Looks really good. Once I lead this route, I'll be ready for the SE Corner. Have fun guys but be nice. [img:center]http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/Anders-Ourom/CleanCrackJune1977.jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 be sure to buy a pair of vintage EBs and don't forget to wear a shirt, eldiente. both are important elements of the tradman look. also, a bandanna on the head is highly recommended as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I think I've done that line. Squamish ...? May have been wearing the EBs, it was nuts for me too. Good times. Schweet photo. If it's 5 min from your house you don't need to come to Beacon rock to get yer stoke on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 be sure to buy a pair of vintage EBs and don't forget to wear a shirt, eldiente. both are important elements of the tradman look. also, a bandanna on the head is highly recommended as well! Where are your proper tight-tight shorts and/or neon spandex, dude? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Plaid, I'd love to get out and take a trip up the SE corner. But might have to wait till later. I discovered this crack about 5 minutes from my house the other day, I went out and bought "Freedom of the Hills" and am going to learn how to place gear so I can do this route. Looks really good. Once I lead this route, I'll be ready for the SE Corner. Have fun guys but be nice. [img:center]http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/Anders-Ourom/CleanCrackJune1977.jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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