eldiente Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Free solo of Clean Crack? Bold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 it's croft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 it's croft He wears short-shorts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Really, that grassy choss heap could tip over tomorrow and nobody would care. You guys need to chip in on a gas card, pack up your car and drive to one of the MANY places in Western America that has GREAT climbing. Why don't you just STFU! This is our crag and if you ever climbed there or did anything but sport climb or climb in the gym you would know that it is off the hook awesome. Granted I don't know you but why don't you just mind your own business. We love to bitch about shit and that is just the way it is. Now that is some damn funny shite-talking right there, Plaid. Being relatively new and all to climbing and Beacon (and so enthusiastic) you should probably get a pass on this one given, as you say, you really don't know who you're talking to here (which, you probably should, as a 'Beacon local' anyway)... Okay, I confess, if I'd been drinking this set of nested quotes would have beer spraying out my nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Of course it's Croft, his shirt is off and he "thumbs up"!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam 7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy 7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read 7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev 7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14 7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails - did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses! dave's vid: [video:youtube] 7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home! 7th day at beacon this season 7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette... 8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Wow nice crack! Plaid, I'd love to get out and take a trip up the SE corner. But might have to wait till later. I discovered this crack about 5 minutes from my house the other day, I went out and bought "Freedom of the Hills" and am going to learn how to place gear so I can do this route. Looks really good. Once I lead this route, I'll be ready for the SE Corner. Have fun guys but be nice. [img:center]http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/Anders-Ourom/CleanCrackJune1977.jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam 7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy 7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read 7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev 7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14 7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails - did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses! dave's vid: [video:youtube] 7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home! 7th day at beacon this season 7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette... 8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour Are you aspiring dirtbags taking advantage of the free bread and such at the thrift store in Washougal? Right next to Les Schwab, on the way to Bacon Rock. They usually have a good selection of day old bagels, breads, salads and random produce for FREE. This Dirtbagger Tip-o-the Week has been brought to you by the BRDA (Bacon Rock Dirtbagger Associmanation). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Are you aspiring dirtbags taking advantage of the free bread and such at the thrift store in Washougal? Right next to Les Schwab, on the way to Bacon Rock. They usually have a good selection of day old bagels, breads, salads and random produce for FREE. This Dirtbagger Tip-o-the Week has been brought to you by the BRDA (Bacon Rock Dirtbagger Associmanation). Dirtbag On!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 Still waiting for someone else to go out and climb YW's sans any bolts or pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Still waiting for someone else to go out and climb YW's sans any bolts or pins. Is that part of your personal reason for doing it bolt-less? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 Still waiting for someone else to go out and climb YW's sans any bolts or pins. Is that part of your personal reason for doing it bolt-less? I have my reasons. I really enjoyed climbing it this way. Way more exciting. I have not thought on that climb in a long time....but this way I had to think again. Super fun. The only bolt I can ever remotely justify is the crux bolt on the 4th pitch. Like you said Dave....its not that hard. But I thought it did take a different state of mind. Very fun. I recommend it. And I am in no way recommending the bolts be yanked or any of that crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 The only bolt I can ever remotely justify is the crux bolt on the 4th pitch. I'm glad to hear we're past the butthole bolt idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Perhaps this is a good time to remind everyone that it is the first ascentionists of a route that have the say on whether additional bolts or fixed gear are added or taken off a route. Period. In the case of Young Warriors that would be Jim Opdyke and co. Jills Thrill, Jim opdyke again. Way to crush it Kevbone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Nice call Tiimtraveler. However, Jim has forsaken the Beaconwand for Washingtons newest climbing area. Photographic bolt clipping proof. Jimmy on Jimmies Favorite P1 at Jimmies yesterday. LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 He told me about it last night. He lead his "favorite" climb even though he had never climbed it. LOL..... Nice shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 He told me about it last night. He lead his "favorite" climb even though he had never climbed it. LOL..... Nice shot. Yup! ....although point in fact I did drop him off at Beacon after we were done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Perhaps this is a good time to remind everyone that it is the first ascentionists of a route that have the say on whether additional bolts or fixed gear are added or taken off a route. So far Kevin was the only one who suggested adding a bolt. The only protection bolt I ever added at Beacon (and then removed), I did with Opdycke, at his suggestion, and with his help. Ditto the only anchor I added and then removed - at his suggestion and with his help (removed despite the fact, as Opdycke repeatedly pointed out, there was an anchor there originally as can still be seen today). That all said YW p1 is ridiculously overbolted, but Opdycke said that was done deliberately at the time to toss a bone to folks who came out looking for bolted lines. As far as anchors go, I'd personally remove about 60% of them entirely, but hey, that's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Good job Bill! I saw Jim out at Beacon after he climbed with ya and he was positively brimming over with enthusiasm for Jimmy's. However, after viewing your photo, I am going to let you guys have it, as you're scaring me. For the guys who did Right Gul on Sunday and got torn and thrashed by the blackberry bushes, I have heard they are no longer. Right Gul good to go~. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Jimmy's is the chossiest "climbing" crag that I've ever seen. It makes Ozone circa 2004 look bulletproof. I was afraid just to walk the base. It never occurred to me to actually put up a route somewhere in all the choss. One wrong flick of the rope, or even a good sneeze, and you might be buried in choss. That said, it's a pretty area, and braver folks than me (and who are much much much more determined to put up new routes) appear to be spending their free time putting up moderates for others to enjoy, so good for them. In 10 years I might check it out again. Nah, probably not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) I climbed Chonga Line up at Jimmy's once. Exciting to be sure. Edited August 30, 2012 by Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 Choss R Us. What Bryan says is true but there are solid sections. Real real solid. But there's some real real loose sections too:-) P2 of Jimmies Favorite. I bet you'd like this route Bryan until it heads into the gaping maw, it's pretty sweet crimping on a buttress with solid bolts. You could do a real hard version which went straight up where I'm going left. The rock is perfect up there. I think this may be Shaun on Conga Line Kyle and Shaun after a Conga Line lap Jeff Thomas on the Conga cut off, you can see how solid it is right here. Theres probably 10 real fun bolted routes waiting to be put up there on the lower apron below that top picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 You had to take the bait, huh Bill? At least you're putting up routes, I can't say the same for myself these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 LOL. You're still climbing hard but most importantly raising a family Bryan: few things in life are as much of a priority or as rewarding as that IMO. Congrats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 30, 2012 Author Share Posted August 30, 2012 importantly raising a family Bryan: few things in life are as much of a priority or as rewarding as that IMO. Congrats. Agreed 100%. Spending time with my two children is about as good as it gets. IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.