ivan Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Trip: Beasodden Rock - Dimwits in Da Deluge Date: 10/17/2009 Trip Report: it was miker's bday, so what better way to spend it then getting kicked in the balls by mother nature in all her dank nastiness? the plan - get up aided-by-fewer b4 the skies opened, then the b-day boy would get his first ascent of the pipeline headwall in the expected downpour - we'd enjoy the mother of all kewl beacon raps from there, then maybe see if we couldn't get up the corner, a la terray and lachnel climbing through waterfalls on the eiger the first part went all to plan, though in my state of extreme mental confusions, brought on by a variety of factors, i left my full liter thermos bottle of hot coffee at home - it was to be sorely missed - i made good time up aided-by-fewer (or should it be aided-by-furher, as i'd just given my dome a nice new shave?), lowered down from the top anchor to the lower one, then set to pimp'n as mike got even w/ me on the clean, the first hint of the darkness of satan's asshole dawned in the west - rumbles of thunder - ominious vibes for the clueless crew i prepared as best i could, which involved removing my previously doctored trash compactor bag from my pack and strapping it on - dirt bag aid climbers don't need no stinking goretex! mike cast off even as the downpour began, interspersed w/ about a baker's dozen of bright lights of death down by the boat landing n' rock shaking rumbles mikey didn't appear too concerned - even as i progressively jammed myself further and further into the deep abyss made by the gaint detached column of free for all, looking for shelter from the storm [video:youtube] ever hear thunder at beacon? - come get some! [video:youtube] que bastardo! [video:youtube] this time last year, mike belayed me in the dry from this same perch - i wondered why the death aid-route i did was called 'fresh squeeze' - this trip i figured out why [video:youtube] cleaning the route turned into a real bitch - somehow i fucked up the initial traverse, the huge rope stretch and sodden rope making things a big bitch - halfway up the pitch i discovered that, after mike clipped an old pin on route, his weight partially unseated it and dragged it down, trapping the draw - he didn't notice this and continued on up, eventually leaving our single hammer on a beak he placed another 10 meters up - i intended on lowering down to clean the entire draw, but upon attempting this manouver, i discovered to my horror that my gri really couldn't pay out the sodden rope w/o sphincter-destroying starts n' stops, obdurantly refusing slack until suddenly it'd give 5 feet of it - after fucking w/ it for a few tries and scaring the shit out of meself , right under a waterfall, i said fuck it and decided to make it a challenge - the mammut sling and 2 biners were the ones i bootied of the capitan i think, and its a challenge for you sir, reading this - can you beat me back to it? fwiw, i'd be sure to have a hammer to clean the draw and fix the pin our rap off sean's new anchors was nice - nothing like shipping 5 quarts of black water right down your crotch off the belay device kenny n' justinp had set up a pimp shack below aided-by-more-now - i ducked under it, shed all my wet clothes (read, "all my clothes), immediately began chain-smoking cigs that werent' mine, and caught mike completing this most excellent rap [video:youtube] the tranquility of cover sit in - things took their natural course - the rain abated adn threatened to stop entirely, and i took to videotaping shiny things [video:youtube] after that, there was no stopping us - we eschewed the niagra falls torrent of the corner's 1st pitch for the bar and tied it on good n' tight, my wife being particularly delighted by the resulting 7-12 nap i then took upon reaching home next! Gear Notes: aid stuff yo! trash compactor bags Approach Notes: not the best of days for a flip-flop approach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 I was in the gorge under an overhang when hell broke loose and I was wishing I was home watching porn on TV or something interesting. After over an hour of watching the water get progressively closer I dashed to a bigger overhang under the Trembling. I would have called you guys but didn't have a phone number, figured you were swimming over at BEecon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 No clothes and nature taking its course.... I hope Kenny and JP are alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miker Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Excellent birthday all the way around. Only note, stop videoing in portrait mode unless you can spin it later as it is very annoying to watch. My shit is still wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 Only note, stop videoing in portrait mode how else can i make your ass look less huge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Good TR. What a rainstorm that was. Cool trivia to know Fresh Squeeze is called that for a reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinp Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Fawk it was wet! Thanks to Kenny for bringing the tarp . Ivan rapping through the Arena of Terror Kenny gettin ready for the deluge gettin my jug on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 nice justin! glad you boys didn't melt - 'course, as i recall, the rain was actually stopping as we left next time ya'll need to finish up the headwall! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 anyone else have this experience w/ grigris in the extreme wet? i probably woulda just thrown myself off the cliff if i'd had to do a single rope rap and spared myself the trouble... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 No clothes and nature taking its course.... I hope Kenny and JP are alright. I was up about 45 feet so i am just fine... no eye damage to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 anyone else have this experience w/ grigris in the extreme wet? Had similar experience w/Trango Cinch. Nice to have the prussik backup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 u boy's have paddling jackets on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 anyone else have this experience w/ grigris in the extreme wet? i probably woulda just thrown myself off the cliff if i'd had to do a single rope rap and spared myself the trouble... can't say i have any experience with gri gris in the extreme wet because i don't go climbing on rainy days. smith was dry and beautiful blue sky most of saturday. you boys need to look at expanding your carbon footprints -- although given the number of plastic garbage sacks you were using, the tradeoff for the environment would probably be a break even deal ay worst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Kenny and Justin getting wet as well, good to see it! Yeah, grigri's don't work to well with wet ropes. I was out on Saturday in White Salmon enjoying the sun doing some yardwork, thinking about how nice Beacon must be, when that storm came rolling in like a freight train and it went from sunny and warm to torrenial rains in about 5 minutes. it was awesome! You captured the ambiance Ivan with your videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 good TR, can feel the wetness, have experienced the crotch douche first hand spraying off a rap device and the special effects in the vids are kewel, makes it look like it was taken with a camera phone. I say it's always better to get out no matter the conditions, but sometimes it's sort of like fun... but not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 You captured the ambiance Ivan with your videos. I found it worked best to play ALL the videos at the same time. Anyone heading out today? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 Anyone heading out today? has it dried off enough to do anything free dave? i haven't been able to get motivated much for aid-climbing after school... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Anyone heading out today? has it dried off enough to do anything free dave? i haven't been able to get motivated much for aid-climbing after school... Not sure... looking out the window now and the sidewalks look a bit damp. I'm heading out to get the mail and might drive over and take a peak at the routes. I was hoping to get on something easy w/LCK later, maybe Jill's or YW if either are dry enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Ivan, Cruisin is mostly dry, damp in a few spots. 2nd pitch slab looks dry. LCK just showed and is looking to get out, I think. Don't think I will be able to make it today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 no worries - i recollected i had a meeting this afternoon anyhow - either of you fools playing 2morrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 u boy's have paddling jackets on? You haven't been posting much lately, andrew. The honeymoon must still be going on... 8D They were garbage bags... Ivan says his soft shell is worthless! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 don't shit on the trash bag - here it is in action! before the storm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 u boy's have paddling jackets on? You haven't been posting much lately, andrew. The honeymoon must still be going on... 8D They were garbage bags... Ivan says his soft shell is worthless! dude, get paddling jackets. you can climb out in the rain all frikin day with one of those bad boys on. good for having up on a big wall... just in case. i've been chilin out on spray cause all i do is end threads and piss people off, LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 i've been chilin out on spray cause all i do is end threads and piss people off, LOL. Your spray is the spray of light-hearted humor - as long as you understand not to take anything too seriously... The people that get pissed off are the ones who think there is a tone that comes through on the internet, of which there is none Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 u boy's have paddling jackets on? You haven't been posting much lately, andrew. The honeymoon must still be going on... 8D They were garbage bags... Ivan says his soft shell is worthless! Ivan, the was for the softshell, not the trashbags! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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