marc_leclerc Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 I had a good day in Hope... yes I know I am a cheezy poser for making these videos.... [video:vimeo]6938429 Quote
ivan Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 would be kewler if you used the superior wierd al version for the soundtrack Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 7, 2009 Author Posted October 7, 2009 would be kewler if you used the superior wierd al version for the soundtrack Yeah.... that one is quite amusing! [video:youtube]v=5ecEF0nNNoM&feature=related The best thing about my day was that immediately after this climb in the vid, I decided to have a go at a sort of longstanding project... I manages to send first go, hanging all the draws and placing the gear, so I guess I got the FA or FFA.... tons of fun! Quote
Pete_H Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 Did you borrow those pants from your girlfriend? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 7, 2009 Author Posted October 7, 2009 Did you borrow those pants from your girlfriend? wtf? Quote
bstach Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 I was expecting this soundtrack: [video:youtube]DNT7uZf7lew Quote
gertlush Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 It's cooler if you stop to blow chalk off your fingers right before the crux move. Quote
kevbone Posted October 7, 2009 Posted October 7, 2009 yes I know I am a cheezy poser for making these videos.... Not for making them. But for sharing them. Try putting it in spray next time. Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 I don't think you chalked up enough. And yep, what Kevbone said. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 8, 2009 Author Posted October 8, 2009 I don't think you chalked up enough. It was hot... I don't like the feeling and slipping, sweaty fingers when unroped. Or when climbing steeper stuff in general.... Quote
PhöQ Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 Did you notice the way to get an illusion out of this? If you stare at a single spot of the vimeo movie while the movie was stopped, the outside edges of the image shift and move! AWESOME! :tup: Quote
olyclimber Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 whatever doods. marc, these guys are all just jealous of you. not that i'm encouraging you at all. that looks dangerous and stuff. i don't know if blowing the chalk off your hands helps, could be maybe it does? anyway, until any of yall post up similar BALLZ, why don't you STFU? Quote
olyclimber Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 i saw him chalk up 5 times...all with the right hand! obviously a nervous tick. Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 these guys are all just jealous of you. You got me Porter......Now I am shamed....into... saying: Marc I am sorry and if you want I will chalk your hands for you on your next project. On a serious note: Good for you Marc on your good day...I am just not into the video...when I watch people go slow and chalk at every move I just wonder if it is the chalk they need or if it is just a pause to think out the next move and if so why not just take the time and forego the habitual use of chalk as a prop for pondering sequences. I personally have been able to climb for over twenty years and in all conditions and only felt the need to chalk in the humid climate of Krabi. But that is just me. Quote
tlinn Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 The best thing about my day was that immediately after this climb in the vid, I decided to have a go at a sort of longstanding project... I manages to send first go, hanging all the draws and placing the gear, so I guess I got the FA or FFA.... tons of fun! Damn...I scrubbed that route 3 years ago before I moved to Onterrible so I was secretly hoping you would fail so I could try it when I move back in the spring! Oh well...guess you snooze, you lose or move and lose. Quote
tlinn Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 Congrats though on the FFA and thanks for asking me if you could have a go at it first! I felt like 3 years was a very long time to ask people to stay away and not that cool. Someone needed to climb it before the moss reclaims it. Nice work! Quote
Off_White Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 I think Porter's pointing out that it's lame to make fun of someone for posting climbing content rather than blabber about what some blowhard said on the radio. Thanks for restating yourself Pilchuck, I know that for me chalking is at least partially a calming ritual, and it helps even when the little sack is almost completely empty. Quote
denalidave Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 I, for one, am anxious to see what this promising young climber will do in years to come. On the other hand, naturally gifted climbers and athletes just piss me off as I am not so fortunate. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 8, 2009 Author Posted October 8, 2009 Congrats though on the FFA and thanks for asking me if you could have a go at it first! I felt like 3 years was a very long time to ask people to stay away and not that cool. Someone needed to climb it before the moss reclaims it. Nice work! Yeah... thanks for letting me get on it! I totally botched the first two moves and thought the attempt was screwed already but I managed to switch hands at the first bolt and continue up to the last bolt before the ledge. I usually struggle with this clip and fall clipping but I managed to get set up really well and clipped okay, I guess it was all in the feet. and the last couple moves I usually attempted fairly dynamic but this timeI was in the 'sending zone' and wasn't about to just flail towards the next hold... so I locked off owith my fingertips just jammed behind the flake and did a big strenous reach toa better lock and I was done.... just some 5.8'sh climbing up the fingercrack to the top! That route is at least 3 stars IMo... the line is so nice up that flake! Quote
G-spotter Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 Congrats though on the FFA and thanks for asking me if you could have a go at it first! I felt like 3 years was a very long time to ask people to stay away and not that cool. Someone needed to climb it before the moss reclaims it. Nice work! You know that the issue is not that people have been staying away from it it is that people have been trying and failing! That thing is tuff. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 8, 2009 Author Posted October 8, 2009 Congrats though on the FFA and thanks for asking me if you could have a go at it first! I felt like 3 years was a very long time to ask people to stay away and not that cool. Someone needed to climb it before the moss reclaims it. Nice work! You know that the issue is not that people have been staying away from it it is that people have been trying and failing! sooo tue But Ive been thinking I may be able to get some Rp's and stuff behind that flake... Ive been seriously contemplating making an all trad ascent, or at least having a look at the gea rpossibilities on Rappel. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted October 16, 2009 Posted October 16, 2009 It was hot... Musta been if you needed to climb without yer shirt Quote
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