kiefner Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 Can anyone recommend good mountaineering or alpine rock routes for this weekend? I've read most of the TR's and haven't found many mountaineering routes that appear to be in good shape this time of year. I have a buddy coming in from Utah this weekend. We're both experienced mountaineers and rock climbers. Possible ideas we've tossed around are Rainier, Shucksan via Sulphide, or Baker. (Nothing too ambitious due to the variable weather forecast) Please give me some good tips; I need to show him that our Cascades are better than Utah's Wasatch! (Last time he visited in March we got skunked due to extreme avy danger.) Thank you in advance! Dave Quote
t_rutl Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 there's snow in the hills with these recent systems which should straighten out a lot of the glacier routes as long as it gets some time to settle...that and next week's weather looks stellar...i'd say your best bet out of the three would be Shuksan...the Sulphide is mellow and easily traversed late season and the summit will give a taste of rock, albeit loose...if you search the Shuksan TR's there is a nice mid-5th alternative to the gulley ascent of the pyramid that would give your friend a great taste of Cascade climbing...that and i think the views into the North Cascades are some of the most impressive good luck! Quote
Choada_Boy Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 Baker was a bit of a death trap before it stared snowing, FYI. The Easton was considered "impassable" by the guides and the Roman Wall was being pelted from above by the "grey band", the edge of the normally hidden summit crater (Carmelo Crater). The CD route was also exposed to considerable ice fall from east of Colfax Peak. A guide reported needing 9.5h to get to the summit from the top of the Hogsback, with a strong client, multiple belayed crevasse crossings, ice fall, and significant objective hazards and fear. There will probably be at least a foot of new snow by the time this system plays out, on top of very hard late season snow and ice, which would make for very poor bonding and increased avalanche danger, IMHO. Check out Scurlock's picture: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889 Quote
Pete_H Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 I have a buddy coming in from Utah this weekend. We're both experienced mountaineers and rock climbers. Possible ideas we've tossed around are Rainier, Shucksan via Sulphide, or Baker. (Nothing too ambitious due to the variable weather forecast) Obviously you haven't done much mountaineering in Washington because you're probably going to get skunked again. Quote
t_rutl Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) Baker was a bit of a death trap before it stared snowing, FYI. The Easton was considered "impassable" by the guides and the Roman Wall was being pelted from above by the "grey band", the edge of the normally hidden summit crater (Carmelo Crater). The CD route was also exposed to considerable ice fall from east of Colfax Peak. A guide reported needing 9.5h to get to the summit from the top of the Hogsback, with a strong client, multiple belayed crevasse crossings, ice fall, and significant objective hazards and fear. There will probably be at least a foot of new snow by the time this system plays out, on top of very hard late season snow and ice, which would make for very poor bonding and increased avalanche danger, IMHO. Check out Scurlock's picture: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889 i agree Baker's in poor shape and prob not the best chance for success...but i dont think as nearly as bad as you're making it sound...unless things have drastically changed in the past few days...Dan was just up there and skied the CD from 10.3k and while the objective dangers may be high it's still passable to the summit with a little spice...he did it solo btw Dan's TR from last week The route up looked like it had not seen crampon point in at least a day, and was a little difficult to follow, but the crevasses -- although numerous and intimidating at times -- were easily negotiated, with few sketchyish bridges -- all and all -- the CD is in better condition crevasse wise than the last 2 years I've been up there, unlike the Easton which is currently heinously crevassed. Edited October 1, 2009 by t_rutl Quote
Choada_Boy Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 Baker was a bit of a death trap before it stared snowing, FYI. The Easton was considered "impassable" by the guides and the Roman Wall was being pelted from above by the "grey band", the edge of the normally hidden summit crater (Carmelo Crater). The CD route was also exposed to considerable ice fall from east of Colfax Peak. A guide reported needing 9.5h to get to the summit from the top of the Hogsback, with a strong client, multiple belayed crevasse crossings, ice fall, and significant objective hazards and fear. There will probably be at least a foot of new snow by the time this system plays out, on top of very hard late season snow and ice, which would make for very poor bonding and increased avalanche danger, IMHO. Check out Scurlock's picture: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889 i agree Baker's in poor shape and prob not the best chance for success...but i dont think as nearly as bad as you're making it sound...unless things have drastically changed in the past few days...Dan was just up there and skied the CD from 10.3k and while the objective dangers may be high it's still passable to the summit with a little spice...he did it solo btw Dan's TR from last week The route up looked like it had not seen crampon point in at least a day, and was a little difficult to follow, but the crevasses -- although numerous and intimidating at times -- were easily negotiated, with few sketchyish bridges -- all and all -- the CD is in better condition crevasse wise than the last 2 years I've been up there, unlike the Easton which is currently heinously crevassed. He also said: "That whole upper area above the cleaver is a shooting gallery -- at about 10k a milk-quart size rock was rolling towards me in high speed lobs, and exploded into fragments 10 feet away on exposed pebble ice, shrapnel whizzed past as I attempted to protect my face etc..." If getting smashed is your idea of "spice", go for it, but I wouldn't recommend the route to someone who feels the need to ask about it right now as an option for this weekend. Quote
Pete_H Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 Combine that with zero visibility and sounds like good times!! Quote
t_rutl Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 If getting smashed is your idea of "spice", go for it, but I wouldn't recommend the route to someone who feels the need to ask about it right now as an option for this weekend. i didnt recommend it...i said in my first post that out of the 3 he listed Shuksan would prob be his best bet and gave a suggestion to avoid any loose rock in the gulley my only point was that 9.5 hrs from the Hogsback seemed excessive and the ROUTE is not in as bad of shape as you made it out to be... to quote myself: "while the objective dangers may be high it is still passible to the summit with a little spice" dont make it out to sound like i said anything more than i did Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) You're facing kind of a tough weather forecast/conditions this weekend. I'd go east, WA Pass for less committing day routes, or Stuart Range if you're feeling lucky, but expect freezing poo from above. The big glaciated peaks will probably suck so much ass this weekend, cuz, you know, that's why they have glaciers on them. Perhaps a run up Goose Egg Mountain followed by some Tieton cragging might be in order. Edited October 1, 2009 by tvashtarkatena Quote
danhelmstadter Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 with soft new snow to cushion/absorb rockfall on baker(assumeing there is new soft snow) that hazard will be reduced -- but new wind drifted snow will likely hide a few deep crevasses, no big deal if you are roped and practiced at that kind of thing. if you go up the roman wall -- watch out for a big nasty moat at the top (could possibly be egshell covered after this new snow) that's likely going to be a dangerous situation this fall untill we get a few good storms. there're probably some touchy slabs up there now too, which might turn to wet slabs with the forecasted sun ++ fr levels next week... Quote
j_b Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 The west side couloir on Dragontail (starting at Colchuck Col). Quote
Rad Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 You're facing kind of a tough weather forecast/conditions this weekend. I'd go east, WA Pass for less committing day routes, or Stuart Range if you're feeling lucky, but expect freezing poo from above. The big glaciated peaks will probably suck so much ass this weekend, cuz, you know, that's why they have glaciers on them. Perhaps a run up Goose Egg Mountain followed by some Tieton cragging might be in order. Yep. Snow down to low elevations so be prepared for cold conditions if you go alpine. Quote
Choada_Boy Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 If getting smashed is your idea of "spice", go for it, but I wouldn't recommend the route to someone who feels the need to ask about it right now as an option for this weekend. i didnt recommend it...i said in my first post that out of the 3 he listed Shuksan would prob be his best bet and gave a suggestion to avoid any loose rock in the gulley my only point was that 9.5 hrs from the Hogsback seemed excessive and the ROUTE is not in as bad of shape as you made it out to be... to quote myself: "while the objective dangers may be high it is still passible to the summit with a little spice" dont make it out to sound like i said anything more than i did A more careful read would indicate that I didn't say YOU had recommended it, but instead that I wouldn't. Yes. It is passable to the summit if you are willing to expose yourself to serious objective hazards, such as being pelted from above by rocks for the last 1000 or so feet to the summit or being crushed by a calving glacier. Good luck with that. Quote
Pete_H Posted October 1, 2009 Posted October 1, 2009 40% pre cip Vantage and Tieton. Cragging even looks like shit this w/e. Quote
Lowell_Skoog Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Check out Scurlock's picture: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889 That's a bloody amazing picture. Has Mt Baker's summit ever been so bare of snow and ice in our lifetimes? Quote
pms Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Scurlock would probably know, but I doubt it. I thought the Shuksan/Sulphide was a good suggestion for a climb once the weather improves, otherwise head east. Quote
Choada_Boy Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Carmelo Crater's been mapped with ground (ice) penetrating radar. Check out Scurlock's picture: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/117410889 That's a bloody amazing picture. Has Mt Baker's summit ever been so bare of snow and ice in our lifetimes? I suppose that depends how old you are? I am informed that it is "probable[sic] the scoria rim that we first see in the 1940 USGS vertical air photos". Anyone know of or have access to these? Quote
Choada_Boy Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 i agree Baker's in poor shape and prob not the best chance for success...but i dont think as nearly as bad as you're making it sound... Third-hand account: "he reported he was ‘extremely anxious the entire route and even frightened a time or two’. In addition to the ice and rock fall, the Coleman route is mostly very hard glacier ice, with many large crevasses to end run, jump across on ice screw belays, or steep rock-studded ice slopes to descend and ascend. The top of the Roman Wall above the Pumice Ridge is a sheet of talus on ice, with a steady barrage of rock fall coming off the newly exposed Carmelo Crater rim all the time" Quote
mountainsloth Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 don't mess with glaciers at this time of year... stick to the rock. enchantments are hard to beat. They will certainly put Utah to shame Quote
goatboy Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Regarding Dragontail - isn't the Colchuck Glacier nasty and icy right now? Quote
goatboy Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Okay Choada and Rutl, Maybe you two should take your argument elsewhere and stop distracting from this thread's request for a route for this weekend? Quote
Choada_Boy Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Maybe not. I'm clearly trying to un-recommend Baker right now. Here are some recommendations: Prusik in a day Snow Creek Wall link-up (Orbit & Outerspace) WA Pass (but it's probably got some new snow up there) Blue Buttress Pika Peak (or whatever it's called) Quote
fredrogers Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Yup. The Noth Cascades have a nice coating of fresh today. Mt. Gardner looks pretty again. Quote
j_b Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 You're right goatboy, but I am hoping for a little fresh snow that may stick .. or not. Quote
t_rutl Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 Okay Choada and Rutl, Maybe you two should take your argument elsewhere and stop distracting from this thread's request for a route for this weekend? it's ok gb...i gave up trying to get through...first he agrees that i didnt recommend Baker now has to perpetuate to "un-recommend" my recommendation? but i dont see it as an argument...got nothing against him as i dont know him but do think he's a respectable climber and his warnings have merit on topic: sunday's weather looks fairly promising...if a (long) day trip maybe Twin Sisters or something in the Mountain Loop Hwy area? Quote
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