you thought WA antibolting was hardcore?

[layton]

complete removal of a climbing area by antibolters in SLC

 

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/northern_utah__idaho/geezer_wall_bolt_removal/106554912

[Edlinger]

These guys would definitely remove the bolts on Infinite Bliss on Mt.Garfield

[JosephH]

OMG! Someone has wiped out Ozone East! I can hear the drills weeping. But as Mike said on that thread, maybe this was taking the pressure off of other areas just as Ozone does for Beacon. Then again, it gets back to the simple reality that at this point, and as Mike White points out on that thread, the drilling is insatiable and unstoppable. Sure, SLC and BCC has plenty of rock, but the same thing is happening across the country and in lots of areas with a far more limited pallet of crags.

[billcoe]

I'm sorry to see such things. "Vy can't ve chust climb !"

 

Good to see you posting Mike, but it would be better if these reports from Utah had some topless Mormon girl pictures on here instead of this....jus' sayin'....

 

 

 

 

ps, there is a length discussion going 25 pages on this subject if anyone wants to fire it BACK up. CLICK THIS LINK

[selkirk]

Grid bolting sucks

 

Chopping bolts on the sly so no one knows who you are also sucks and makes you a pussy.

 

Moderate and easy routes for beginners with reasonable bolting

 

Topless Mormon girls :tup:

[selkirk]

Arrogant, dogmatic, closed minded, self righteous, holier than thou, son's of bitches, who are convinced that they, and only they have the correct opinion on any given topic suck even more!! (that goes for militant southern baptists and anti-bolters both!!)

[pope]

Don't getchyer panties in a bunch. Those bolts will regenerate themselves faster than that pesky rash on your left nut.

[layton]

i wish the world was a giant bolt

[JosephH]

It is.

[Pete_H]

I agree that gridbolted 5.5's and 5.6's are pretty stupid, but really what does it hurt other than the gapers climbing them. As Mike said, probably takes some pressure off some other crags.

[Bug]

I have an alibi.

[pope]

I agree that gridbolted 5.5's and 5.6's are pretty stupid, but really what does it hurt other than the gapers climbing them. As Mike said, probably takes some pressure off some other crags.

 

I don't care if it's 5.2 or 5.22, grid bolting is dang stupid. And so are fake boobs.

[mkporwit]

I agree that gridbolted 5.5's and 5.6's are pretty stupid, but really what does it hurt other than the gapers climbing them. As Mike said, probably takes some pressure off some other crags.

 

I don't care if it's 5.2 or 5.22, grid bolting is dang stupid. And so are fake boobs.

So is arguing on the internet...

[John Frieh]

I agree that gridbolted 5.5's and 5.6's are pretty stupid, but really what does it hurt other than the gapers climbing them. As Mike said, probably takes some pressure off some other crags.

 

I don't care if it's 5.2 or 5.22, grid bolting is dang stupid. And so are fake boobs.

 

Having climbed @ geezer wall before it was chopped I can assure you it isnt grid bolted.

[el jefe]

gotta say that layton was right on with this post:

 

"Whoever took the time to do this could have spent the same amount of time cleaning up garbage, helping the homeless, volunteering at shelters, etc etc etc. Jesus, find something better to do with your free time. At least clean up an old aid route or something worthwhile. If you think this crag is stupid and easy, then why bother with it at all? I don't enjoy sport climbing easier route that much, but I know a lot of people who do. Are they lesser people?"

 

 

[billcoe]

Having climbed @ geezer wall before it was chopped I can assure you it isnt grid bolted.

 

I'm sorry, don't be showing up here with facts and other real bullshit: only UNINFORMED OPINIONS are welcome in spray...LOL, at least that's what it seems like to me from some of these other posts, including mine.

___________________________________________________________

 

Once possible solution, it seems to me, is large diameter 1/2" x 4" stainless wedge anchors that are Red loctited in. Sure, they can be removed, but it will be a slow, difficult process, allowing locals time to catch the SOB who unbolted the earlier ones when he comes back to screw with the not so easy to pull ones.

 

Then they can process the scene via the classic baseball bats to the fuc*ers knees, take all his gear and goods on him as payment for the bolts as he cry's and whimpers in pain laying in the dirt, begging for his very life and apologizing profusely for the errors of his ways, and reduce the shitheads car to something resembling this.

 

There are times where violence can be a productive tool. Like when some thieving SOB breaks into your car, or trashes a climbing area for whatever reason. Payback can be a bitch.

 

 

[John Frieh]

good one dude

[olyclimber]

violent retribution, while very romantic, has a funny way of resulting in legal/financial repercussions for the "hero". not always, but much of the time.

[billcoe]

Fu*kem

 

"Many middle-grade climbers probably enjoy the challenge of protecting routes almost as much as the climbing. There is a great deal of satisfaction in managing cunning placements on a tricky pitch. Top climbers, on the other hand, focus on the ultimate problems of movement on rock. In practice this means that many crags are worked over and pre-protected. At Buoux, the famous limestone area in the South of France, most climbs are bolt protected. As Bart Cannon reported in Climbing after a visit to Buoux:

Not only did bolts dot the entire wall, but I realised that many of them were big cemented-in eyebolts... In true sportclimbing fashion, both these eyebolts and the standard Petzls are placed on rappel after top roping to determine their ‘natural’ place for clipping and falling. While some English climbers I met muttered about the climbs being too safe, I never saw them skip a clip, nor felt compelled to myself." -Steve Craddock,

 

1991

 

 

If one doesn't like Buoux, then one should not go there. For myself, I haven't gone there as clipping bolts is way down the list of things I enjoy. However, I quite readily do clip those I come across and in my mind, there is room for both styles and attitudes I note above.

[Off_White]

I was under the impression that a lot of those routes at Boux were not closely bolted, that you're more likely to log significant flight time than z clip. I've never been there, so rest assured my opinion is equally uninformed as Bill's.

[el jefe]

your impression is correct, off. i've been there and you couldn't possibly z-clip on any of the routes i climbed. in addition, many ended with runouts on slippery. thin moves, so significant air time was always a possibility (and occasional actuality). very engaging routes, to be sure.

 

now someone cue pope and brainfog. here's where the "but all bolts are evil" chorus is comes in...

 

 

[archenemy]

Bolt the world.

[Bug]

gotta say that layton was right on with this post:

 

"Whoever took the time to do this could have spent the same amount of time cleaning up garbage, helping the homeless, volunteering at shelters, etc etc etc. Jesus, find something better to do with your free time. At least clean up an old aid route or something worthwhile. "

 

Same could be said about the people who took the time and spent the money to put all those bolts in.

Just sayin....