billcoe Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 Yesterday in Iowa, sorry, no climbing to be had. Lots of big-assed corn though. Quote
pink Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 awww shucks...i grew up i the middle of one of those... Quote
prole Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 Is this before or after you and your associates disposed of the body? Quote
pink Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 me and my buddy malicaih used runny through it chasing the adults with butcher knives. Quote
ivan Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 Is this before or after you and your associates disposed of the body? my thoughts exactly. Quote
kevbone Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 he works for ACCORN... Â Â :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 You look like a Cornographer. Â Kevbone looks more like a cornholer Quote
t_rutl Posted September 17, 2009 Posted September 17, 2009 [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7MMTwIlWlU Quote
billcoe Posted September 17, 2009 Author Posted September 17, 2009 Is that you? Yer hot!  ....only if you have a thing for unattractive fat old guys....  If you need some better followup shots of native habitat (near PDX) Here's a picture of my wide ass up at Gothic Rocks, the Cathedral Formation, doing the first ascent of something.....I think it's "The Dragons Spine". Amazing stuff. Just like 10' high corn has not been seen by most folks, most people have never seen anything like this. Different and unique to anything else in Oregon for sure. World class stuff, except the formation is small. Maybe 400' high of fantastic knobs, but short. Knobs pop off at random and strange times and that makes for some tense times. But once this secret spot gets outed, the loose knobs will be gone a a couple of ascents and some extremely pleasing solid knob climbing will remain.    You can tell from the big fir tree there that Ujahn turned the camera-picture so it looks like I'm crawling and that it's not steep...LOL   I've been jonesing on doing the Old Witch formation out there..... My hands sweat when I think of her, which seems to be constantly. It's a total sickness. Oh yes, it must be done. Solo. The solo idea evolved from a discussion on where the poor belayer would stand, too stupid or nice to refuse to belay. Left below looking up at the leaders ass and some monster knobs that are looking for a minimal nudge and gravity to take effect: the front 10 pin in the bowling alley from hell so to speak. Solo looked better for that reason as well as the personal challenge and pull she was exerting one me. If I don't survive it let my words stand in testament to the pull she had on me, and the ferocity of which she took my mind and my heart. Bewitched by the Bitch of a Witch. Let the line I tried be forever named Salethe Highway after the great climber John Salethe and the standards of courage he set for us mortals on his Lost Arrow tip solo.  Here she stands in stark glory with her nose, mouth and chin profiled. Her hair bun will be the rap point, if it holds, for it overhangs:-) (hands still sweating). There is a compression fracture at her neck which is worrisome as well. Deep and thoughtful debate has occurred amongst those who have seen her close if the head will actually hold a climbers weight, or simply roll off her shoulders with the climber screaming and pissing all the way to the ground @400' or so below.  Distance shot of the same thing with the top marked with a black arrow. (ignore the 2nd non-shafted arrow, my bad) 1st pitch of Trench Warfare dotted White line (@ just under 200 feet long there). Proposed "The Old Witch" routes. Short right dotted black line is looking to be ground up. The front will be 3 pitches and rap bolted once if (LOL) the shorter route is established to the top. It was suggested that we could merely toss a rope over it and jug up and be done, but it didn't seem right, and I was looking forward to the shot at a ground up, natural pro, knob breaking, pants filling full value ride.  Stunning, no? I'm getting moist just looking at her...OMG! OMG! Uhh Uhh UHHOOOO! _________________________________________________________________  Edited 9/26/09:  I'm very relieved and damn happy to have completed my objective of finally climbing the Old Witch pinnacle at Cathedral Formation at Gothic Rocks today! Ground up, solo, onsight (except I'd seen it before and had some pictures I guess) natural pro, no bolts, even no bolts on top to rap off - it's a slung horn. Then my bros and I (the photographers and cheering squad) went off and added a second pitch to Lava Tube -seen below. That's Adam foot as he got the lead since it was his first time here while Ujahn and I are looking like we are wondering where the belay device has gone off too. "I thought you were belaying him?", "He's climbing now?" "Shit yeah, he's 3 bolts up already on a 2nd pitch, put him on!" "No dude, it's your turn"..."well, ya gonna put him on fer Christs sake", "No, you do it, I just told you its you turn are you daff?", "This ain't funny dude he'll land on us if he boffs taking that picture and falls so YOU put him on- I don't have a belay device", "Me either, is that it 200" below us on the ground?" "Sort of looks like it".....LOL, just kidding, never happened that way. Made it back in time for all the events. Ujahn made it to the Pearl Jam concert and we had time to see all of our bros at the 2009 Ice Fest at Portland Rock Gym and quaff a free beer....or 3.   Of the pinnacles at Cathedral Formation, the largest one, which was named "The Old Witch" for obvious reasons stands out as the pinnacle of pinnacles in this area. Much discussion ensued on amongst various climbers on how she should be defiled and devirginised. It was ruminated that given the relatively flat spot on the top, the closeness to the main wall and the knobs on her, that the best way would be to simply throw a rope over the pinnacle and top rope it, bolting as needed, as we went up. This discourse reminded me of the Lost Arrow tip saga oh so many years of old, where the great John Salethe, after a solo encounter with a scary Lost Arrow notch reconnoiter in place, watched as some others launched a rope over the top of the Arrow and gained the summit he had so eagerly had sought. My contribution to the conversation was that although we could do the rope toss, why not first take a shot at a ground up lead. This led to the conversation of where should the belayer stand? Loose rocks would undoubtedly rain down on that poor unfortunate soul who was too stupid or too kind to say no to belaying. It was suggested that the belay could be enacted from 30' over and up near a large tree, and the rope could just drop down and then up to the climber. Any rocks would drop free into space then. In the back of my mind, I wondered if perhaps just trying a solo lead of her might not be the best way to approach her. Soon this apparently random innocuous thought began to take over my mind. Daily, at work and at home my thoughts would turn again and again back to the problem, and I examined it over and over until it was me and I was it. I went to sleep thinking of her, I dreamt of her while sleeping, I woke up thinking of it and she would pop into my head mid-conversation daily. I was bewitched.   In August, when no partners were available, I decided it would be a perfect time to take a shot at it and had packed and was ready to go fire it. Solo. That night I got a phone call from another older climber. A stunned silence followed when I told him where I was heading alone and what I was up to in response to his question on what I was doing that weekend. He knew how remote this location was and was wondering how I would get to the top. I knew that I had given the potential route choice much more thought when I explained that 3 big Bros should get me safety to the upper pinnacle and he expressed surprise that Big Bros could be used. He politely asked if it would be OK if he could accompany me the base of the Witch and take pictures. It appeared to me that he didn't want to crowd into my dream and disrupt it and was being very sensitive to my needs while still creeping into watch my project. At one time as a younger climber, he he had been one of the best and most prolific climbers in the state, but he had dropped out of climbing to raise a family and start a business. Now he was back and had been climbing. He was still awesome company, yet his knee had decided it was time to be old and was not working worth a damn. Perhaps too much training too fast as he came back had done his knee in, but done in she was and limping slowly and painfully he was. A great photographer and perfectionist, I was honored that he wanted to tag along and get some pictures. Yet at 54 years old, balding and graying on top and 20 lbs overweight *cough* 30 *cough*, I had no illusions that anyone would get any joy from looking at any climbing pictures of me. On the drive up to the area, without being judgmental or probing my partner for the day gently explored my thoughts on this (bad) solo idea. Like a 3 year old in a candy store, I had my mind made up and that was that. We rounded the curve in the road that indicated we were within 10 miles of the cliff and were stopped dead in our tracks by an few orange barrels in the middle of the road which were accompanied by a large ROAD CLOSED" sign. We quickly dispatched with that by driving around it and made it exactly 1 more mile before we came upon 2 track hoes that were dug in 4 feet below grade where the former road was. Thwarted, saddened and dejected, we crept off with tails between legs.  One more month went by. Day and night, night and day the bewitchment continued. I worked with pictures of her on my computer, my thoughts and dreams ruled by thoughts of her. A long month later, some other projects bagged, I cautiously called the FS and learned that the road would open that Friday afternoon. A quick call to my buds Ujahn and Adam and plans were changed on the fly. I apologized for still selfishly wanting to solo the route, but the next morning found us driving out there anyway. The hike in was noteable only as we neared the cliff and my sweaty palms and thoughts were starting to focus on the route, Ujahn wanted to start a conversation on if this was a smart or sane thing to do...this helped up my fear level an additional notch or 3.  For the Witch climb I had convinced myself that I could figure out which knobs would hold, and thus not endanger myself, too much, or less anyway. The last FA I'd led out here, "The Dragons Spine", had a couple of near misses on lead when I popped footholds and was dangling by my other 3 points. That, however, would have been a fall onto a solid bolt that I'd placed myself. Bomber 1/2" x 6-1/4" Stainless steel wedge anchors in fact. With that as a backdrop, it was an inauspicious beginning when the very first 2 footholds I tried, and which were significantly sized and "should" have held, gave way immediately and crumbled off as I stepped on them before I got the one below and it it held. In addition to the testes shrinking effect, this gave me pause and made for great entertainment and viewing as I watched them take their sweet time and fly towards the ground. I thought about this while I watched them, would the holds up high be like that? What if there was no pro? This had the effect of causing me to be tense and yet deeply focused as, balls crowding into the spot next to my Adams Apple, I ascended anyway. You can see all of the natural protection possibilities visible *cough* cough* to me in these pictures. Or not visible in this case. One crappy and weaksauce Big bro went in which wouldn't have held a dog on a leash and I ducked to the otherside of the pinnicle and took a cleansing breath as I found a good nut placement.  My buds thought it went pretty fast, perhaps 35-45 min of climbing. That could be 'cause they were preoccupied. I was listening to them play grab ass like 2 young ferrets over there on the main cliff while I stared Death on a dark Stallion right in the eyes, full on Snaileye - bastards. LOL! Here's Ujahn while I try and sort gear, stack the rope into the pack, get organized, etc etc. Actually, I was happy not to be screwing up their day, as later when I was apologizing for doing the "ME ME ME ME thing, they told me that just watching me climb solo was a super thing for them as well, so it was a good thing all the way around.  I had been dreaming and scheming on going to go up the right side, and hoping to plug a cam or something into that visible recess as that looked like the best side for pro. I evaluated it for a couple of min. from the pedestal there and was surprised to see that the left side was actually far superior. I clipped off the 2 Big Bros on a slung horn and leaving them dangling uselessly, continued up. I'll most likely come back and run up the right side next time when I'm belayed. Looks do-able for sure as long as you don't fall before you plug gear, cause even if you stuck the landing, it would hurt in bad places.  Easy with nice feet here. Boffing it as a solo would really suck though.  Money shot of the Witch, THIS IS WHY IT'S CALLED THE OLD WITCH. See her there? The mouth, tooth, nose etc etc ? OMG! OMG! Uhh Uhh UHHOOOO! ...sorry...    Topping out.  Plopped my ass down and draped a rap sling on her hair bun. We'll come back later and add a bolt so a sitting belay can be effected on Bewitched, and an extra ring and sling so that the belay holds up through the years for folks.  It was insanely easier than I thought as well. Rappelled into the notch and was soon breathing easier. Wham bam ran up her. No bolts needed was a surprise as well. I'd been hoping for it and planning on it, but had clipped a 7mm tag line to my wide ass with the power drill on the other end ...just in case. I guess all the pants pissing sessions and stomach butterfly's were totally needless.....my Magic™ Fish brand™™ tie offs were amazing. I got the 2 larger ones on knobs. Did I tell ya that Fish Products Rules and how I came to own those ties offs? He made up some of these custom tie offs just for me for this area when I told him what I was up too. I think he didn't charge me either, just tossed them into a large order gratis. Here's what a large Magic™ Fish brand™™ tie off look like in use waiting to be clipped for protection.  Oh, named it "Salethe Highway" for all the obvious reasons. In conversations with the bros, I used the word "Bewitched" in describing the strong attraction the Witch had on me. We all thought that would be a great name of the full length, full value route up the Witch buttress.  Here's the view of the route from the 2nd pitch of Lava Tube when we were over there. In addition to a route up from Trench Warfare, (maybe 2) thinking a line in over to Salethe highway from Lava Tube would make for a full value 400 foot 5.7 knob slobbing ride unlike anything in the state. People who show up will be simultaneously freaking out and in love with her when they do these routes. Check it out, these are the lines I'm talkin' about! Big time moderates and real fun to climb. Lots of different body positions and balance issues. Challenging yet enjoyable. Read these words twice: she will take her place as the very most popular and most climbed of the elite group of major notable pinnacle climbs in Oregon.  Sorry for all the pictures, but I thought that there should be as many pics as knobs and I just about have it there.  All pictures Adam Winslow and Ujahn Davisson. Gear notes: 2 medium nuts, a Medium Metolius Supercam, 4 slings and/or Fish tie offs for knobs. 2 Ferrets or a Badger.  Quote
The_Rooster Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 Yesterday in Iowa, sorry, no climbing to be had. Lots of big-assed corn though. Â Â HELLO! Â Can you provide directions to this place?!??? Â Thanks for posting! Â COCKADOODLE DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!! Â Quote
The_Rooster Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 dude, beware of GMO corn. Â Well I already live on an organic farm! But I got to thinking...by the time the GMO corn could cause me any problems, I'll probably have already long since met my destiny as a Cordon Bleu sandwich! So I'll take whatever corn I can get! Â Thanks for your concern! Â Quote
j_b Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 a "cordon bleu sandwich"? you aren't aiming very high. A coq au vin or chicken cacciatore at the very least. Although if you eat GMO corn, you'll be much less desirable (my lovely) Quote
The_Rooster Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 a "cordon bleu sandwich"? you aren't aiming very high. A coq au vin or chicken cacciatore at the very least. Although if you eat GMO corn, you'll be much less desirable (my lovely) Â listen, buddy, I have to be realistic! At least I aspire above chicken Mcnuggets! Quote
Bug Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 You've already been around too long to be anything but chicken spread. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted September 18, 2009 Posted September 18, 2009 Yesterday in Iowa, sorry, no climbing to be had. Lots of big-assed corn though. Â Â Â Can you provide directions to this place?!??? Â It my backyard in Agassiz Quote
billcoe Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 Had Chicken for dinner. Sorry Rooster. Â Â Â Â Wish it was sunny and warm out again. Quote
Coldfinger Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Is this before or after you and your associates disposed of the body? Â In a corn-hole? Quote
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