A6+ ?

[olyclimber]

he apparently had a lot to live for!

[JBo6]

Kevbone, please for the love of god stop asking for posts to get moved to spray. Just because its a rating doesn't mean it needs to be moved. It's pretty fucking lame having to read your same inane request time after time.

 

[pink]

but this board needs kevbone

[ivan]

A7 is when you attach a timebomb to your belay.

A8 is when you do the same, but also have a 47 year old toothless "career" thai hooker blowing the belayer sans jimmy-hat

[ivan]

but this board needs kevbone

in the same sense that you need to have fucked a hideous fat-chick at some point in your life to put the hawties in perspective?

[billcoe]

but this board needs kevbone

in the same sense that you need to have fucked a hideous fat-chick at some point in your life to put the hawties in perspective?

 

uhhh....can't say about that, but given that the easiest pitch they did was suppose to be A4+, given the picture below, it looks like it might be grade inflation. To add to MountainMatts pic on top.

 

"A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches. They placed no expansion bolts at the belays. The pair based the ratings in part on their ascent last year of Intifada, on the Cottontail formation in the Fisher Towers, a route given A6 by first ascensionist Jim Beyer but said by those few that have repeated it to be A4+ or A5. "

 

Look at this one carefully, dude has his extension/Stick clip in use to take this picture. Clever.

 

No belay bolts but it appears to be a Fixe bolt bag below.

 

"Vertical mud", pretty bad-assed in either case.

 

 

[JoshK]

Sooo...in order to seem badass, they made up a new grade by comparing their route to another route that is widely accepted to have been overrated? Losers.

[billcoe]

Sooo...in order to seem badass, they made up a new grade by comparing their route to another route that is widely accepted to have been overrated? Losers.

 

Perhaps, but please Josh, they need slack for they are foreigners and not use to our sandbagging ways. LOL

 

Realistically, once the route is repeated, then the truth will be laid bare. In looking at the picture of the crack the guy is leading, in no way does it appear to be A4 (easiest pitch of the 1 was suppose to be A4+)...but I wasn't there, and it's a picture. Furthermore, A4+ of yesteryear was easier than A4+ of today....so whatever. I can't say and don't know, wasn't there. A "crack" in mud may not be quite as fun as a crack in granite or bomber Basalt eh?

 

Time will tell. I like the pictures though.

 

[JoshK]

What kind of rock/mud/clay/etc are those towers anyway? Looks rather soft and scary, and almost as if you could sink an ice tool in to it.

[mountainmatt]

It sorta reminds me of this classic TR from supertaco:

 

Mud Nailing

 

.

[korup]

Fischer Tower sandstone is the scariest crap I have ever climbed. Pebbles held together with crumbly plaster.... rap bolt heads 2" out of the "rock" due to erosion.... those guys are batshit crazy.

[mneagle]

My high school buddy Chris Kalous clarifies everything here. For cred's sake, I'll add that he did the second ascent of World's End on the Titan plus lots of other completely sick aid about a decade or so ago. Also, he is one of the nicest and enthusiastic guys you'll ever meet and he's really just having fun here, so don't go getting all bent out of shape.

 

[video:youtube]

[pink]

no way, i went to high school with him too.

[corvallisclimb]

Bob Shonerd soloed Reality Ridge too...

And WFLT with no rope, just daisys.

 

Russ Mitrovich soloed the zodiac with only daisys.

 

Supposedly shonerd used knives he took from the cafe on that time machine route and tied 2 ropes together for a 300' pitch.

[G-spotter]

When Mitrovich did it he called it "'crazy aid man Bob' style" cause Bob did it first.

[ScottP]

It sorta reminds me of this classic TR from supertaco:

 

Mud Nailing

 

.

wow

[pigchampion]

euro-fags: plain and simple

[billcoe]

2nd ascent in progress and calls the style of the FA into question:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1827613/Look-Out-Danger-Or-Look-Out-Weak-Sauce