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jibby

Ozone Fixed Gear

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The fixed alien on Angle of the Dangle(5.12c) is now gone and a bolt should replace it on this rad line.

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Its gone cause Jimmy decked lowering off it, it was an accident waiting to happen, fixed gear is whack, someone should put a bolt in the roof so this route is climbable again.

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Maybe you should run it by the "Fixed Alien and/or bolt committee"?

 

Here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/896687/20/Sport_vs_Trad

 

Of course that's a joke if you clicked that link at all. That is actually what hell will be like when we die. :lmao:

 

ps, Dustins original email to me said this: "Angle of the Dangle (12c). Draws, Small TCUs/Ball Nuts. A unique and exciting project! From right side of cave, navigate your way up to large roof crack. Punch in bomb-proof gear!! Layout, jam, then crank past the cruxy lip. Keep your composure and finish on the bolted headwall (optional piton). Prep. M. Seidenschmid / Prep & FFA Kelton Rappleyea 9.25.07"

 

Don't know what wound up in the book. Ask Dustin, Kelton and Martin about a bolt. That kid Kelton sure seems like a great guy. PM me if you need an email address.

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When the cam failed the wire stem was severed leaving the head of the cam still in the crack. You cant really place good gear in the crack now cause the head of the cam is still well stuck in there taking up the only good spot to place gear.

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Had you just placed a bolt in the first place the crack wouldn't not be permanently ruined by your trash!

 

 

Well said.

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Hola John!!

 

Those guys videoed Kelton leading the FA on that thing and he made it look like a 5.7 the kid was so smooth. It was a real good video too, and interestingly I got flack for sharing it on CC.com. You guys might do a search, it was good stuff. I guess it's OK to post some Anal fixation band video or monkeys clanging symbols, Pam Anderson pictures are fine too but interestingly any actual climbing. Say for example a super nice and strong kid pulling a sick wicked roof on gear first ascent is out of the question:-(

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interestingly I got flack for sharing it on CC.com

 

Glad to hear you're over that. I doubt you got flack from anyone who's opinion matters to you.

 

I'm glad to hear Jimmy's okay, he's my buddy.

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Dirt simple - clean the alien head out of the crack and it will then be available for another piece. Maybe use another alien to keep it spicy...

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Yep, people have been straying onto the dangle thinking it was great and easy since the day it was put up.

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Yep, people have been straying onto the dangle thinking it was great and easy since the day it was put up.

 

Great and easy are two different things JH. And no one strays onto this climb. You lower off it 20 feet back from where you start. One does not start up it without having some years under there belt as a climber, guide book or not.

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obviously you can't detect sarcasm...you just made joseph's point for him...dumbass

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Yep, people have been straying onto the dangle thinking it was great and easy since the day it was put up.

 

Great and easy are two different things JH. And no one strays onto this climb. You lower off it 20 feet back from where you start. One does not start up it without having some years under there belt as a climber, guide book or not.

 

That was sarcasm Kev, coming over from the Reasonable Richard bolt discourse you started in spray. Of course this is an obvious roof.

_________________________________________________________________

 

So how would one get the cam head out? Could the thing be sawed out? I heard of someone doing that to a Camalot once, but I think it was much bigger so it would be easier to get in to it. For the record, I don't have time to head up and work on a route that's over my head anyway so I'm out, but I'm just curious. I would think that getting in a good position (assuming the good placement is now useless) work on it might be the crux. Could you sling it around the back of the cam lobes and funkness it out?

______________________________________________________________

 

Doug, you are right, as always. I think I wound up saying F* it and deleting the thing off the site.

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Yep, people have been straying onto the dangle thinking it was great and easy since the day it was put up.

 

Great and easy are two different things JH. And no one strays onto this climb. You lower off it 20 feet back from where you start. One does not start up it without having some years under there belt as a climber, guide book or not.

 

That was sarcasm Kev, coming over from the Reasonable Richard bolt discourse you started in spray. Of course this is an obvious roof.

_________________________________________________________________

 

So how would one get the cam head out? Could the thing be sawed out? I heard of someone doing that to a Camalot once, but I think it was much bigger so it would be easier to get in to it. For the record, I don't have time to head up and work on a route that's over my head anyway so I'm out, but I'm just curious. I would think that getting in a good position (assuming the good placement is now useless) work on it might be the crux. Could you sling it around the back of the cam lobes and funkness it out?

______________________________________________________________

 

Doug, you are right, as always. I think I wound up saying F* it and deleting the thing off the site.

 

 

I dont think it was sarcasm. I think JH meant it. Most of the time he not knows what he says.

 

 

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i think you are very very dense, kevin...you need to quit dating Maryjane so much...

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i think you are very very dense, kevin...you need to quit dating Maryjane so much...

 

 

And you need to quit dating your plunger.

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