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Posted (edited)
Amusing that you'd use a photo of a guy who has regular soloed (both up and down) 5.10...

 

 

DUDE! IS THAT FOR REAL?????

SOMEONE ACTUALLY SOLOED A 5.10????

IS THAT HUMANLY POSSIBLE???

HOW COME WE HAVEN'T READ ABOUT THIS IN THE NEWS?????

And what will Chris, Tommy, Beth and all of the other BIG ROCK STARS think when they hear of this breakthrough? (My prediction: watch the competitiveness come out!!)

 

P.S., Big-Talkin' Small Fry:

Here's a picture of pope soling a little thing we like to call "Brass Balls" on Castle Rock, Leavenworth. No mattress....it was being "borrowed".

 

brassy.jpg

 

 

 

Ah, the '80s. The hair, the chicks, the shirtlessness, the pina coladas.

Edited by tvashtarkatena
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Posted
and the stuff he climbs even today will probably make us cry.

 

That happens a lot on dirty, obscure, vegetated 5.6's; that shit gets in your eyes and all.

 

Jake we had better steer clear of Index, not enough bolts and too many assholes at that place!

 

:wave:

 

 

Posted

Thanks for the invite. But do you really climb, or do you just run your mouth on cc.com all day? I see you don't have any trip reports and come to think of it, I've never seen your name associated with one.

 

After a lifetime of service in the CIA, Special Forces, and various urban police departments, I'm just getting started climbing. I don't yet have a lot to report but I wouldn't report it anyway because I'm pretty low key about what I do. I would never, for example, tell anyone that my first roped lead was a 5.12d trad climb that I onsighted. Or that I soloed the north face of Latok 1 a few years back, I didn't tell anyone cause I didn't want to ruin the adventure for the next party. I also soloed Musashi before it was bolted but I don't talk about that. And besides, these days I rope solo that kind of stuff, not that I've ever fallen on it, but nobody's perfect and I suppose it could happen.

Anyway I'm definitely interested in learning how to climb hard and I've you're the guy to talk to. Can you recommend some beginner hardman routes for me, ones that preferably have bolts not less than 12 feet apart? Also do you know any good photographers? I don't really have anything planned but sometimes the scenery behind my visage is really beautiful.

Posted

Jake's Response:

Thanks for the invite. But do you really climb, or do you just run your mouth on cc.com all day? I see you don't have any trip reports and come to think of it, I've never seen your name associated with one. Anyway, if you do wanna hook up....for climbing or maybe just to play some computer games, compare RAM and video cards and such.....that would be swell. But let's keep it private, OK? I'm pretty sure that if Pope catches us out at Index, he'll invite us to climb routes where we won't always have three bolts within reach at all times, and the stuff he climbs even today will probably make us cry.

My average crew went sport climbing on Gorilla My Dreams last night. Good stuff!

Chestbeater.gif

Gorilla My Dreams

Posted

Jake's Response:

Thanks for the invite. But do you really climb, or do you just run your mouth on cc.com all day? I see you don't have any trip reports and come to think of it, I've never seen your name associated with one. Anyway, if you do wanna hook up....for climbing or maybe just to play some computer games, compare RAM and video cards and such.....that would be swell. But let's keep it private, OK? I'm pretty sure that if Pope catches us out at Index, he'll invite us to climb routes where we won't always have three bolts within reach at all times, and the stuff he climbs even today will probably make us cry.

My average crew went sport climbing on Gorilla My Dreams last night. Good stuff!

Chestbeater.gif

Gorilla My Dreams

 

donkey-pulling-cart.jpg

Posted

Well I don't know about you Bug, but I'm inclined to spew advice, similar to the "Technicle" thread. I'm got a huge reservoir of sage advice that I can call on, and I mean that in the most modest and humble way possible. My suggestion is that the guy in the picture is clearly taking way too big of risks.

 

1. SAR will have to be called up if he slips. Alot of these SAR folks are volunteer. Do you think they have money coming out of their ears to pay for the gas money to come scrape his body off the rocks below?

 

2. What about possible climbers below? He is clearly endangering them.

 

3. What sort of example is being set here? Next thing you know, every 12-year old in the county is going to be going up there and trying to free solo this (without a rope!!!!) and getting themselves hurt or even worse.....killed. And all because this dufus had to go showing off.

 

4. That route could use a few more bolts, and it would be alot safer for the rest of the climbers who can't just fly up a 5.10.

Posted

"Look out Dawg! He's right behind you!"

 

"Don't worry about me, Pope, just pull down on the sickness!! 5.10!"

 

PopeandDawg.jpg

 

This is from Raindawg and Pope's last grave robbing expedition, where they battled the wicked Bolt Emperor and his Mummy. Notice the Queen Bolt, source of all social and moral decay.

 

 

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