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Posted

Hi all, thanks for concern. Talked to J this morning and he's still warm at core and food supply okay. Tomorrow there may be a chance with the heli but no promises. Park service is on it, including thinking about ground options if he gets colder. We'd all prefer the fly-in though.

-J's girlfriend

Posted

Really good job on handling a very difficult situation for all members of the climbing team, NPS short haul Rescuers and of course Tony Reese and Hiline Helicopters.

 

To my mind (at least) another example of Rigorous Attitude saving the day.

 

Let's all hope for a swift and full recovery, and a speedy resolution of the stranded climber's situation.

Posted

Don't stress. His situation doesn't sound fun but many of us have holed up in worse places for a lot longer waiting out storms. As long as he is warm and dry that's what matters. He will be fine.

Posted

Man, the hike in there is so IN right now...you can *run* across the snow without crampons. I'd head out there for another go at it if I could just get the hell out of work. Is there a retreat (like a route he could rap) from the ledge he's on?

 

It sounds like he's going to do OK though. Keep at it, man!

Posted

From the sounds of it retreat/self rescue may not be a great option... My understanding is that Steph and Donn used the remaining "good" rope to climb to cell reception, so my suspicion is that he doesn't have enough gear to back off by himself. Anyway, keep hoping for that nice weather window tonight and tomorrow!!!

Posted

There are always "should have" and "what ifs" and "wish we'd" in every situation. When they airlifted Steve on Sunday, they left Jason with bivy gear, food and water, and a radio. They expected to be able to pick him off the mountain the next morning. However, the weather moved in quicker than expected, and it has been unsafe (despite numerous attempts each day) to even fly a chopper into the Pickets. For most of the time, there is no visability and high winds, and icy conditions on the route around Jason. As Jason is somewhat protected in his cave bivy, the best option is still to hold out for a weather window (all the chopper needs is about 1 hour of clearing) which appears to be coming within the next couple of days.

Posted
What I don't get is if they can drop him cookies how come they can't drop him a rope and some gear, or a friggin Hilti for that matter?

 

or at least a couple of tabs of blotter to help pass the time :toad:

Posted

I was thinking the same thing Pete but Steph is totally right... Hindsight is 20/20. I'd give the rescuers credit for having the smarts to get him the stuff they did given the seriousness of the rescue they were in the middle of performing at the time. Tomorrow will hopefully be a good day and they'll be able to at least fly a team into the cirque below, if not just be able to pluck him from where he's at :)

Posted (edited)

http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/148353.jpg

 

I imagine the rock will be wet and maybe snowy. But not

verglassed. Serious situation to climb up, but a good team

should be good to go on it.

 

Hope the weather gives a window for a direct lift.

 

This says a strong party can make it to the base in one

long hard day. Can be done, but not much gas left for

a rescue, especially carrying extra rescue gear, the

weight. Would need the strongest climbers.

Maybe mules(hikers not real mules) to carry the extra weight and the rescue climbers go light? To have more energy

for the buttress.

 

Say a prayer.

 

Dan

 

 

Edited by DanO
Posted

They started staging a heli rescue this morning at 6. Here's hoping for the best.

Plan B is for 3 Cascade and 3 Rainer NPS Rescuers to get dropped off at the base of the climb later today. This looks like the only window for next several days.

Posted

Its cool they dropped him off snacks while he was up there. It must have been like room service at 8000 feet. I probably would have ordered melon wrapped with prosciutto for an hors devours. Man those are delicious.

Posted
Time to start the JASON SCHILLING EMERGENCY BEER FUND.

 

Seriously, someone buy that guy a beer when he gets home.

 

Not a beer. More like a case or a keg :)

 

Great news!!!

Posted

Hello everyone: I would like to express my profound gratitude to Jason, Donn, and Steph for doing what had to be done in order to get me off of the mountain safely,and thanks that the rescue turned out well and Jason is back with us. To Jason, I am especially grateful. His willingness to sacrifice personal comfort and safety ensured my speedy rescue. I literally owe him my life. I can not remember anything about the fall, but I can remember Jason’s kind and reassuring words before the helo hauled me away. From my standpoint the rescue went well. From fall to hospital was less than six hours, and was executed quickly efficiently, and safely. Thank You.

Posted

Wow! Huge props to all involved, for quick thinking and successful execution. Glad Steve is safe and healing up. And a thumbs up to Jason for the patience in waiting this thing out.

 

Tell you what, you all can buy *us* a round of beers once Hollywood comes knocking to purchase the film rights. ;)

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