Cleaning at Index

[catbirdseat]

To escape the Toxic Shock crowd yesterday, we scurried around the corner to "Happy Puppy" 5.9 and "Who Put the Purr in My Pussy" 5.8 and were well rewarded with two fun climbs.

 

The chimney section of "Happy Puppy" was so sparkly clean! Must have been recently scrubbed? Thanks to whoever put in the hard work. The finish is dirty but don't let that stop you from checking out this fine line.

 

"Who Put the Purr in My Pussy" was in decent shape. It looks dirtier than it really is. We didn't encounter any loose rock(the guidebook warns of loose flakes near the top). Both climbs share a rap station(slings w/biners around a tree).

 

Anyone been on "Behind the Eightball" (200 ft past Toxic Shock")recently? From the ground, this one looked pretty grimy.

For those interested in accessing these climbs, there is an inclined log you walk up and there there is one or two 5th class moves to the ledge where these climbs start. You might want to belay to get there. I thought the two climbs mentioned are quite good. Largest piece needed is 3.5 inches.

[mec]

"who put the purr in my pussy" is a fun climb. it would be a bit more popular if it had a bit easier access. recommended. glad to hear that it is relatively clean.

[catbirdseat]

I should think these climbs would get more visits if the trail were improved a bit. At present it is barely recognizable as a boot path. If this were at Squamish, there would be a knotted hand line leading up to the ledge. Is such a thing contrary to the local ethic?

[Sherri]

The Squamish Access Society certainly goes the extra mile.

 

Nice suggestion about a knotted line, CBS.

[thelawgoddess]

And why would we want more people at the crags???

 

Personally I would like to see things around here kept as "alpine" as possible. To me that's part of the charm. I don't think routes care how popular they are anyway.

 

And isn't route-finding just part of the game?

[catbirdseat]

I don't think routes care how popular they are anyway.

 

Climbers care if there is moss and dirt on routes. More boots equals less dirt.

[thelawgoddess]

I don't think routes care how popular they are anyway.

 

Climbers care if there is moss and dirt on routes. More boots equals less dirt.

 

Climbers who are afraid to get dirty!

[Sherri]

I cleaned "Index Air Force" 5.10a beside "Them" on the wall of 10,000 insects with Argus and BHerc yesterday.

 

It's in good shape and a lot of fun, even in approach shoes.

 

We checked this one out yesterday...it sure packs a lot of punch for a such short climb!(Approach shoes??? ) We saw Argus there putting the finishing touches on it and, thanks to his suggestion, we also had a fun romp up "Peanuts to Serve You", a 60ft 5.9 only few minutes further up the trail.

 

Thanks again for all the cleaning! :kisss:

[Argus]

Eraserhead 11b and Imagine Your Best Student Here 11a on Private Idaho are now clean as well.

Edited July 22, 2009 by Argus

[sparkytheflash]

Its amazing there is even things that can be cleaned at the lower wall. On sat the 10th while climbing tatoosh I noticed a .75 lieback crack splitting off chris' tatoosh(probably part of the original tatoosh) it leads right into the top of the original end to tatoosh with a handcrack in the back of an offwidth. Really cool. The only problem was there was a series of trees growing out of the .75 crack. My buddy Dave Elder loaned me his old iceaxe, an 8" camping saw, he gave me a mega power belay and I went to town. It was late and I worked for about 2hrs. I got all of the bushes out and trundled 3 or 4 blocks that came from behind the bushes. I still have to sweep the route and brush the feet and sweep off the ledges on tatoosh. I tried to blow most of the ledges enough to give climbers the capability to grab rock without too much dust on them and tried to blow off the feet. It was getting dark so i wasn't able to do as good of a job as I wanted to. I'm hoping to get back there later this week and finish the job. Sorry if I cause anyone a sketchy send on tatoosh sun or Mon. The amount of dirt that came out of those bushes changed the landscape at the base of tatoosh and thin fingers a bit. Oh I also have to go back and either sawsall or chip out a stump out of the crack. Someone years ago chopped the 1" in diameter trees off but left the stump. I think when all is said and done it will be a fine 9+ or 10a. I hope everyone enjoys it.

 

Dave Back

 

[Off_White]

Ever use a leaf blower to clean off the wall post scrubbing? Highly recommended, though dangling with hot two stroke engines is not all that fun.

[counterfeitfake]

I saw the dirt from your cleaning on Sunday!

 

I think the thing you're working on is what the Cummins book lists as Tatoosh. I climbed it once, it was doable and dirty. 5.9 seemed about right. We'd intended to continue up for 5 pitches to get to the "top" of the LTW but when looking at the blackberries and shrubs above, we rapped.

[Sherri]

I'd like to check out Avenging the Goddess Kring next time I'm up at Rattle Tale. It doesn't appear to be getting much traffic but looks like a fun line.

 

A couple questions:

1)Has anyone been on it recently? Last year, I heard folks talking about a hornets nest being at the top and I'm wondering if it is back. I don't want to chance running into it(I'm very allergic).

 

2)The Cramer guidebook mentions doing one double-rope rappel to reach the ground from the anchor on P2. Would a single 70m make it from this anchor, or is there an intermediate rap station at the P1 belay?

 

3)Is the variation on the right(Chasin' the Lizard) as good or better than the ATGK line on the left? Judging by the grunge at the bottom, looks like the Lizard start is done more often.

 

Looking forward to doing my part to add some traffic to these non-LTW gems. Thanks!

 

 

Also, we were up near Private Idaho last week and did a couple laps on Index Air Force and Them. These are great, short climbs which are worth seeking out. They are still clean from their recent scrubbing(thanks Argus!) but the cobwebs and pine needles suggest they could use more traffic. Bring some new webbing for the rap tree on top of Air Force or traverse the ledge to use the rap chains on Them.

 

 

[boadman]

Ryu & I did that route & Rattle-tail this spring. AGK is pretty awesome, and the last "12a" pitch is actually pretty doable, not too much harder than Kite Flying Blind. I knocked off one little hornets nest on the 3rd pitch, and Ryu did some serious black berry excavation on the second pitch. I didn't notice a hornets nest on the second pitch. The first 20 feet of the first pitch could use a good scrub. I liked it almost as much as Rattle-tail, I think the little traverse at the top of the first pitch is one of the classic 5.10 moves at Index.

 

One 70 gets you down to the top of a big block from the top of the second pitch. You have to down climb some easy 3rd class to get back to the base. Put knots in the end of your rope!

[orion_sonya]

Definitely a fun line.

 

Jumped on it early in the season and there was no sign of a hornets nest.

 

We were able to do two raps from the top with a 70M rope - p3 to p2 to ground. The last rap put us on a ledge that required easy scrambling down some downed trees/boulders.

 

We did the left line and although it was scruffy at the start, climbed pretty and protected nicely. A #5 WC was really useful to walk up the wide crack, but there are other gear options if you don't have a big piece. This pitch could use a little brush love though... The line to the right looked from too. It's nice to have options.

 

Orion

[Sherri]

Sweet! Thanks Broadman and Orion. I'm stoked to check it out next time.

[Jopa]

Has anyone been up to Shady Lane recently? I was thinking about checking out that crag in a week or two and wondered how much cleaning it would require. I know that it was cleaned in May 2009 but wasn't sure how quickly the moss reclaims the rock...

[Sherri]

Has anyone been up to Shady Lane recently? I was thinking about checking out that crag in a week or two and wondered how much cleaning it would require. I know that it was cleaned in May 2009 but wasn't sure how quickly the moss reclaims the rock...

 

There was some talk about Shady Lane on this thread(scroll to Fenderfour's post near bottom of page):

Shady Lane discussion

[Jopa]

Thank you! I would have never known there was useful information in that thread :-)

[Sherri]

Thank you! I would have never known there was useful information in that thread :-)

Sometimes it's a needle in the haystack.

Edited August 10, 2010 by Sherri

[summitchaserCJB]

ya. haha.

[sparkytheflash]

For all those who love all apologies to Walter B. At index, there is a direct start that has been cleaned. Its still a little sandy in at least one spot but as people climb it that will get taken care of. I lead it yesterday after cleaning it and I felt the gear was solid and I typically place too much gear. Its also a great direct start for quary crack but the upper portion still needs to be cleaned for quary. I'd say this direct start goes at about 10-. Enjoy!

 

Dave

[Sherri]

Checked out K Cliff for the first time yesterday. Thanks to those who put in the effort on the cleaning/anchors etc--the place looks great and is packed with fun mixed lines. Our favorites were Special K(5.8+) and Spring Fall(10a).

 

The crag makes a nice complement to a Toxic Shock outing.

 

You can find the new, updated topo to K Cliff in the Sky Valley forum on rcnw.net

[LilWing]

LEFT AT THE RAIL SPIKE ANCHORS ON GNS:

I left my favorite purple, pRana beanie on the ground/ledge at the anchors on GNS on 9/15. If you have found it please pm me!

Thanks in advance - B

[RuMR]

And why would we want more people at the crags???

 

Personally I would like to see things around here kept as "alpine" as possible. To me that's part of the charm. I don't think routes care how popular they are anyway.

 

And isn't route-finding just part of the game?

do you even climb anymore???