Argus Posted June 12, 2009 Posted June 12, 2009 There is a route to the left of Magic Fern that is a LFC. I recall it is a 5.9. It's got salal and blackberries growing out of it. If it were cleaned, would it be any good? I assume you're talking about Wet Dream. I cleaned this route 2 years ago only to find ferns and blackberries growing out of it 2 months later. I have never seen it dry, so it's probably not worth the effort. If it were clean and dry, it would be fun though. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 12, 2009 Posted June 12, 2009 Well, Wet Dream was dry yesterday. It hasn't rained in 24 days, or so I've heard. As I said, we need to use herbicide to kill the roots, then the growth won't come back for a while. Quote
Argus Posted June 12, 2009 Posted June 12, 2009 Have at it. If I recall correctly, there is no anchor on this climb and it requires a bit of schwacking to get to the top of the cliff. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 12, 2009 Posted June 12, 2009 It's becoming clearer the reasons why this route is in the state it is in. Presence of an anchor might increase the traffic, and/or the number of people willing to clean it each year. It really does look like an appealing line. Quote
lancegranite Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 It's nice to see stewardship efforts at such a great area. Don't just buy them a beer, go help them scrub! Beer tastes great with a hint of moss and dirt in your mouth. I reccomend the soft sided 6 pack cooler for all day freshness. Quote
DRep Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 It's nice to see stewardship efforts at such a great area. Don't just buy them a beer, go help them scrub! Beer tastes great with a hint of moss and dirt in your mouth. I reccomend the soft sided 6 pack cooler for all day freshness. For those of you interested in Rewarding us. Argus likes anything with alcohol. Drep likes PBR. FenderFour likes Tall boys of crappy beer. Any donations will be gladdly accepted and can be left at the anchors on top of Hag Crag. I will probably be up at Hag Crag Monday morning, if anyone wants to join! Quote
Pete_H Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 Anyone know if there's an on-line topo to Private Idaho. I couldn't find one on the Cummins site. Quote
Choada_Boy Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 On a related note, we watched a second on the lower town wall, upper right, pull a block off from on high and almost nail a party below them on Sunday afternoon. We had a good view of the whole thing from the RR tracks, could have been very ugly. Second fell and the block came with him, while he shit his pant no doubt. Looked like the leader below had to backtrack and check to see if his ropes got nailed. Not sure what climbs they were on but it happened right of the giant manky corner. Maybe Narrow Arrow and Bob and Doris? Quote
mountainmatt Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 That was most likely us up on the quarry. We were a team of three and when my friend was seconding he pulled a huge block out that came very close to hitting me down below. We were all ok, but if you are doing any of the routes over the quarry, be careful, there is a lot of loose rock over there. Quote
fenderfour Posted June 15, 2009 Author Posted June 15, 2009 Anyone know if there's an on-line topo to Private Idaho. I couldn't find one on the Cummins site. I don't think there is. Sky Valley rock has a good topo of the area. Quote
Choada_Boy Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 I think there was a party to your left as well when he pulled it off. What route were you on? Quote
mountainmatt Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 I doubt there was anyone to our left, as the next routes over are the death chimneys (additionally we never saw or heard another person up there all day, however there were lots of people over by Thin fingers). If there was someone there that we somehow didn't see, the rock fall was in no way intentional and we are sorry if it came close to you (I sure as hell didn't like it coming withing feet of me!) Quote
Jopa Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 Anyone know if there's an on-line topo to Private Idaho. I couldn't find one on the Cummins site. I was able to find all of the routes by glancing at mountain project. There is also a topo of the surrounding crags in relation to the town here. 'Magic Fern' is the first route you encounter along the trail, followed by 'Battered Sandwich', and then 'Senior Citizens in Space'. These three routes are within ~30 feet of each other. Apparently there is another 5.9 up the hill from Senior Citizens but we didn't check it out. Quote
Crillz Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 There are more routes than that, but they looked pretty dirty on Sunday. The upper pitch of Magic Fern is even a little crappy. Get someone to scan page 226 out of the book for you. Quote
Choada_Boy Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 You were the guy in the red jacket, then, if it fell behind you. I bet you're glad you'd left your anchor when you did. Quote
olyclimber Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 well that would take money out of the pocket of a guidebook author! what tools would be most useful on these routes? wire brush? shovel? crowbar? Quote
lancegranite Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 My standard heavy duty dirt work kit looks like this: Shemag scarf with safety glasses or ski goggles, lame second best: particle mask. [img:left]http://www.shermansurvival.com/novedades07/varios/shemag.gif[/img] [img:center]http://cdn.dickblick.com/items/349/13/34913-1050-2ww-m.jpg[/img] Thin crack tools: Drywall saw, Nut tool [img:left]http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/284216_front200.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/gear/products/9/7729-medium_2023L.jpg[/img] Hand and finger cracks, bolt replacement: Estwing 22oz pointed tip geology hammer Brushes: PLASTIC, not wooden, wire brushes w/ scraper: Wisk broom W/ chopped handle: Large time dirt removal, death block removal& trail work king:Pulaski! Hands down the best trail work tool ever! Distant second best, GI entrenching tool [img:left]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21yX4Is5X6L._SL500_AA280_.jpg[/img] Oh yeah, 10.5mm low strech(static) ropes, not your old worn out dynamic rope. Get real!!! all day jugging and high angle work deserve proper, dedicated work ropes. Do a good job and clean up your mess after you finish. [img:left]http://www.karcherresidential.com/en/images/subpages/rushmore_bottom.jpg[/img] Quote
mattp Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 There is a route to the left of Magic Fern that is a LFC. I recall it is a 5.9. It's got salal and blackberries growing out of it. If it were cleaned, would it be any good? I assume you're talking about Wet Dream. I cleaned this route 2 years ago only to find ferns and blackberries growing out of it 2 months later. I have never seen it dry, so it's probably not worth the effort. If it were clean and dry, it would be fun though. My experience has been that if you clean a crack repeatedly a couple of times it tends to last. The blackberries and ferns eventually give up if they don't get a chance to grow leaves and feed their roots and the residual dirt and other stuff that begets more dirt and other stuff lessens with repeated cleaning. Quote
fenderfour Posted June 16, 2009 Author Posted June 16, 2009 We haven't scrubbed the second pitch of Magic Fern. It will take a shovel, a few wire brushes and a broom to clean it up. The route above Private Idaho is called "Peanuts to Serve You" near Bobcat Cringe. It's worth the 5 minute walk. Quote
Pete_H Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 Thanks for the link, but I was hoping for some more detail to see what other neglected classics there may be up there. The Magic Fern is a pretty cool climb. It looks harder than 5.9, but its only 5.9. Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 It is harder than 5.9 for the first two moves off the ground. I guess like at Joshua Tree, the start doesn't count against the rating. Quote
Pete_H Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 It is harder than 5.9 for the first two moves off the ground. I guess like at Joshua Tree, the start doesn't count against the rating. I wouldn't go that far. Not like EB GB's with a 5.11+ start to a 5.10 climb with a rating of .10d. If the start is harder than 5.9 its only 2 feet off the deck! Quote
Crack Posted June 17, 2009 Posted June 17, 2009 Other easy/moderates there at the Private Idaho that are very much worth doing would include the second pitch of Curious Poses and Instanbul (which I remember being wider than a "handcrack" for me). Sure, a little dirtier than say Godzilla but certainly nothing to keep you away. I saw another thread/post somewhere recently about the K-Cliff -more quality pitches for the mortal whiners like myself! Quote
olyclimber Posted June 17, 2009 Posted June 17, 2009 There is a route to the left of Magic Fern that is a LFC. I recall it is a 5.9. It's got salal and blackberries growing out of it. If it were cleaned, would it be any good? I assume you're talking about Wet Dream. I cleaned this route 2 years ago only to find ferns and blackberries growing out of it 2 months later. I have never seen it dry, so it's probably not worth the effort. If it were clean and dry, it would be fun though. lol we saw this on the list of cleaned climbs and it had many large green things growing out of it. we thought maybe a practical joke was being played by putting it on the "cleaned" list? jerf ripped them all out and climbed it on TR. It was dry as of tonight! But then we are 28 days without rain (almost a record I believe) and of course it is going to rain any day...so it won't be dry for long. All the vegetation is gone from it except at the very bottom. I'm thinking of dipping into CC.com funds and going up and replacing the webbing on the rap anchors (bolts) for that immediate crag with chains. Quote
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