Newest bolted line at ozone

[G-spotter]

when women dress nicely, they don't deserve to get raped.

but if she takes that burqa off, the bitch is fair game?

 

[letsroll]

For the record I am not a route setter. Not qualified to be a bolter, don't really want to deal with it. Very happy to climb routes that are put up.

 

Saying that ego is part of bitching about some one bolting the route you though of is right and why not. It should be. He put in the work, he should have the right to bold it. He should be the first to climb it. Now if he bolted it and did not indicate it was a project that is another story. How would some one know it had yet to be climbed. I also ass-u-me that this route was not sitting idle for any length of time, lets say over several months.

 

It would be nice to hear from the offenders but I doubt they will chime in. Both sides of the story sort of thing.

[kevbone]

It is rated 11.a and he is calling it "just for kicks".

[letsroll]

It is rated 11.a and he is calling it "just for kicks".

 

Bolter might say, he/she bolted it "just for kicks"

[Phil K]

I'm thinkin of puttin one of them Via Ferrati things up there, anyone mind?

[letsroll]

figure you would say, drill baby drill

[billcoe]

It is rated 11.a and he is calling it "just for kicks".

 

Can someone clue me in who HE in this sentence above?

 

Btw, my response above was done while sitting in the valley...it was hard to get yoinked about anything. Really, I feel for Martins dad and didn't mean to downplay it. I suspect that if someone went up and lets say, rappelled down, cleaned and slammed in a line of pins 4 feet apart to get up and finish Menopause, JH might have a different feeling. If I was rolling loose stuff and shoveling dirt off a crack thinking a line took pro or might go all gear/NO bolts, and it then got bolted without anyone mentioning it to me or trying it without them, I would feel significantly different than if I was planning on bolting something and someone did that very thing before me. Totally and radically different feeling. I'd be a tad annoyed one way, but a horrible, angry, pissed off feeling the other. Probably depends how much time I had invested as well.

 

But that's me.

 

So who jumped in front of the line here and what do they say about it? Name?

[RuMR]

For the record I am not a route setter. Not qualified to be a bolter, don't really want to deal with it. Very happy to climb routes that are put up.

 

Saying that ego is part of bitching about some one bolting the route you though of is right and why not. It should be. He put in the work, he should have the right to bold it. He should be the first to climb it. Now if he bolted it and did not indicate it was a project that is another story. How would some one know it had yet to be climbed. I also ass-u-me that this route was not sitting idle for any length of time, lets say over several months.

 

It would be nice to hear from the offenders but I doubt they will chime in. Both sides of the story sort of thing.

totally different in europe...

[LostCamKenny]

 

However, it doesn't surprise me that some yahoo didn't follow the grail. What did you expect to happen when you put a gym on the side of the Columbia River and than give everyone the map to the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow?????

 

You think this is some wack...just wait, its only going to get worse.

 

-promise

 

 

Well said. This is just the beginning. That whole place isn't designed to accept the amount of traffic that it is going to see this summer.

[billcoe]

Someone said Tymon (or possible spelling Thymon) jumped to the head of the line, took cuts and bolted this route. Anyone ask him about this?

 

 

[JosephH]

I suspect that if someone went up and lets say, rappelled down, cleaned and slammed in a line of pins 4 feet apart to get up and finish Menopause, JH might have a different feeling.

 

Bill, don't confuse me doing a little dishing back to Kevin so he gets a taste of what he dishes out in a thread he cares about with what I might really feel about what actually happened. As for Menopause, it's in a world of it's own and can easily defend itself.

[denalidave]

Fun route, but if my fat ass can make it up with relative ease (on tr) it cant be 5.11a (IMHO). Felt like solid 10b/c ish to me. Just my two cents.

 

 

[pink]

[Farrgo]

I'm not sure we should be kicking around potential names unless its firmly been established who did it. That being said, Martin's dad cleaned up a nice route. I agree with Dave its a great moderate addition to that end of the crag.

[kevbone]

Just to set the record straight. Tymun bolted it. He did not know anyone had cleaned it prior to adding bolts. Martin and his dad are not outraged. Martin is taking this in strides and is moving on. So am in.

 

Cheers!

[billcoe]

Just to set the record straight. Tymun bolted it. He did not know anyone had cleaned it prior to adding bolts. Martin and his dad are not outraged. Martin is taking this in strides and is moving on. So am in.

 

Cheers!

 

Ahhhh. Ok then. Thank for the whole story. So my first post was spot on the money and we can go back to talking about El Cap:-) .

Nice.

 

_________________________________________________________

 

JH, now that's funny! Put an extra burr or 2 under the saddle and see what happens.

 

_________________________________________________________

 

[billcoe]

BTW, I once helped retrobolt a line I'd done a ground up FA 20 years earlier with nothing but gear: thinking I was doing a new route. Forgot all about the first time. The guy who belayed me the first go round clued us (me and the new belayer) in to both the correct name of the route and who the FA party was to my deep embarrassment @a week later.

 

So I don't have room to talk shit about anyone.

 

I still chuckle over it though!

[Off_White]

That's a great story Bill.

[kevbone]

Climbed the new route in question today. We all thought it was solid 10.c.