G-spotter Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 when women dress nicely, they don't deserve to get raped. but if she takes that burqa off, the bitch is fair game? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 For the record I am not a route setter. Not qualified to be a bolter, don't really want to deal with it. Very happy to climb routes that are put up. Saying that ego is part of bitching about some one bolting the route you though of is right and why not. It should be. He put in the work, he should have the right to bold it. He should be the first to climb it. Now if he bolted it and did not indicate it was a project that is another story. How would some one know it had yet to be climbed. I also ass-u-me that this route was not sitting idle for any length of time, lets say over several months. It would be nice to hear from the offenders but I doubt they will chime in. Both sides of the story sort of thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 It is rated 11.a and he is calling it "just for kicks". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 It is rated 11.a and he is calling it "just for kicks". Bolter might say, he/she bolted it "just for kicks" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil K Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 I'm thinkin of puttin one of them Via Ferrati things up there, anyone mind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 figure you would say, drill baby drill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 It is rated 11.a and he is calling it "just for kicks". Can someone clue me in who HE in this sentence above? Btw, my response above was done while sitting in the valley...it was hard to get yoinked about anything. Really, I feel for Martins dad and didn't mean to downplay it. I suspect that if someone went up and lets say, rappelled down, cleaned and slammed in a line of pins 4 feet apart to get up and finish Menopause, JH might have a different feeling. If I was rolling loose stuff and shoveling dirt off a crack thinking a line took pro or might go all gear/NO bolts, and it then got bolted without anyone mentioning it to me or trying it without them, I would feel significantly different than if I was planning on bolting something and someone did that very thing before me. Totally and radically different feeling. I'd be a tad annoyed one way, but a horrible, angry, pissed off feeling the other. Probably depends how much time I had invested as well. But that's me. So who jumped in front of the line here and what do they say about it? Name? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 For the record I am not a route setter. Not qualified to be a bolter, don't really want to deal with it. Very happy to climb routes that are put up. Saying that ego is part of bitching about some one bolting the route you though of is right and why not. It should be. He put in the work, he should have the right to bold it. He should be the first to climb it. Now if he bolted it and did not indicate it was a project that is another story. How would some one know it had yet to be climbed. I also ass-u-me that this route was not sitting idle for any length of time, lets say over several months. It would be nice to hear from the offenders but I doubt they will chime in. Both sides of the story sort of thing. totally different in europe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 However, it doesn't surprise me that some yahoo didn't follow the grail. What did you expect to happen when you put a gym on the side of the Columbia River and than give everyone the map to the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow????? You think this is some wack...just wait, its only going to get worse. -promise Well said. This is just the beginning. That whole place isn't designed to accept the amount of traffic that it is going to see this summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Someone said Tymon (or possible spelling Thymon) jumped to the head of the line, took cuts and bolted this route. Anyone ask him about this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 I suspect that if someone went up and lets say, rappelled down, cleaned and slammed in a line of pins 4 feet apart to get up and finish Menopause, JH might have a different feeling. Bill, don't confuse me doing a little dishing back to Kevin so he gets a taste of what he dishes out in a thread he cares about with what I might really feel about what actually happened. As for Menopause, it's in a world of it's own and can easily defend itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Fun route, but if my fat ass can make it up with relative ease (on tr) it cant be 5.11a (IMHO). Felt like solid 10b/c ish to me. Just my two cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 I'm not sure we should be kicking around potential names unless its firmly been established who did it. That being said, Martin's dad cleaned up a nice route. I agree with Dave its a great moderate addition to that end of the crag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share Posted May 22, 2009 Just to set the record straight. Tymun bolted it. He did not know anyone had cleaned it prior to adding bolts. Martin and his dad are not outraged. Martin is taking this in strides and is moving on. So am in. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 Just to set the record straight. Tymun bolted it. He did not know anyone had cleaned it prior to adding bolts. Martin and his dad are not outraged. Martin is taking this in strides and is moving on. So am in. Cheers! Ahhhh. Ok then. Thank for the whole story. So my first post was spot on the money and we can go back to talking about El Cap:-) . Nice. _________________________________________________________ JH, now that's funny! Put an extra burr or 2 under the saddle and see what happens. _________________________________________________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 BTW, I once helped retrobolt a line I'd done a ground up FA 20 years earlier with nothing but gear: thinking I was doing a new route. Forgot all about the first time. The guy who belayed me the first go round clued us (me and the new belayer) in to both the correct name of the route and who the FA party was to my deep embarrassment @a week later. So I don't have room to talk shit about anyone. I still chuckle over it though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 That's a great story Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 23, 2009 Author Share Posted May 23, 2009 Climbed the new route in question today. We all thought it was solid 10.c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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